Sly@Kaizer Motor

Thanks for the kind words, I'm glad to hear you are happy with the service you received. See you next time

ECU reset will only work if the fault is past and not current. It is cause by a design fault (the terminals inside are not tight enough so the resistance goes up and ECU register an open circuit). The cheapest (and the bullet-proof) solution is to cut the connectors out of the circuit and just soldering the wires together (make sure wires are not swapped), but you will need to cut/re-solder them if you need to remove the seats for any reason.

Yes it's normal DOT.4 brake fluid. If it's went below the MIN than you may have a slight leak (Sometimes it's not going to leave any drops on the driveway as it's only a small amount of leak over long time.) Get it checked underneath and definitely get it flushed next service. (Make sure the garage do it properly and not just sucking and filling the reservoir as most dealers do )

It's only happening due to low voltage in the system. Fully charge or replace your battery and it will be back to normal. Make sure your battery has a good capacity after charging (most garages has equipment to actually measure this).Otherwise disconnecting the switches will not make difference as all these functions controlled by your BCM and/or IPDM computers and they won't work properly under 10.5V. I hope this helped a little bit .

Personally I would not pay a penny for extended warranty. In my experience (18 years in Nissan dealerships) if something goes wrong it will be the case of : " Sorry Sir that is not covered because.....".

Normal OBD reader will not read faults for SRS system. Have it checked by a specialist who can read past and present faults on the Airbags, before replacing any expensive parts. If you are lucky it's only need some wiring repair.

Thanks Olly, I'm glad you are happy with the service you received. See you next time.

Caster will not cause any pulling to left or right. The front camber's are out of spec, but the difference between them is within 0.15' and it will always pulling to the less negative side anyway (in your case to the right). I would say from the alignment: you are having problem with your tyres (try to swap them with another car if possible) or your suspension need to be checked carefully for any worn bushes (like banana arm one) to make sure they not alter the settings while you are driving. It would be also good to know what is the SAI (STEERING AXIS INCLINATION) on your car as that would indicate any distorted suspension parts like hub or shocks etc...

There are some really good bearing suppliers if you know the size of them they may get it for much less.

I'm glad you got it sorted without spending money on it, thanks for the update

If it's only the 6th gear than it could be a syncro fault quite common on them. We've done a few rebuild because of this fault.

Gudzy, I didn't know if the sensor available from Alex thanks. (Will give him a call next time I have this problem.) Let us know if you have success with replacing it.

If pressure sensor is damaged or malfunctioning, you need to replace ESP/ABS actuator (pressure sensor it built in) regarding the service manual.

I'm not sure, he didn't say that. If that's including the parts than it's a different story.

Agree Mark, once you do the job do it properly. Otherwise Nissan's time is only guidance, but even if you spend the whole day on it £1000 in labour would be expensive in my opinion.

Official Nissan time for replace the timing chain/gear is around 4.8-5.4 hours (depend on engine type) plus parts. So labour you looking at £316-£356 at £55+VAT/hour rate not sure if they included the parts in that £1000, but sounds a bit expensive for me. Shop around a bit. (What a shame you are a bit far from us )

Key coding is £20 by us if you are close enought to Kent otherwise find a local Nissan specialist or your Dealer.

Hammer and hope that's all you need

Try a "pedal-dance" to reset it, but if it's on all the time it's might be a current fault. In that case need to read the fault code out and go on from that.

Depends on the condition of the rest of the car. If it's ok than I would get an other engine or short block and put it in.

There is one pedal sensor and two throttle sensors in the throttle body (for valve position feedback to ECU), all have different fault code and can cause the engine go in limp mode.

There was a series off faulty throttle valves you may have bought one. If it's coming up with the same fault you may also have a wiring fault between the sensor and the ECU. Try to find a specialist garage near to you with experience with diagnosis on Nissans.

PM sent.

Usually old radio's internal battery just doesn't work so some will ask code, some won't. So if you take the radio out it's a good idea to write down the numbers anyway

That's a fair price, they doesn't worth much more nowadays.( Used to be double, but recession came along )