The Chubby Ninja

There's an engine for sale in the zs breaking section on here I've just noticed. P15ULT I think his name is

No worries buddy

Yeah understandable man. I wasn't missing it too much but over the last couple of weeks I've been choking to get back out. I'm probably going to be another 2 months before I've got mine built and run in, staying positive tho. At least you know that if you buy another vq you could have the car back out in a day, but it's the cost of another vq that could end up knocking. It's a hard choice man

Yeah I've already had one tho just changing it's position. It's pretty easy dude tbh. When you buy the gauge you should get a sensor with it and wires. Sensor screws into the sandwich plate, a single cable gets connected on the end of the sensor and ran inside the car to the gauge. The gauge will also need a 12v feed that I got from behind the footwell cig lighter.and also a wire to earth. The gauge should come with instructions as to what wire is what. If you need any further help with it just drop me a pm

I've just ordered the AAM today. Was perfect as it has the sensor holes pre drilled and tapped. Not sure if the jwt had it or not but was harder to get

Ah that sucks man I think I broke mine by using too thick an oil :/ we will learn from our mistakes lol. Are you gona go for the 1uz now?

Have you been using normal fuel aswell lol? Big mistake. Maybe not too late to save it tho. And if you have low comp pistons it might be enough to have not caused any issues

Sorry what?

Absolutely! It's well known to cause det. 95 has destroyed plenty of VQ'S I just presumed all z owners would know this it's well documented

You shouldn't need uprated rods for NA. Rods are good for around 330ft/lbs.the vq crank is forged so no need to upgrade

I'm having trouble finding a baffled sump. APS made a decent one but it's apparently discontinued, crapspeed do one but it's out of stock and possibly discontinued? Does anyone know of a baffled sump available for a DE? Car is a fully forged, supercharged drift car so want as much protection from oil slosh as I can get

Didn't realise you were using normal fuel dougie, that will be the cause of the detonation

Could be worth a try as it's normally the bearings that go.youve got to try and find out why it's threw a rod tho on standard power. Ricky is right that the rods are a weak point but only really when boosted. Shouldn't be a problem unless it was a bad map? Usually pre det that causes that

yeh that's the thing, time wise a vq would be the viable option, this is why I'm favouring towards a 1uz or similar as you can pick them up a lot cheaper than a vq. So if the uz went I could put another in a lot cheaper. Yeh haha it's was pretty spectacular That's a good idea then. Would be handy if and when you blew it, just get another complete engine for a couple of hundred quid. Plus the sound not too bad either. I don't think itl be easy to get your gauges and stuff working with it so would probably be easier getting a dash display or something

I've thought about this aswell for mine with a 2j but it all came down to time. Doing it myself would take a while and dealing with any problems/issues that might come up when I just want to get back out drifting as soon as possible. I know what your saying about putting another vq in there it might blow up but I've also seen plenty 2js 1js and bmw v8s blow up aswell so it's a hit or a miss with them aswell. I didn't realise it actually blew a hole in your block!now that's a proper fail! Sorry to hear it dude

I've had 2 zs, first had 34k and came from Glasgow and everything on it was rotten! Second z had 155k on it and came from London and is mint!

When you say brutal do you mean it makes the car a bit of a handful? 500hp and a paddle clutch? Could this have been what killed the gear box? It's just really violent clunks when turning at slow speed and you can feel the whole subframe jerking, even with new poly bushes fitted. You can also feel each shock through the drive train. I had mine on the road for a year with the welded diff and only recently decided to take it off the road. It's bearable living with it but a bit annoying at times. As far as handling goes it's great. Feels very predictable. I need to paddle clutch as it's a drift car. Clutch is rated to 850ftlbs so it doesn't slip when drifting in 4th gear with semi slicks. That's what killed my last clutch. Lots of abuse killed my gearbox but if im honest, I think the 1/4 mile killed the gearbox more than anything and was only doing it for a laugh

Yeah I've been running a welded diff for over a year now with just shy of 500hp and no breakages as I heard they could split the diff case and break drives shafts etc but nothing yet. It is pretty brutal tbh for daily driving but you get used to it. Just make sure your other bushes are ok or you probably will start breaking things. I've destroyed a gearbox and a good clutch but the diffs still soldiering on haha

Easiest way I found was to unplug the 2 plugs on the bottom of the ABS block, turns off the ABS aswell which helps alot when drifting. The zs that heavy it doesn't lock up the wheels very easy so ABS isn't really necessary.ive locked my front wheels up once and it was because my front tyres were down to the metal on the inside so my fault. It makes the car feel soo much better imo

My abs block is unplugged anyway so it might work with mine? Not sure, I've never really been into burnouts tbh but the launch control and anti lag etc sound really cool

So does it actually lock the front brakes or just disable the throttle cutout mark? Also are the options available on the DE as the video I seen for the anti lag etc said it was just for the HR?

I quite like it apart from the front plate. But then I don't always agree with some of the folk on here I'd happily use it as a drifter if I could pick it up for about 4 grand. Would be getting used as a track only drifter and would be getting a colour change first and foremost

Cool man il check that out

Apparently standard gearing will do over 200? So with the final drive changed itl be about 180 max or so I've read. Still more than enough. No worries just let me know man as it's just sitting in the garage as a spare incase mine blows lol. Don't quote me but I think the kaaz is around 800 and I think the final drive is 3-400. Should be about 40-100 for fitting if you just hand them the diff. Il help you swap them over once it's done if you want to save you some cash. Doesn't take that long

Brian I'd recommend the kaaz 2 way over the quaife diff you can also change how much lock it has from 90% to 70% I think it is. Ask gary (evilscorp) for more info as he's done it. Clark motorsport can get you a kaaz no problem. Putting a diff in a z really transforms it as the standard diff is pretty pish tbh. As for a shorter final drive, again great mod for the z, really brings the acceleration alive and to be honest as we have 6 gears, the revs really aren't that high at motorway speeds. I think with the 4.2 final drive the car will still do like 180 so it really isn't a problem. Defo on my to do list. If you do end up getting a diff I have a spare diff lying that you could get it put into then just swap that diff with the one on your car the now to save it being off the road for anytime. Upto you tho man