Commander

Fodder: But you kept the shares, at which point you moved from share save in to being a plain share holder, and unfortunately got burnt. I intend on selling most of mine when it matures to minimise that risk... Just over 3 years to go! (5 yr scheme) I also do one where it comes out before tax, more risk, but an effective 40% discount so I'm willing to take the risk.

How big is it?

I run CNT HFCs with a Milltek - love it - nice combination of noise when on it, but not too loud on the motorway or around town.

Sharesave scheme at work, if you have one. Usually quite well protected so hard to lose any money, but easy to make it if your company is doing ok.

Also, Jezza went through a phase where he could barely drive anything because of various neck / back injuries being aggravated by cornering speeds, hard braking, etc... Stopping filming cos the brakes on a car you're driving hurt your own neck is no different than CE feeling sick really.

Might as well complete the shaming... Who was being advertised?

I'm just weighing up options at the moment, but as quotes from online valuation places vary so much, I thought I'd ask here too. Car is as per the title really; 2007 313 HR GT Sat Nav, Bluetooth, Heated seats, etc. 90k miles Rays Alloys and MPSS all round Yellow Stuff pads all round CNT Racing HFCs Milltek Cat Back K&N Drop-in filters H-Dev re-map to ~320hp FSH (last 3-4 done by me, i have the receipts, etc) Largely standard aside from the zorst / cats / remap. Usual stone chips to the front, wheels have some kerb rash, drivers bolster has usual signs of wear. Nice reliable car and the zorst / cat combo is nice... 'OE+' is probably the best description for it.

Anybody had one? They're currently tempting me... I don't have enough money for the latter one with the 8sp box (or an XFRS, before anybody mentions it!), so it'll 'just' be the normal 504BHP one with the 6sp auto. Engine, 'box & diff all sound bullet proof and the car is comfy, roomy, and fairly rare. The zorst is quiet but opens up on full chat, or you can get an after-market one. Brakes are decent out the factory. It's clearly not a Zed, but I find my self lusting after more refinement... Views? Experiences?

Yep, Javelin. They did the last one I attended at Mallory too so not sure why this one felt so different. Outside overtakes on Gerrards are great fun in the wet! No plans for the next day - Christmas, plus saving for our Wedding and Honeymoon, has left me destitute!

Mallory Park Went to Mallory yesterday. Minimal car prep needed, just swapped out those temporary rear brakes for some new RS29s, changed the oil, filter & sump plug, and swapped the wheels & tyres for a wet setup (OEM 18s on 255width Federal 595RS-Rs). As forecast, it absolutely chucked it down the whole day. There were plenty of red flags with people spinning off, usually on the exit of Gerards or through the Esses, and lots of queues... LOTS of queues. I think they sold too many places really; waiting 10 minutes just to get out when the track is flowing isn't cool in my book. Once out on track, behavior was mediocre - as ever a few people not moving out the way and a few people doing cheeky overtakes, but no worse than any other day I suppose. It started drying up (or at least, got less wet) in the last 45minutes or so and the track sped up a lot - especially as lots of people had already left, or at least started packing up. In the dry over summer I think I was doing about 56seconds a lap on MPS Cups - yesterday I was doing about 1:19 in the pouring rain and 1:10 as it started to dry. Still lots of room for driver improvement, but happy to report that the track's best efforts to upset me were in vein... despite ample amount of power-on wheel spin and power-on over-steer, understeer at the hairpin, understeer at speed (60ish) through the devil's elbow, which is a down-hill, off-camber left hander that had a river flowing across it, aqua-planing in the braking zones for gerards and the esses, and the TCS off all day - no crashes or spins for me (came close though!) Did about 100 laps over the day. As ever, no pictures or video from me I'm afraid - here's one from in my mates RX7 though, spinning out about 3/4s of the way around Gerards. I'm the BMW that passes him as he comes to a stop.

http://www.wisbechstandard.co.uk/news/family_and_friends_mourn_21_year_old_crash_victim_russell_coombes_as_appeal_goes_nationwide_to_find_his_prized_nissan_1_4364347

I've been in a 360 on the road - it felt much faster than the Z does. Makes better noises too! Go with the Atom and whatever car is closest to one you had on your wall growing up

Go see a physio? If it's ligaments it'll take a while to fix...

You can't put all that up and not include a price!.... Even if it is a test :-p

If they've warped on track once, and then you take off more mass, aren't they just even more likely to warp a second time? Wouldn't it be better to just get better disks? Also, I've not stuck my head in my Zed for quite a while, but I think that bolt you're referring to is un-sprung, so the distance between bolt and tyre will never change.

I filmed the flashes on my phone then played it back. I'm based in south Oxfordshire.

I have danced upon the pedals and it says 10slow 10fast 10fast 10fast over and over again, which I assume means no errors. Joy! :-/ I'll keep the dance instructions in my car and try it again more closely to an event.

Nope - don't have one. My old Vauxhall used to show error codes on the dash if I pushed the pedals in the right order - anything similar on the Z?

Any tips on curing an intermittent misfire on my 350 HR? It seems to happen randomly, but always at low speeds and often when the car is cold. From the noise it's making, it deffo only runs on 5 cylinders and after about 15 - 20 seconds it clears up. No errors on the dash and no changes made to the car. Wires / connectors all seem solid. Cleaned the MAFs. I was thinking about just changing the coil packs and plugs, but at £35 each for the packs and about £100 for the plugs, that's a lot of money to throw on a whim. Are there any diagnostics I can do? Any other possible causes? Cheers, Rich

Donington is brilliant! Best track I've ever been to, bar the 'ring. Weather was a mixed bag, it rained overnight and was cold and cloudy on the morning so the track started wet but dried, albeit slowly and unevenly, as the morning wore on. By lunch time it was dry and I was really getting the hang of it - it's not often I get to overtake other M3s or any Caterhams That was, until I found I'd worn through the rest of my rear pads a LOT faster than I expected and the sound of metal on metal, combined with going waaay deeper in to a corner than expected, signaled the end of the session, but conveniently right before lunch. I had loads of tools with me, but no spare pads, so the mission began to find somewhere open on a Sunday afternoon who sold brake pads to fit an M3. It turns that that while this is difficult, it's not impossible, and after ringing 5-6 places I found on Google, some random side-street shop 25mins up the road saved the day. I returned with my £24 pair of pads (that's £24 total, not each, lol) and got them fitted. They used to be bluestuff's, but now they're just flat bits of metal. It rained over lunch, got colder, and never really stopped spitting at all so the PM session was waaay slower, especially as the MPS Cup tyres I was driving on were down to their last 2mm or so and I'm scared of crashing! I had a few power-on traction issues, especially coming out of the old hairpin and also on to the back straight... extremely greasy. Here's some notes based on the fastest (still quite slow!) time I posted from the afternoon.

Donnington tomorrow - looks like a wet start then dry for the remainder. As ever, I left my pre track day test drive until the day before and found a problem. Lots of rear-end clunking. Jacked it up and found a nut had come off the 'inner' end of a rear camber arm. It's impossible for the bolt to come out, but no nut meant lots of play. The nut in question is a special one - it has a lug off the side so you can slide it in to its (very hard to reach) position, then the lug acts as a stopper so you can tighten from the bolt end because you can't get a spanner to the nut. Anyway, amateur metal work skills to the rescue! I found a normal nut that would fit, then cut a bit of 0.5mm sheet to size, drilled a hole through one end then welded the lot together. Clearly I'm a crap welder, but it did the job and surprisingly it fit first time! Onwards to Donny!

All booked on. Javelin are the TDO if anybody fancies it... £189

Yeah... As in, did lots of damage.

Only been once, 6ish years ago, I managed to skip a Mitsi Evo across the massive gravel trap at the the old hair pin and wrote it off in the tyre wall :-/

Anybody going? Hoping to book on tomorrow (pay day!)