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RobPhoboS

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Everything posted by RobPhoboS

  1. It's all ££££ is the short answer. Top of the engine makes the power (intake, cams, valve springs, head & porting etc), guts of the engine supports it (crank, pistons etc). Sasha's engine build is similar to Michael Gardners. Read that article a few times, check out the NA build threads on the US forums, and it'll start to click. Honestly, just reading and reading will help, as you'll just be asking the same things that have been asked a whole bunch already (unfortunately) for years and years. There's nothing wrong with that IF you're actually going to do it, so many people ask this stuff 100's of times and suddenly realise it's bloody expensive. http://my350z.com/forum/na-builds-498/ His FW is about 7kg. http://www.350z-uk.c...nc-smf-350z-de/
  2. It's possibly the greatest track in the world. The ring is mental, and not exactly normal
  3. https://www.youtube.com/user/nismotv2013/videos I had no idea there was a Nismo channel, they put up some really decent racing content, including the full coverage of endurance races around the world ! So if you get bored like I do at work AND can watch youtube.... https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wmLdnnjC0q4 (I probably missed the thread with this already on it, I know it )
  4. I got my ones from Driftworks. (doesn't look like they do them anymore??? - I notice that lot's of stuff isn't sold by them now) https://www.cl-brakes.co.uk/race-brake-pads/nissan/nissan-350-z-cl-brakes-race-brake-pads-2002-09.html Double check that's the correct fitting.
  5. Cool, I'll be keeping a close eye on how you get on as I'll be doing cams/springs/manifold at the end of the year I think. (Not really wanting to but have a feeling I'll be doing some maintenance in the guts)
  6. I see you've gone for C2's Is there any clearance issues with them, or have you had to do something I've totally missed.
  7. Nope, do it regularly depending on pad material. More aggressive pads like the ones I'm on don't really like the DD driving, thus the transfer layer gets wiped off and needs to be plopped on again. Plus it's free to try it. Note - I didn't say it's what your problem IS, just that it's the quickest easiest thing to try out FIRST
  8. On the 350z I've used: Yellow Stuff DS2500 CL RC5+ (current pads) All on standard discs but had them Skimmed by Marcus, Hostechnik lines and TYP200 fluid. I've only just briefly used the RC5+ on track but they get used on the road 90% of the time. They are very noisy when not bedded in, which is due to being stuck in London a lot of the time. They are probably dusty but I don't know as my wheels are Plastidipped in matte gun metal, so I don't bother cleaning them. The stopping power is immense and feel is the best I've tried so far. I didn't like the DS2500's, when they got hot the drop off in stopping power was instantly noticeable, which coincides with their temp graph anyway, others like them but I don't, they felt mushy as well - note normal discs, not grooved etc The Yellow Stuff felt nicer than the DS2500's and didn't have a sharp drop off in stopping power when hot. For the price, they are fine for DD. If you're getting pulsing/noise - just bed them in (look at the sticky post for that) first to see if it's not just that. Whip the wheels off, get a small wire brush and ensure that all mating surfaces are clean, including the rear of your wheels.
  9. Ah yeah These are forum sponsors, recommended ! Horsham Developments Abbey Motorsport Kaizer Motor And also get good comments is TGM Sport in Fleet (probably closest): http://www.tgmsport.co.uk
  10. Updated with the Super Pro bushings, note Yellow Stuff pads provisionally sold pending payment
  11. Well I know you're new - but remember this, whatever question you have, 90% of the time has already been asked So definitely search and try and help yourself first, the best way I've found to search on this forum and plenty of others is using google like this (copy and past it into the address bar if using Chrome): site:350z-uk.com track pads Just change the search term(s) to whatever you want.
  12. After it's resprayed, windscreen chips sorted - get a decent PPF on it. Will cost of course but it's the ONLY solution.
  13. Good post above, and a universal thing with cars I've found.. once they get to around 80k, stuff starts needing replacing one after the other generally. Usually not major but suspension, bushings, battery etc. Whatever you do, when you get it - just cough up the money and do a full service on it, no matter what the owner said (within common sense reason of course hah). Decent tyres, spark plugs, all fluids (brake, diff, gearbox, engine, coolant), inspect brake pads, discs, power steering fluid etc etc Don't settle on the first one, there are loads so be patient.
  14. I was going to bid on this but bought a new pair as I need them before the weekend ideally. So over to you guys if you're struggling with noise restrictions on track days. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Decibel-Devil-Race-amp-Trackday-Car-Exhaust-Noise-Reducer-Fits-2-5-034-O-D-Tailpipe-/322434824456? I'll put a video up of the difference my exhaust makes but each car will be different, so don't expect it to be the same.
  15. I did my first track day in the snow... so anything is a bonus on that.
  16. Try contact cleaner on the maf first, better to remove it with the little torx bit (sorry can't remember specific one this second), obviously be careful with it. And just as a quick check, you're using super unleaded right ? (shell\bp) - not that it's particularly related.
  17. A couple of things to bare in mind... Wrapping the exhaust can trap moisture and increase oxidisation. Some people claim wrapping it makes the exhaust noisier or quieter (hah, bloody internet!). And as stated, it's usually only worth wrapping the manifolds... Don't bother (imho).
  18. TTT I also have a pair of Super Pro SPF2849K, caster adjustable compression arm bushings. I'll photo these tonight and add them in, they're used but absolutely fine to put into another compression arm.
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