The Chubby Ninja

Good man! Hahahah

Looks like a 206cc in this picture lol

Why wouldn't you advise a T for the pressure sensor? Just curious as that's what I have and can't see why it would be an issue. Where is the other bolt that you can tap off? Hadn't noticed it

Thanks for letting me know was just away to get them aswell. Clutch all good then?

No, not yet. They were going to be e-mails but not had them yet. I got the printed off service bulletin about the release bearing but that's it. You couldn't have a look if you still have them could you? Yeah man will do. I'm away this weekend but il post up on Monday what I'm back

Did you not get torque numbers in the instructions? I've just got an extreme clutch from Clark motorsport aswell and it had instructions with everything you needed to know

The vq doesn't cope very well with alot of mid range torque as the rods are pretty soft so the mid range on the vortech has the torque mapped out of it. If you forge the rods you can get that rorque coming in alot earlier. That's why the turbo setups have to run such low boost on a standard engine

its great if your local but if im honest its a bit of a @*!# show at times, get to rockingham much better run imo. Yeah man I'm drifting at rockingham next year. Looking forward to it as I've never been before. I'm lucky to have driftland,knockhill and crail all within an hour of me so never had to travel that far before so will be getting a trailer for it

Ah cool. It's a bit too far for me maybe someday next year as always wanted to visit the pod!

Where? And it's DWYB lol

There's an oil pressure sensor already in the sump, you just need to unplug it and put a y piece in (got mine from eBay for about £6) and then fit the standard and aftermarket sensors into the ypiece. The gauge will come with the relevant cables to go to the sensor

I'm surprised you haven't had a straight to the point answer yet. The standard pressure gauge is inaccurate as hell. When on the track I always got really low pressure when hot and idling with the standard gauge. 5/40 isn't too bad but still pretty thin. I run 10/60 so that it's still doing its job when mega hot and limiter bashing. Wouldn't recommend it on a daily driven NA car tho. Get yourself a proper oil pressure gauge to see what it's doing and your mind will be at ease. Just for the record I've been drifting mine with just under 500hp for 2 years and never had a baffled sump yet with no issues (touches big piece of wood) so i wouldn't say it was essential. Also try not to come across as a bit of a dick on here when people are trying to help you

+1 on the standard gt wheels they are solid! I've hit alot of things with them, even done full laps with no tyres and they are still fine lol

I've pmd you on Facebook bud

That's probably the piston rings Bl**dy hope not! Was funny watching the BMW 3 series behind you as I'm sure he dropped back at one point because he just couldn't see where he was going when following you. Haha I noticed that. Must be quite hard to see anything when it's that smokey

Nice. Any videos of it flat shifting?

That's probably the piston rings

Just a welded viscous diff bud. I had different wider front wheels than normal on and was trying not to use full lock as the wheels and tyres were rubbing on alot of things so had to grab the wand to scrub the speed off sometimes lol. I learned in my first 450hp z which ended up on its roof lol so this is my second one. Only been drifting a year now Ahhh, becomes clear now, thought it looked a bit strange. If you can do it, a 2 way will make huge amounts of difference over the 3 way, much more progressive and dead easy to take the car past 90 degrees and pull it back again, do you have lock mods as well? I keep seeing very cheap 350's and getting tempted again, I do miss it My mates got a 2 way kaaz in his z and I really can't see much benefit over a welded diff Tbh. The only bonus I can see on it is its easier to turn in tight car parks etc but I really like the welded as you know where you stand with it, it's not going to open half way through a drift because the plates are worn etc. And if it blows it's the best part of a grand to replace, when a viscous is replaced for £150 it's a no brainer for me. The only lock mods are tein tie rods with an extra spacer in them. I had the money set by for the maxx lock kit but ended up needing to give it to a lawyer for something else but it is on the cards

Here's one from the last big track day a few months back. Not the best of vids as was driving conservitively to try and make the last of my tyres Last a little longer lol. Also kept getting caught behind either slower people or people crashing

Just a welded viscous diff bud. I had different wider front wheels than normal on and was trying not to use full lock as the wheels and tyres were rubbing on alot of things so had to grab the wand to scrub the speed off sometimes lol. I learned in my first 450hp z which ended up on its roof lol so this is my second one. Only been drifting a year now

I'll probably be up at Crail for this mate, dibs on an other shotgun ride :teeth: No problem man anytime I'm currently on standby for it but desperately trying to get someone to cover me

Thanks guys 😊 irfan it's just shy of 500 at the fly now, had a new intake setup and exhaust and a new map which made a big difference.goes well now. Gmballistic cheers dude, il post a link to videos up tonight of the go pro on the roof facing forward and back for you lol. Not great videos but you get the idea. P15 ult are you local to crail? Just come up and say hello next time your up. Big track at crail in 2 weeks!

Just a little video of me messing about on the figure of 8 at crail. Tried out the new helmet mount and it worked out not too bad. The picture quality is decent but the sound is recorded through a potato. Also had a little cool down lap in the middle as the new fan setup wasn't working properly. Also lost a big section of the newly fitted bumper with the blowout at the end

It is a cat C pal - and i think the rear subframe is slightly bent which would be a massive job to change mehhh.. It's not too bad to change if your handy with a spanner bud. Just quite time consuming if you have adjustable arms and poly bushes and stuff to change over. I just sent my old z to the crusher with a straight subframe on it or you could of had it free So are you running a welded diff just now? When I done mine I just unplugged the abs block disabling all traction, abs and stability control and it makes it so much more controllable to drift. Even tho you turn the traction control off the crappy stability management is still on and so is the abs which is a pain. Where are you?

The traction will cut in if you are driving it on axel stands. Check the sensors on the drive shafts and that the plugs have been connected properly on the diff. It sounds to me like you've blown the diff. Can you turn the prop when it's in gear? I'd say take it off the stands and see if itl drive but I think your diff is away. Also you must have worn bushes or the rear subframe is misaligned to have broke a prop surely. I've been drifting with 500hp through mine for 3 years and it's fine