Tinyflier

Saturday saw my first visit to the fabled Zed Shed where in the blistering heat Buster laboured hard (no... honestly he really did...!) to: 1) Remove front bumper and fit clear reflectors 2) Slide headlamps out and fit silvered indicator bulbs 3) Re-fit front splitter (this bonded at front, couple of small screws in wheel arch). Originally fitted by RT-Performance, I had removed it to paint it in Satin Black rather than standard finish gel coat - even though I say so myself I think I did a not half bad paint job on it too! 4) Fit the sidesteps I recently bought from Tarmac Sportz (which by the way are the absolutely BEST FRP mouldings I have ever seen with a superb external finish) All done in a couple of hours as I sat in the shade of the Zed Shed! Many thanks Buster, Chris and Kim - for your hard work and hospitality. David

Welcome from Reigate ... David

oooo... from where?.... David

I saw this car in RT's workshop as they were stripping it down for repairs and it was a shocking mess. The original pictures posted of the hit and run damage didn't show the real extent of the damage done. To get it back in a state that pleases the owner is absolutely outstanding professional bodyshop work. David

I was trying to find the helicopter with the big lights but couldn't find an image for it... maybe I was thinking of a different film? Am not a fan in general of daylight running lights as I think it makes it harder to judge approach speed - but that could just be my ageing eyes...! My view has always been if you need your lights ON to help others become aware of your presence then use the switch (ditto for indicators...) David Strange, the idea is to make it easier. Same reason why motorbikers have headlights on all the time, to make you see them faster. Personally, I like the looks, has nothing to do with the safety aspect. BUT, I don't like the ones in the OP's picture, reminds me of the fog lights on something like a jeep's bull bars. I think it is even harder to judge closing speed and distance when a motorbike has the headlamp on as there is only a single reference point that generally is bright enough to effectively hide the rider/bike. With a car you have two DRLS and there is a narrowing of the field between them as the vehicle approaches which may help but I still think it is overall harder to judge distance/speed in good ambient lighting conditions with DRLs. David

I was trying to find the helicopter with the big lights but couldn't find an image for it... maybe I was thinking of a different film? Am not a fan in general of daylight running lights as I think it makes it harder to judge approach speed - but that could just be my ageing eyes...! My view has always been if you need your lights ON to help others become aware of your presence then use the switch (ditto for indicators...) David

I have mine and some good offers in it! David

Mine are being fitted on Saturday... Will def post pics after. David

Thanks guys - thinking satin black... will give it a try.

Does the plenum need any special preparation to accept paint or is it just ensuring it is free from loose dust and such like? David

Understood. Is either PU adhesive or your method! Cheers.

Hi David, RT performance said to just put self taping screws in the ends by the wheel arch and bond under the centre but I don't like seeing the screws on the ends in the wheel arch. There is nowhere it will meet apart from on the far corners and that won't be enough to support it in my opinion Yes that was how they fitted mine which I removed to paint up. I don't mind the screws in the wheel arch but was trying to avoid bonding it at bumper bar in case I want to remove again in future for a paint refresh. Agree that screws at far corners won't support - which is why I was thinking of a few self tappers from underneath at the centre up to the bumper bar but if these two surfaces don't meet (which I think is what you are telling me) that won't work. Hmmmm think think think... David

Just pondering on the fitting... did you consider simply putting a few self tappers through the splitter into the bottom of the bumper bar - or don't they actually touch when fitted? David

I used The Wheel Specialist in East Grinstead - if your guys are as good as they are you will be very happy! David

My humble offering... CF engine cover, cooling panel and brace - thinking of simply painting my plenum in black wrinkle finish. David

Hi David, a bit of hard work and learning and I managed to get it to work! (plus a few trips to get the right bits and bobs!) as you can see in the pic I have just taken for you below I used the existing bolt hole holding the plastic undertray to the front bumper. managed to get hold of a couple of brackets, one on each side, about 6cm long, then used a nut and bolt into the splitter I also attached one in the centre... (which i screwed into the bottom of the bumper . for the rest, I didnt want to bond it to the front bumper so I used strong adhesive number plate mounts on the centre. hope this is of some use! Very interesting! Clever too! Thanks. David

I've just finished painting my front lip - hoe did you fasten yours to make it detachable? I have two screws (one each side into the wheel arch) but was simply going to bond the centre of the lip to my bumper bar with... Oh I don't know - just something sticky... David

Have supplied Benjy with some of my unused "stock" - lol - am thinking of becoming a retailer - that's two members supplied - David

I didn't think the Halfraud's stuff was removable though - well least not in the same way as Plastidip is. I could be wrong - it won't be the first time! David

Is only available on-line as far as I know. Either direct from company or Flea-bay. I have some you could have but I be we aren't close (Reigate, Surrey). David

You are thinking of "Plastidip" a liquid vinyl that is sprayed on and can (literally) be peeled off after. Various colours available although some of the colours are, anecdotally not all that good. It gives a matt and slightly textured/rubbery finish although there is a "glossifier" top spray available - not heard anyone comment about how effective that is. David

Nooooooo.... Satin black! David

Well done! Really couldn't figure out why mine fitted yet yours wouldn't! They do improve the front end in my opinion. David

No problem, will do that tomorrow evening and get it in post ASAP. PM me your address please. David

On the facelift you need to remove the painted slat covers. A bit of a pain but can be done by reaching down from the top through the hole where the bonnet catch is and unscrewing the screws. The Zunsport grille fits directly into the grille opening and you fix it by screwing through the grille directly into the plastic slats you revealed when you removed the painted covers. The Zunsport has 4 mounting guides on the back, can't really go wrong. David