RobPhoboS

The lesson I'm taking from this, get someone else to do it

Anything other than 'stock' is most likely better :wink:

Sorry to drop in the thread but just out of curiosity, the flexi's - are they smooth internally ? (I'm not even sure it makes a difference). I'm personally down for the stillen once I've finished sorting a few bits (but the CS lifetime warranty is bloody good !).

Heading there in a few months And the vids are great, excellent insight.

I bought one of these last night but ended up returning it, as I couldn't reach the front jacking point: http://www.diy.com/n...?skuId=11888233 Very light and constructed properly, and with my 'man maths' that it's only rated for 1ton I didn't mind...seeing as our cars are 52/48 weight distribution it would be fine for just getting it in the air for axle stands. The reach on it wasn't much better than the Sealey thing I have already have (1250cx), so I think I'll see what I can do with some planks of wood and bricks just for now. I'm still on the hunt as I don't really like the Sealey.

It was a mk2, rev 3. Gone to Belgium to a serious Toyota enthusiast. Being kept up-to-date on it's restoration I've got to find the post to help read the code from the flashes, and I'll see what I can see as well. I'm not sure the clip is long enough?

Hey guys, I've uploaded the video here - if you can't download it for some reason, please let me know: (I promise it's not dodgy :wink: ) http://www.wetransfe...15102854/d63b63 Many thanks again Mark, if the video above doesn't quite work out, I'll hopefully have a code from the diagnostic tool when it arrives. At least I'm learning, when I first popped the bonnet open I was terrified by what I saw (coming from an MR2) but now after getting a little 'hands on' I'm embracing it, if at a retarded pace

I took a quick video, I'll upload it when I get to work. I also bought a diagnostic tool from Amazon that should be here tomorrow (although I've no idea where it hooks up to the car yet ). It's on post #18 Basically I knew that I had the cables for 4,6 the wrong way around after seeing that photo, as when you look at it, it would seem the end one would go to 6 but it's actually for 4.

Love it. Need a decent job now

I reset the ECU earlier with the pedal dance BUT after coming back from a 15 min trip, I noticed that the CEL light has come back on. The car feels fine but I wonder if it's got anything to do with my car being decatted ? (I only mention this as Jez said it may come on after they did some work for me - although he said that would happen a few mins down the road)

Bugger looks like Costco don't sell those ones any more

Like the OP, I'm also after a jack that will reach the front and rear points, I just don't want to spend heaps on one at the moment. I know quite a few people have mentioned Costco, which I can get into with a friend down the road. Are there any other alternatives, brand\model specific would be great !

Fantastic, I'll give it a go in a moment. This forum is flipping amazing !

Ahhh Mark - bless you sir ! Your photo was EXACTLY the problem I had, just mixed up 4 and 6 Now to get rid of the yellow engine light, do I just do the ECU pedal tap dance ?

Hey Mark, many thanks for the reply I saw the numbers on some of the leads but a couple had perished. If looking head on at the engine, what are the corresponding numbers for the coil packs ? (I'll just go out there now and get some photo's, as it may help others if they've attempted this and cocked up as well )

Right the problem is still there. The yellow engine light it on (came on the other night after firing it up the first time), does it require an ECU reset now ? I still need to 'pull the coil pack connectors off one at a time' - I presume you mean the grey connector ? (I presume you'd do this to figure out if the spark plug is knackered ?) I also inspected the coilpacks, I could only see the spring inside all of them, no 'pin' that I could see.

Ah that's what is causing the oil on the threads ? I shan't be doing that myself, I'll take it to one of the garages Well I've just taken all of the left side plugs out, one of them had a tiny bit of foil (wtf) between the tip and connector. They all had a bit of oil on the threads which I'm guessing is caused by that rocker cover ? It does look a bit oily down the right side near the dip stick, not horrendous but definitely signs around that height (pics coming). (definitely a LOT faster this time around doing it, much easier now despite the snow )

Come on, I know one of you lot saved the pics

Hey Alex, Many thanks for the tips, going out there again in a moment. I just found these numbers for torque settings with the plugs (if anyone is interested): Spark plug: : 24.5 N·m (2.5 kg-m, 18 ft-lb)

Head torch is knackered, so I've given up and battle will commence in the morning now. I did quickly inspect the connections, they all seem fine, and nothing has been accidentally left out. I'm wondering if perhaps the first couple I put in, if they are tight enough ? When I was using the ratchet I was just going until it wasn't easy anymore, so not over tightened but the first ones may be looser. Here are some snaps of the spark plugs: New/old The one on the right is from the rear, both rear ones looked like that and the rest were like the one on the left. They were changed about 21,000 miles ago.

Many thanks guys, I'll be gearing up to head into the cold shortly (at this time of night on a sunday - argh fooking hung over) I'm fairly certain I've not got anything mixed up with the wires as they are soo short and flex back to their original positions. Hopefully I can sort it out but what a pain !

Hey guys, I changed my spark plugs yesterday, and after firing the car up it sounded quite different (actually a bit like a v8 ) and was vibrating a bit more than normal. I'm guessing it's likely I've not got one tightened up enough, or a coil pack isn't properly pushed down. So I'm gonna have to go out there in a while and sort this tonight (only car I have) The only thing I did which was a mistake was disconnecting what looked like a fuel line on the left side of the engine, just above the last spark plug area. And I unclamped another hose towards the front on the left side again, which seemed to have a little bit of oil in it. (I'll get some pictures) That was the only issue I have with the guides, it didn't show which other pipes you can disconnect.

They look excellent, suit the car very nicely ! What are the tyre sizes ?

Good god I just did this. Probably the worst DIY thing I've done on a car (sparkies on the back banks were pretty rounded and smooth, will get a pic)

Swinging it back round on topic... This camera looks pretty good actually, and a decent price to boot. For my particular needs its the rolling shutter comparisons that I'm interested in when it comes to camera vs camera. But that's hugely specific to me and what I'd be doing to the footage.