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Everything posted by andybp
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Yea do what Dan said "a cheeky smack on the bum" I want to see how that works out for ya
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I see it the same way, same project just evolving
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Give in to the dark side
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I don't believe that anyone who knows me would have taken that bet
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You guy's want to watch the orville instead
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I knew you'd jump on that
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Dan you complete Trekker
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did the valve close fully after you cleaned it ? and you didn't touch the grub screw on the outside of the body ? if the valve fully closes when the engine is off and you've done the throttle reset correctly then maybe you do need a new one seems a bit odd to me
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Ok I know some of you might not be suprised by this but I'm thinking about starting this again from scratch yes I know I haven't really finished it I'm just not happy with some of it especially the way the throttle bodies are fitted to the manifold I need to look into it as I'm not sure there's a practical way around it , maybe cnc machining a new manifold with the throttle bodies fitting directly into it Hmmmm
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did a bit of repair work where I damaged it still not perfect also fitted the gauges back in and found the perfect wallpaper for it.
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just checked I'm good for the 26/11 don't know if the weather will be but I'm good
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22nd's no good for me either
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just took a look at the museum of power coffee and cars day is the 22nd not the 29Th 3rd sunday of the month not last
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That's ok Dan if it rains we can shelter under your BGW so that's a yes from me
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Yea me too if I can get my Z a little more reliable before then
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I wasn't going to put the program in but I thought someone might like to give it a try who hasn't any programming experiance cost me about £6 in parts so if you have an aftermarket ecu chances are the trip computer will no longer work and it will look pretty OEM
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I was going to get fancy with this and get it to do all sorts of clever things but at the end of the day all I actually wanted was an AFR meter that looked pretty OEM and since installing my link ecu my trip computer no longer works which I knew was going to happen so no big deal actually ideal for my AFR gauge I pulled it apart to measure up to see what display I could use it comes apart easy 2 screws an 6 clips the display I decided to use was this 1.3" oled i2c display cost about £4 from china combined with an arduino nano controller which has an onboard voltage regulator so will runn directly off 12 Volts this is it running the I2c interface on the display means it only needs four wires to connect to it the program was really simple #include <Arduino.h> #include <U8g2lib.h> #include <Wire.h> U8G2_SH1106_128X64_NONAME_1_HW_I2C u8g2(U8G2_R0, /* reset=*/ U8X8_PIN_NONE); void setup(void) { u8g2.begin(); } int val = 0; int afr = 0; uint8_t m = 100; void loop(void) { char m_str[4]; strcpy(m_str, u8x8_u8toa(m, 3)); u8g2.firstPage(); do { u8g2.setFont(u8g2_font_logisoso62_tn); u8g2.drawStr(67,35,"."); u8g2.drawStr(0,63,m_str); } while ( u8g2.nextPage() ); delay(10); val = analogRead(0); afr =val/10.23; m = afr+100; } all I need to do now is get the soldering iron out connect it to a switched 12v supply and the 0-5v signal from my wideband controller and I can put my gauges back in. I'll update this post with the final pictures obviously
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didn't know it even existed i may have to visit.
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have you tried swapping the left and right hand bank sensors over to see if it actually is the sensor and not another issue
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got the software mostly sorted making tuning the car on the road much easier also when the gauges go back in the digital one which shows fuel consumption etc is being replaced with a digital afr gauge I'm making will add a little write up when i get the time
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you're right I should be positive about it and take the opportunity to bring the rest of my interior up to scratch
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got it all painted then dropped it on my garage floor looks ok in the picture but it needs some filling and re-painting but it's all working i even added a power button