KyleR

I just had an 8 piece boneless box - it was amazing!

It would be completely pointless to compare unless it was the same car on the same day with both set ups.

Are they fitted yet?

Try Chris Knott on here

Or turn your lights off for a sec when you need to wash the windscreen?

I think we need an expert to educate us Now if only we could tag people on this forum

eBay for the 350Z jack, or talk to the guys Andy mentioned, they'll sort you out too.

This is one example I seen, I have no idea which manufacturer it is or if they are even from the same manufacturer, but it's taken from 2 data sheets, one 75w80 and the other 75w90. SAE Viscosity Rating 75W-90 Relative Density @ 20º C 0.890 Viscosity @ 40º C, cSt 84.8 Viscosity @ 100º C, cSt 15.2 Viscosity Index 189 Flash Point (closed) º C 133 Pour Point º C -45 Viscosity Rating 75W/80W Relative Density @ 20ºC 0.880 Viscosity @ 40ºC, cSt 56.3 Viscosity @ 100ºC, cSt 10.32 Viscosity Index 166 Flash Point,open ºC 159 Pour Point, ºC -39 As you can see, the viscosity measurements at both cold (40°C) and warm (100°C) are around 50% lower for the thinner 75w80. However, the thicker 75w90 appears to have a lower pour point, which I assume is the temperature at which the oil stops pouring at all.

I completely agree. It was made worse when he or someone else listed the viscosity values of several oils from different manufacturers which are all sold as the same weight. To my understanding its calculated based on the amount of time it takes the oil at a set temperature to drain a set amount from a set sized hole, thats how the experts measure the weight. Well some of the times were almost twice that of other oils at the same weight, which puzzled me to say the least.

Logic would suggest that, since they are both 75w they would be the same, however, from the researching I've been doing regarding the differences between 75W85 and 75W90, I've discovered that if the warm viscosity number changes, so does the cold, despite the number being identical. I'm pretty sure it was Oilman/OpieOils who spoke about this, on another forum I came across.

I went for the Fuchs Titan Race SYNCHRO 75W-90 in the end. I'm aware the viscosity will be marginally thicker than 75W85 when cold, But I'd like to try something other than the typical OEM stuff and prefer not to use any additives that may or may not actually do anything.

Ah, my bad. Know if the US has 2 reservoirs on all models too? They didn't, only HID models with washers would have them.

Y pipe should stop a good few inches before the W brace, if it doesn't it might need investigating Of course all aftermarket applications are different, but y pipes are usually the same length.

Can sorta see them without taking the bumper off. All Z33's with headlight washers have 2 tanks (so only pre-facelift DEs and JDM have 1). It's dark now, so I'll check on it tomorrow, but I'm assuming that yes, it's not going across into the 2nd tank - whether this is due to an air bubble, blockage, or something else, I don't know. The 2nd tank (the one that is filled indirectly via the first tank) was the first to drain, and then most of the first tank followed, so I don't think there is a blockage or the first tank wouldn't have drained through. Pre facelift have 2, only some JDM will have a single

Tarmac used to do them.

You just skipped all the text and went straight for the pix, didn't you? Busted, my apologies. Funny, doesn't look like it has spacers on the back at least. Oh well, must be a trick of the angles, or the ride height throwing me off. Probably not fitted yet in the pic to be fair

The car needs to be very aggressive to pull them off. I've seen a few with Nismo V1 bumpers or OEMs with lips and it looks odd TBH.

You just skipped all the text and went straight for the pix, didn't you?

It can sometimes be tough enough for some to pass mot with 2 HFCs in place of the OEMs, nevermind with a single HFCs in the y-pipe. If your tester is friendly however, just fit whichever. Ps I wonder is there more restriction from a single hfc on the MD y pipe compared to a pair replacing the OEMs?

Literally that ^^^ It's just butt dyno stuff, but still fun to have.

So there's quite a few more choices of GL4 oils at 75w-80 or 75w-90 as apposed to the recommended 75w-85, which is apparently quite rare with Redline being the only one easily available after a quick search (I'm sure more are available if I put the time in). What implications could there be using an oil with a slightly thinner or thicker viscosity? Or does 5w not really matter?

Interesting, traders offer GL5 oils for the gearbox.

I've heard GL5 has twice the sulphur and/or phosphorus levels of GL4 oils, is there any reason it can't be used in the 350 manual box? Apparently it corrodes yellow metals, any of those in there to worry about? I think GL4 is recommended? GL5 is recommended for the diff apparently, so its fine in there

The worst thing about this car is the badge and I don't mean the fact it's a Kia, it's just the Kia badge looks like @*!#!

Look great, how do they perform?