cs2000

Interesting indeed. Ive probably tried to start the car...I dunno...20 times since it was left on a proper charger overnight, its still going strong, but I guess perhaps the voltage could dip, but the amperage be OK during cranking. Ive got a brand new battery in my 6 month old van I can swap in to try id guess. Not sure it the battery in a 1.6 diesel is man enough to start a 3.5 petrol though?

Never did swap the battery over, ended up returning it, because the car solidly cranks, I ruled out the battery being the issue

Welcome to the latest adventure in me not knowing what the F'ing hell is wrong with this thing. I had a new set of Crankshaft (left and right) as well as Camshaft sensors arrive today, dashed over to my in-laws house where the car is currently broken down, to fit them. As I suspected the Crank sensor, I started here, promptly did the bolt up, rather than undo-ing and sheared the thing in half right at the head. I HATE that feeling when a tight bolt suddenly becomes loose. I knew what id done before I even moved the ratchet off of the bolt Anyway, stuck the sensor in, same result, crank but no firing up. Since I had them, I replaced the drivers side Camshaft sensor anyway, same issue, crank but no firing, however I did notice the electrical connector side was oily, smelt like engine oil but I cant be sure, engine bays tend to just smell oily, could be dirt and moisture. Is this normal? Id suspect not... By this time id totally lost the light, so didn't even begin on the passenger side, airbox, strut and intake tube all have to come off. Ive got the 2 sensors ive removed from the car with me and followed a guide on Pro Street Online about testing the sensors "https://my.prostreetonline.com/2016/02/11/how-to-test-a-nissan-350z-camshaft-sensor/" they test as follows Drivers side Camshaft Pin A to B - 1.8 mili ohms Pin B to C - 1.24 k ohms Pin A to C - 1.8 mili ohms Crankshaft Pin A to B - 1.2 k ohms Pin B to C - 1.7 mega ohms Pin A to C - 1.8 mega ohms Brand New (not yet fitted) Passenger side Camshaft Pin A to B - 0.2 ohms (is this 0.2 mili ohms...?) Pin B to C - 5.5 k ohms Pin A to C - 5.4 mega ohms These values are WAAAAAAY different than the ones I've measured that were fitted to the car, is this "normal" between manufacturers, or just the replacements, or the OEM ones are duds? The guide doesn't say what a good value is, but it says "As long as your digital multimeter does not return a 0 or infinite value, your 350Z camshaft sensor is okay." SO are my OEM sensors fine?!? Next, my generic OBDII code reader couldn't read any codes that were stored or pending, but when I was doing the ECU reset, I noticed the light was flashing in patterns, so I did a recording of the values until I got bored and thought sod it that will do. The video is below (im really sorry about the beeping noise, just hit mute, there's no useful audio anyway...) From that, as far as I can tell, im getting P1615 - NATS Malfunction P0340 - Camshaft Sensor Bank 1 P0335 - Crankshaft Sensor But what gives? I just replaced those bloody things... P1615 - I've not had a valid "start" because of the cranking issue, so I'm suspecting NATS has just locked the system. I did also put a totally unregistered/unprogrammed key into the ignition and turn it to ON to check the Security LED, it flashed rapidly and it doesn't do this with the two good keys I have, but this could have locked the NATS system. Maybe nothing to worry about, not 100%. P0340 - This connector was oil (I think) soaked. Could this be the cause of this fault? P0335 - I did snap the retaining bolt, but ive checked, the metal ring the bolt goes through on the sensor isn't electrically connected to any pins, so this alone would cause a fault, so WTF is wrong?!? Im at my absolute wits end here. I have a non starting, but otherwise seemingly functional vehicle, ive fired the parts cannon at it and came up empty. I cant get the car to any garage with any knowledge (Kaiser or another good forum garage) as it wont start and im totally out of ideas for where to turn next, plus im fighting with our British winter rain to get any meaningful further diagnosis performed. As far as I can tell my next steps are the following. - Buy a bolt extractor set to remove the sheared bolt for the Crank sensor and replace this bolt with...something.... If anyone is breaking acar and has the Crankshaft sensor bolt spare, il take it. Its Nissan part number 08156-62033 but I cant find any UK suppliers. I believe its the same part as the Camshaft sensor bolts too. - Re-fit the OEM Crank and Cam sensor, cleaning the connectors with some contact spray - Sacrifice some small animal so the ECU reset procedure actually works, clearing the three error codes shown in the video above - Sacrifice a slightly larger animal and pray something just bloody works when I turn the key Im also looking at buying Nissan Datascan II http://www.nissandatascan.com/ as I have a VAG-COM cable and this supposedly is basically like a Consult II and could help me locate a fault easier, im just wary of wasting another bunch of cash on something, its a expensive time of the year! Guys and gals, I know this is asking a lot, but help me with a Christmas miracle here. Seriously, ANY replies with things to try would be much appreciated. If someone cracks it, il send some cash your way for a crate of beers to enjoy on the big day. I'm desperate to get her up and running again /cs2000.

I never went through with it in the end, but my plan was to put some of that decal transfer paper and print new text (which i did do), remove the old lacquer using some kind of chemical so as to not scratch the metal below, apply decal and re-lacquer. just didnt have time when i had the steering wheel off and thats kinda the issue, you have to remove the steering wheel to get access to the screws that hold those pieces on.

Pm incoming!

Definitely be coming again this year for the 4th time, assuming I can get my Z starting reliably again. Won’t buy a ticket yet but looking forward to adding my name onto the list, hopefully back on track again this time, missed it last year!

Thanks Alex, I was initially shopping locally as I thought “I can just go pick the part up”, turns out everyone was out of stock. for clarity, I didn’t check the prices with Alex, just torqen and tarmac as I could check easily on their website, so alex’s prices may well be spot on, I’m sure they are!

Well, Euro car parts said they had one in stock for home delivery, then emailed yesterday saying they couldn’t find it and it would be 45 days for a replacement. Cancelled! Called GSF car parts who did have one! Went to collect it today and opened the box in the store, it’s a Left Hand camshaft sensor, not a crankshaft one and they don’t have any in the entire company. Tried all of our sellers, a few do have them, but they’re 2-3x the cost I can find elsewhere. Had to order a complete set of crank and both side cam sensors now online to actually get them. Still came in cheaper than traders on here so not too bothered, just frustrating to not be able to get parts I guess. will update when I get to fit the crank sensor, when our lovely British weather allows at least. Nothing but rain forecast for the next 7 days...

Solid red security light means NATS (immobiliser system) doesn't recognise your key. Do the fans come on straight away when you turn the key? This is Nissans way of telling you theirs a major issue, usually ECU related. Check the MAF sensor is installed, connected electrically and not damaged too.

@Jorge yep, got 2 modules left and offer is still on £71.95 until the end of the year.

Done some lateral thinking this evening. 1. Car has ONLY started when cold. 2. NATS LED on dashboard isn’t lit up solid red, indicating (I think) that it recognises my key and should therefore turn off the immobiliser. 3. When the car is running, it runs just fine, even under high throttle/rpm. 4. ECU reset appeared to clear out a stored code that my reader couldn’t see (it was flashing a pattern, but I took no notice of it) 5. Car then started ok when cold with ECU reset. This leads me to one think. Crankshaft position sensor. From my reading, this can cause intermittent starting and doesn’t always trigger a engine code, if it was a camshaft sensor failure rather than crankshaft, it would cause intermittent power loss when driving, limp mode and would cause a code to be thrown. ive ordered one, but can’t get one locally before Tuesday, so we shall see on Tuesday I guess. @Keyser remember we did a gearbox swap, I can’t remember if we swapped the sensor from my old box or if we used one that came on the 2nd hand gearbox. il keep you all updated

Right, had some good and bad luck. Got to the car this morning and the battery was all nicely charged. Connected it back to the car and tried it with my normal key, just cranked over. Tried my spare key, just cranking again. Damn. Didnt bother swapping in my new battery. Tried an ECU reset, then she fired right up, hell yes! Left it running for 10 mins whilst I checked tyre pressures and put my tools away. Turned the car off and then started it just fine with both my spare and my original key, fixed! i went on a 40 min drive with no issues, no battery light or any weirdness. its now around 60 mins later, my wife just wanted to move to the car and it won’t bloody start again, just cranks over. Sadly, she didn’t know the pedal dance to perform an ECU reset, but I heard on the phone the car was cranking over strong and sounded just fine. I scanned the car this morning and no codes were stored or pending in the ECU. so....any further ideas from anyone what’s wrong? Still a low battery issue, Crank position sensor or a NATS problem? Is there any way I can check what is happening with the CPS?

Hey guys, Having an issue tonight starting the car, and am stumped why, but some background first. I have an 04 GT, battery is an Exide brand around 4 years old. The car is strictly a toy, it gets used for trips most weekends during the summer and I try to get it out every few weeks in the winter, but with the recent cold snap, rain and busy weekends the cars been parked for about a month. went to start it last weekend and it was flat as a pancake, one crank and dead, so I put it on my battery tender system which shows the voltage at 9.2v and left it all week (working, weekend only car). Started the car this evening, seemed ok. However I was getting the battery light flickering at Idle RPM’s, when I was driving above 1000rpm ish, the light went away. Got to my in-laws house around 5 miles away and parked the car, came out an hour later and the car cranks just fine, but will not fire up. ive changed the key battery, done an ECU reset and still nothing. I THINK I’m having a NATS issue. When I lock the car, the alarm led flashes like crazy, I think this is normal, but when I unlock the car the light goes out. From memory, this should only go out once a valid key is inserted into the ignition. The fuel pump primes, cranks ok but no start. I know for almost a decade around here, these cars can do very very odd things with a failing battery. Is this one of them Even though the car cranks ok? ive left the battery disconnected but connected to a charger overnight and will tackle it tomorrow, but wondered if the collective hive mind could come up with anything I can check. i plan to take the spare key, code reader and maybe buy another battery, but assuming it’s not this? really appreciate any advice!

Got a few of these left in stock currently as have been selling some via the club facebook page. I know its winter and loosing traction is probably the last thing on your mind, but if you're thinking about one of these for next year, get them now. Theirs usually a massive surge in there around Feb/March as peoples cars come out of hibernation and im not building any more until these (due to lack of parts) have gone, so you may miss out. As a little sweetener as we all know this is an expensive time of the year, any orders from now until the end of the year get 10% off ------- EDIT: 2 left, sale has ended now so back to full price. Just remember, there was a rush on these early in the year so if you want one, grab them now! If anybody fancies a Group Buy on these, il do the same 10% off for groups of 5+ and 20% for groups of 10+

Got a few of these left in stock currently (3) as have been selling some via the club facebook page. I know its winter and loosing traction is probably the last thing on your mind, but if you're thinking about one of these for next year, get them now. Theirs usually a massive surge in there around Feb/March as peoples cars come out of hibernation and im not building any more until these (due to lack of parts) have gone, so you may miss out. As a little sweetener as we all know this is an expensive time of the year, any orders from now until the end of the year get 10% off :)

I have 4 of these in stock, for the next 14 days, so until the end of 08/10/2019, these will be on sale at ~20% off, meaning £64 inc postage whilst stock of these lasts. Its going into winter now so not keen on hanging onto too much stock over winter. EDIT: Sale now over, still got some in stock, PM me or post on here if you want to purchase

Sorry for the delay! Yes mate, go for it FWIW, I have 3 of these in stock, for the next 14 days, so until the end of 08/10/2019, these will be on sale at ~20% off, meaning £48 inc postage whilst stock of these lasts. Its going into winter now so not keen on hanging onto too much stock over winter. EDIT: Sale now over, still got some in stock, PM me or post on here if you want to purchase

First official sale of this has gone to a member in Australia! I do ship worldwide assuming you cover the uplift in postage costs! Plenty more in stock!

Hey all, I’m back from my honeymoon and luckily the LED buttons I ordered came into stock, I now have 5 of these assembled, ready to go! drop me a PM or comment on here if you’re interested. Happy to answer any questions too of course! just like the TCS/VDC module, these will be always in stock and available now

Hey guys, all back from my honeymoon, last parts arrived and I have plenty of these in stock again. Drop me a PM if you’re interested! Oh, one more thing. The supplier of the buttons messed up a little bit, they shipped me 9 red and one blue led button, so I have one obscure one which has a silver button, but a blue led not red. Just let me know if you want this one when you message me. I only have one of these and it does look cool, so first come, first served!

Thanks for being my guinea pig @Daisyduke the burnout does indeed (as I mentioned) give a tiny bit of throttle cut before restoring, this is to keep the ECU happy i too think j rather annoyed my clutch in attempt 1, but by 2 and 3 I’d got it pinned down there is also a throttle cut when you do brake boosting, but as you say, the momentum on the car negates it anyway. im just pleased my results are value dated meaning this is now for sale! im currently away, sunning it in Crete, so if you want one, just stick your name below, il get back to you on the 29th/30th once I’m back home

Good to see another update on this! Still keen on following along if you ever feel like knocking up a few of the special components you had to produce! Even just having a play with a PCB design would keep me happy (yes, I am sad haha)

So, just to address that comment, and for anyone else that maybe feel like they should have waited,Sorry! When i released the VDC/TSC module, i had no idea at all that this would be a requested mod too. More importantly, nor did i know if i could even do it, so didn't wanna say "yeah hold on il sort one out". Working on it on and off, its still taken me 8 months to get here We now have a tester in the form of @Daisyduke

PM Incoming

Hi again everyone As im sure you all know, ive been selling my VDC/TCS disable mod for almost a year, have sold plenty of modules between Facebook and this site with not a single install issue But one thing that kept being asked was about brake boosting/standing burnouts. This is a feature thats only very recently (i think summer last year) been added to the UpRev tune, but this is a lot cheaper if you just want to make smoke or build some boost! The 350z's have a system built in so that when the vehicle is moving (and in gear) you cannot use the brake and throttle at the same time. The engine RPM's get cut and fall away. This means that if you're trying to do a standing burnout, such as tyre warming at the drag strip, you cant. Also if you're running a turbo, you cant brake boost. This mod changes all of that. The existing methods involve cutting a wire on the ECU which is the "hey, ive pressed the brake" input. But theirs an issue with this. After a certain amount of time of seeing no brake signal, the ECU figures out something has to be wrong and throws a CEL, disabling the cruise control until this is cleared. You can also remove a fuse in the car, but this stops your brake lights from working, so not ideal. So, introducing the VDC/TCS Disable board, now with Brake Mod So, off the bat. Yes, it looks a LOT like my old module! I wanted to keep the same form factor and much of the physical module is the same. This is because it still does the whole VDC/TCS disable, just with an extra feature on top. Under the hood, the entire code has been re-written to be much simpler (trimmed the fat basically), faster to operate, and informative too. What is it? This is a custom PCB and circuit which automatically disables BOTH the TCS and VDC features on the car at the simple press of a button but leaves your ABS system and brake lights alone, it also disables the throttle cutout when you're on the brakes so you can perform standing burnouts or brake boost (FI vehicles only, duh). The clever part is it remembers if you disabled these features and will automatically disable them for you next time you start the car. Great if you're doing a track day and have a few sessions booked! It doesn't trigger any check engine lights, ever and doesn't interfere with any other features on the car. How Does It Work? Start up the car and you will see the LED button light up, if you have the module visible, the green power LED will also light up on the board itself which you can see through the translucent 3d printed case. Notice your TC and Slip lights go out on the dashboard as normal after a few seconds. Briefly press and release the button (no need to hold it, just a quick press), a relay will click and the button's LED will flash 5 times and then stay off. You will now have the TCS and Slip lights illuminated on your dashboard, meaning the Traction Control and Vehicle Dynamic Control stability aids are fully disabled and the throttle lockout/brake mod is activated To perform a standing burnout, do one like you normally would do in any vehicle without this lockout "feature" (basically, do a burnout then hold the brakes so that you lock up the front axle only). The RPM's will dip as normal for 0.1 second (this is where im fooling the ECU and keeping it happy) and then rise again as the lockout is removed. Continue until your happy you've made enough smoke . During this time, each time the module detects the brake is pressed, the button LED will turn on for 0.1 second, when it turns off, the throttle lockout is removed, just a good little way to visually see what the system is doing. If you now turn the car off, wait a second and turn it back on again you’ll notice the relay clicks again and automatically disables the stability features for you! To re-enable them simply press and release the button again and the button LED will once again illuminate. Now turn the ignition off and on again and the TC and Slip lights will turn off on your dash. Traction and Vehicle Dynamic Control are now re-enabled just like normal. Is it it difficult? Install is pretty simple, just need to be careful as it involves splitting one wire at the ECU, but you need no special tools, literally a screwdriver, some pliers, a bit of insulation tape, a drill (for the button hole) and about 30-45 mins of time. ======================= The final module price is £79.95 including the same first class signed for postage as the standard VDC/TCS board. Fitting is pretty easy in my opinion, however as with everything else I sell, if you’re willing to travel to me, I can fit at no extra cost. In the package: 1x Assembled VDC/TSC Disable & Brake Mod Board finished in stealth black and silver 1x Custom designed 3d printed case (an upgrade from the clear heat shrink used on the older VDC/TCS only modules) 1x Colour Installation Guide (This is provided by a PDF link to save on paper) 1x Metal Switch with Red LED I'm not very active on the forums anymore since selling the car, but still sell these modules on my site, link below! https://www.cs2000-z-tech.co.uk/collections/350z-compatible-modules/products/burnout-brake-boost-tcs-vdc-disable-module NOTE: This module is for MANUAL 350Z's only! It causes weird issues in Auto vehicles and i've not even tried to fit this into a 370 yet, perhaps in time! (any volunteers?)