andybp

I think next weekend might be pushing it the reason I'm doing the brakes now is i didn't realise my Mot ran out 3 weeks ago luckily i haven't been driving it so i thought stuff it I'll get some work done so all the discs and pads are done now, gonna get a front tyre changed with a nick in the Sidewall shame cause it's nearly new and hope it goes through the emissions again

Did the rear discs today here's a quick summary of the procedure for those who don't know jack up car remove rear wheel/wheels ensure handbrake is off and car out of gear remove the top R-Clip these are in the wrong way the bent part should be facing out and the top pad retaining pin then remove the cross shaped pad spring the caliper should now look like this since we're changing pads and discs you can put a flat head screwdriver or similar between the pads and disc to push the piston back in since we're not worried about marking the discs being careful that your reservoir doesn't overflow you may have to put something in the gap you've opened up between the pad and disc to stop the piston pushing back out when you do the other piston once this is done remove the lower R-Clip and pin and remove the pads keeping the shims from the back of the pads note how they were fitted as these will be fitted to the new pads remove the 2 calliper mounting bolts and move the calliper out of the way i used a bungee strap to take the weight of mine as you don't want to leave it hanging from the hydraulic pipe rotate the disc so that the rubber bung is at the top and remove the bung this is what's behind the bung this adjusts the shoes for the handbrake using a flat head screwdriver or similar you need to turn this toothed wheel upwards slackening off the shoes i do mine all the way this has to be done through the hole. now in an ideal world a few light taps and a bit of pulling and the disc will come off I had to use a puller on both of mine. then its just a case of reversing the procedure not forgetting to torque up the calliper mounting bolts, some copper grease on the back of the pads / shims and before you put the wheel back on adjust the hand brake adjuster back up i'm sure there's a proper procedure i just turned the wheel down until they started to cause some drag when trying to turn the disc then turned them back a couple of notches seems fine So I'm sure i probably missed something but like i said this is just an overview not a detailed step by step

just got my Spartan2 wideband O2 sensor / controller going to tie it into my Boost/oil pressure controller to give me a readout of the AFR also i will add another menu so it can give me a warning for rich or lean mixture based on what set points i put in also waiting for a new larger 4 line display as it's getting cluttered trying to display so much info on the 2 line lcd i'm using right now i did start changing my discs and pads today got the front done before it started raining so have already done most of the software mods while i was hiding from the rain this afternoon

changed my front discs and pads will do the rear tomorrow when it's warmer even though i had to use a puller to get one of the discs off it was really easy took an hour to do both front gradually getting the goodies out of the garage and on to the car

I've got the 4tb version of the western digital My cloud with a 3tb plugged in the back and a dlink dns 343 with 4 2tb drives both been very reliable

no no oil lines the sumps just for the extra capacity and cooling

can't blame you for your scepticism but i have quite a lot of experience and i'm really stubborn but most importantly i'm doing it for fun as for costs some of the items were purchased at a price far below what you could buy them for normally but if i ignore the cost of dead ends and me changing my plans it owes me about £1100 buying everything full price this would go up to about £1600 -£1700 most of this extra cost is from the Ecu and oil pumps, the Ecu was 2nd hand and the oil pumps were the deal of the century

Well the answer was no.my plans didn't survive contact with reality I made a couple of amateur-ish mistakes had to change a couple of transistors as the gain was too high what that meant in the real world was that the two pumps ran flat out continuously not the end of the world also i had to tweak the software the oil pressure and temperature inputs were a real pain to get right as the sensors don't have a linear outputs so had to do some fancy maths to ensure it read correctly real pain in the arse also put an extra menu into the software for diagnostics so the front screen displays Turbo oil pressure and temperature and boost pressure pressing the joystick button toggles between the setup and main screen once in setup you can scroll through the 5 setup screens first oil pressure setpoint second the temperature setpoint third the boost setpoint fourth the delay shut off time for the pumps fifth is the diagnostics displaying the raw analog input data sorry but it's hard to take a picture of the display as the values are changing constantly this wont happen when the inputs are all connected. So I think I've bored you enough for one day if the weather improves a little I'll try to get something interesting done for next time

Another little daily update the little Joystick type 5 way switch and heat sinks arrived today so the pump driver board and interface board and software are pretty much finished all tested and working on the bench went pretty much according to plan which is worrying in its self there's a famous quote "NO PLAN SURVIVES CONTACT WITH REALITY" well it's a bastardised version of a famous quote by Field Marshal Helmuth Von moltke about plans not surviving long after contact with the enemy but i digress the point is none of the work i've done on this has been within 50 feet of the Z so there's plenty that could go wrong yet on paper and on the bench it works but will my plans survive contact with the Z's electrical system ?

Yea same problem here bought a shorter one to avoid the problem and the bloody thing doesn't work but other than the fact that it is a bit long it seems to work really well

Another unexciting update but as i said before just trying keep it up to date so connectors and fuse holders showed up today so the interface board is finished just got to sort out the heatsinks for the pump driver board gotta stop spending money on the Z so many parts waiting for some decent weather so i can fit them.

i've got this one worked with everything so far http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Pro-Wireless-ELM-327-Bluetooth-OBD-2-OBD-II-Car-Diagnostic-Auto-Scanner-Tool-/400852337033?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item5d54a94189

if you can get the pumping station adopted by the local waste water co. it will become their responsibility and you will then only have to pay your water rates. some times they won't take it on if it's not up to their standards or maybe they just haven't been made aware of it

nothing exciting just trying to keep this up to date as i go along got a bit more done to the interface board, display now connected and working like i said nothing exciting just 1 step closer.

I'm sure we can sort something out

got my first electronics kit when i was about 10 (39 Yrs ago) been a nerd ever since worked in the electronics industry several times designing and installing security systems and designing circuit boards for some big company's had a lot of varied occupations radar operator , surveyor spent 10 Yrs in weapons testing and this is just a few, so now i shovel s**t for a living pretty much the only thing i've never worked with is cars which is probably a good thing as i'd probably stop enjoying playing with them so the short answer is some experience / training some self taught mostly don't like people telling me what i can't do actually based on what they cant do (sorry may have lost the plot there and started rambling)

minor update i decided that the keyboard and display interface board i was using was restricting my choices for installation in the dash due to the keyboard being part of the same board also i would have needed a separate board to interface with all of the inputs and outputs so i chose to build the interface board directly on the processor and run a ribbon cable to the display to make installation easier and more flexible also rather than 5 separate buttons for input i have chosen to use a 5 way joystick type button so there will only be a small approx 4mm nipple for the menu system (yes i know i said nipple) other than a couple of connectors and heatsinks for the transistors this is the finished board for driving the two pumps using the pwm signal from the arduino controller this is the unfinished interface board (left) the two transistors are for switching the delay off relay and the boost control solenoid. and the arduino controller (right) Should get this all finished and tested this week sorry for the blurry photo's my Nikon's crap up close

Have to say I'm loving this it's like Petrolhead porn this is my sort of modding getting your hands dirty not just handing over cash and taking credit also says volumes about the community spirit on this forum so many people providing help and encouragement you should all be proud of yourselves just sorry i don't live closer. Keep up the good work

just in case anyone is confused by all the 1's and 0's and wondering what it's all about try this http://binarytranslator.com/

Could add some James Bond esq bits, ...caltrops, oil slick, machine guns? Too far? Water injection would be cool. Pretty sure Keyser had that on his Zed so maybe worth asking him for info if you decide to go for that. yea or maybe nitrous i put nitrous on my Mr2 Gt turbo absolutely mental

Yea thats what I was thinking will need to make up a fascia for it and maybe relocate the buttons off the board will get it working 100% first may add some some features to it as it's got lots of capacity not sure what else i need to control could use it to control water injection

Ha just noted the edit cool i don't think so you're in a tank top and sandals (with socks)

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well aren't we nerds together01101001 01110011 00100000 01110100 01101000 01101001 01110011 00100000 01101100 01101001 01101011 01100101 00100000 01100001 00100000 01110011 01110000 01100101 01100011 01101001 01100001 01101100 00100000 01101000 01100001 01101110 01100100 01110011 01101000 01100001 01101011 01100101 01101100 01101001 01101011 01100101 00100000 01101110 01100101 01110010 01100100 01111001 00100000 01101101 01100001 01110011 01101111 01101110 01110011

well aren't we nerds together01101001 01110011 00100000 01110100 01101000 01101001 01110011 00100000 01101100 01101001 01101011 01100101 00100000 01100001 00100000 01110011 01110000 01100101 01100011 01101001 01100001 01101100 00100000 01101000 01100001 01101110 01100100 01110011 01101000 01100001 01101011 01100101