cs2000

Guys, the GB that someone else organised (which I took over due to an unfortunately times holiday on their part IIRC) was a absolute nightmare. This was an order of somewhere in the region of £400, possibly more, with a really minimal discount, was something like 5 or 10%. They messed me around for about a week solid with who I should even be sending the money too, then delivery took at least another 3 days to arrange. I have used their struts on my Celica, and on the 350 and when the items do turn up they're perfect, no issues on either vehicle, you just sadly have to deal with their poor pre-sales team to get there. As a sub-note. Never EVER agree to do a GB with them! Took up far to much of my time for a teeny-weeny discount. The struts you need for your Zeds are either; These for no spoiler at all http://www.sgs-engineering.com/car-boot-tailgate/nissan/350z/nl1749-nissan-350z-tailgate-boot-strut These for what we mostly have with the little lip http://www.sgs-engineering.com/car-boot-tailgate/nissan/350z/nl1751-nissan-350z-tailgate-boot-strut Or these if you have a Nismo spoiler. These are probably good for most any other kind of spoiler too http://www.sgs-engineering.com/car-boot-tailgate/nissan/350z/nl1750-uprated-nissan-350z-tailgate-boot-strut if they start asking you to send your old ones in just refuse. The struts above and the standard kit of nuts and bolts that they supply are perfect, they were for me and then other members who participated in the GB.

From what I have read, it adds no new features, just bug fixes sadly. You can run the software update without the maps, but essentially offers no benefit. @ilogikal1 - The code you have to enter is a 16 digit number generated by some kind of algorithm based off of your nav unit ID. Not enough people have come forward yet where their Unit's ID and the resulting code so that they can be looked at closely enough to find patterns that would result in being able to find out keys. Sadly guys if you want the 2015 disks you have to purchase from Nissan, I wouldn't trust them from someone else. Im having issues copying my Disk2 for some reason. Think im there now but whoever takes these disks from me needs to be aware disk 2 MAY fail, and there's really nothing I can do about it (cant test before as I don't have a '70. I would like someone to try these, but if they do fail, be ready to buy a set of disks from eBay or somewhere else to get you out of a jam. PM me if your interested, im looking at having 2 sets ready within 24-48 hrs.

Just an update btw on the 2015 versions. These were released in December 2014. The base software upgrade works fine but the maps send the nav unit ID to a server to check if its authorised for the map upgrade and then sits and waits for you to enter an activation code. This hasn't been "fixed" yet so unless you wish to buy the update from Nissan it isn't really available anywhere else. I mean, it is, I can get the actual disks, but not an activation codes which leaves the nav system stuck in an un-operational state as it sits and waits for the activation code.

Shame to see the disks have disappeared as I took a lot of time doing disk labels, nice cases, covers and instructions. I do still have a complete set which id like to keep as I may be upgrading to a 370 soon. Il see if I can get a few copies done and distributed again though.

Glad you got there in the end Zhorno Radjordan, beat of luck. Just take your time de soldering the old and soldering in the new relay and you will be fine. In reality it's a fairly simple job

There's nothing wrong with SGS struts. Many members on here and across the country rely on them. I have used them on my last 2 cars and have been totally fine.

If its where im thinking, the fuel tank is there. Take a look at a guide on here somewhere. Its to do with fixing the inaccurate fuel gauge, but it deals with taking off panels around that area. May be of some help, may not.

Dan, didn't see the post in-time and its all been swapped to a more OEM spec which I like. I have immediately noticed the loss of such a free rev, but its worth it for getting driveability back IMO. Always wondered whether its the clutch or the Flywheel, ut there we go. Gopt a Driftworks Superfly SMF for sale now if anyone wants it lol, around 1500 miles done on it. With or without the XTD 6 puck Stage 2 clutch. @Bodyboarder81 - Its not that it gives more BHP or anything. Its that the engine is using less of its available power spinning up a heavy weight. If the weight is lighter that small amount of extra power not required to spin up the flywheel is just sent to the wheels. It does make a noticeable difference. I thought the 'lightweight' SNF was pretty heavy, but then I got the new DMF. I didn't try very hard but I could barely lift the DMF out of its box...

Where are you based? Maybe a member close by with a code reader if you can't get the pedal dance to work.

Funny you should ask. I'm currently sat in the reception of Kaiser Motors having my less than 3 month old SMF and puck clutch removed. The sounds isn't all that bad, but the two together make driving almost impossible at lower speeds. Traffic jams, towns and car parks are a nightmare for me at the moment. Flywheel chatter is one thing but the noises that you get when you try to slip the clutch, as you do when reverse bay parking for example just don't sound nice. Jumping around in traffic because again, you can't slip or part engage the clutch. Some of this bad behaviour may well be down to the 6 puck clutch, but not all of it. I'd save up the extra pennies and do what I've done. Go for te OEM equivalent or a LUK DMF and Exeddy flywheel. If you have more pennies I'd spend them elsewhere I made a video and a topic somewhere in here that showed the relative noise comparison between the two. The noise as I say it ok really, just the difficulty driving really gets tiresome after a while.

Yeah common across all these boxes but much much less so in the CD009's. Most people do just go for a new one but I was quotes almost 3k in parts alone from Nissan for a rebuild and that didn't include workshop time either. Obviously that's the stealer price, but it's not a cheap fix. Even many garages won't tackle a gearbox rebuild.

just a pointer, these LEDs are the perfect shape but are too long the Zeds holders are 27mm and you wont find any for sale. You can modify these by chopping the ends off with a dremel or sanding them with a power sander. 501's are needed for all other bulbs but it's worth getting the correct "shape" of LED orientation.

Thanks keyser, il take a look at ok at that, see if I can feel/ see anything. The kdd flappy noise seems to match the burble of the exhaust if that makes sense? I did suspect a plastic cover somehow but it doesn't seem speed related, it can do it when accelerating from a standstill if you so it hard or from 60mph if you hit the right Rev range. I guess il just have to give everything. A push and see what moves. Failing that il stick a go pro under the bonnet with some log and go for a drive, see if I can see what's moving around.

Hey guys, Wondered if anyone could offer any sage advice on a noise I've recently started hearing. It's audible inside the cabin, not sure about outside and seems to be coming from the left of the engine Bay Area, kinda where the butterfly valve is when sat Inside the car. It happens under any acceleration level whether it be slowly or quickly but seems to happen somewhere around ,2800-3500 RPM in any gear. It sounds somehow like a flapping noise, but it's too quiet to be able to pick up on a recording, I thought maybe it was damaged belts but only happens when accelerating. Doesn't seem to do it when the cat is idle and you Rev it and from what I can tell it started after I fittes a new battery a few weeks ago: I can try to record the noise for you but it's pretty quiet as I say. Just wondered if anyone else have had this noise at all and could maybe offer some help. Thanks all

Car shouldn't go on rollers for a brake test. Can damage the diff. I specifically request it at every mot to make sure

Yeah, that's the point I was trying and failing to get across. Sometimes I drive all day without really noting it, other times it drives me nuts, then my standard of driving drops and makes the noise (and my juddering) worse! lol. Its liveable, but it never goes away.

Naa, not really. From further reading lately I think its more the 6 puck clutch rather than the flywheel that makes pulling away jerky, it just likes to grab suddenly, but obviously I cant confirm that having not had it fitted with a OEM DMF. There is noise in the cabin, obviously the lower RPM combined with more throttle gives more noise, which is part of the reason I pulled away reasonably quickly as I wanted a lot of throttle at low RPM's to make the noise as bad as possible. But in all reality, its liveable. Put it this way. Would there be so many of them for sale if they made cars horrible to drive and impossible to live with?? Its not like there's only 1 or 2 manufactures making them and they're aimed solely at 'race cars'.

Hey guys, ive been a little quiet on here lately, have been moving jobs and buying my first house, but that doesn't mean Zeditus has loosened its grip on me Several week ago I had a lightweight single mass flywheel and 6 puck clutch fitted to replace the very tired OEM units I had on the car. We all see loads of questions on what road to go down (OEM vs aftermarket, SMF vs DMF etc) so I took side by side videos of the two options so other people can at least hear the new noise the SMF makes and make up their own mind. My personal feelings are this. When the car starts up, the initial rev up is higher usually, this is nothing but pleasant however ! When pulling away, I am STILL yet to master doing this smoothly, its either rocket ship fast or slower but jumpy. You seem to have to keep the RPM above 2000 to be able to pull away smoothly, but I don't like doing this. The new noise from the single mass flywheel really isn't all that bad. Once you're above 2000 RPM there's no noise anyway and you can do this (just about) in 3rd gear at 30MPH or in 2nd, but that's more like 3000 RPM. Yes, my friends and my girlfriend comment on how the car sounds broken, but its something you're always aware of, you just adapt to being another one of the zeds noises. At cruising speeds there is 0 noise at all, the car is a delight to drive and obviously fitting a lighter flywheel does free up m ore of the engine BHP to spin the wheels rather than the heavy DMF. Its probably only 0.5BHP or something but it does feel better somehow... Any noise comparison's between your car and mine may not be exact however. The clutch and flywheel taken from the car were both OEM items, the clutch was the 2nd one the car has had but the previous owner hadn't changed the flywheel, this was well and truly dead and had obviously caused some damage to the clutch. Essentially, both were WELL worn. Hopefully this will help some people out when noise is a major worry. Also, mode if this is better suited elsewhere please move appropriately, wasn't too sure where to place it. Car originally has Nissan Dual Mass Flywheel and Original Clutch. This had covered approx 77,000 miles and was absolutely dead. Newly fitted kit was; Driftworks Superfly: http://www.driftworks.com/driftworks-superfly-350z-vq35de-lightweight-chromoly-flywheel.html XTD Stage 3, 6 Puck Clutch: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/XTD-STAGE-3-PADDLE-CLUTCH-KIT-NISSAN-03-06-350Z-INFINITI-G35-VQ35-/111471271891?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item19f4349fd3 (but I bought mine from a club member) If anyone would like to know anything else, please ask.

Arrived during the week and fitted today. Simple job, just need a size 12 spanner/socket for the old bolts and a size 13 for the new ones and a pair of needle nose pliers for releasing the bonnet latch wire. Looks fantastic

definitely not the clicky axle issue. You can se the noise is caused by the pads grabbing hold of the disk and then the calliper seems to jump, theirs an audible click clack as the pads hit the top and then the bottom of the calliper. Nothing to worry about IMO, the effect seems exaggerated as the car is off of the ground too.

Mine is hard wired, pretty easy. A proper dash cam has 3 wires. Positive, negative and another positive. The (normally) red and black wires you just wire to the cig lighter circuit, this gives the cam power when the ignition is turned on (it's a switched live) The other one I wired into the pink wire going up the passenger A pillar, this is always live. The camera microprocessor detects the power has come up on the cig lighter circuit and powers the camera. When you stop and turn off, that circuit drops low and the camera uses power on the pink interior light circuit for 15 seconds and then turns off and waits for the switched live to come up. It's a really quick job, 15 mons if you know what you're doing.

Reserved ATM by CJRamze but il let you know if if falls through.

Will be good to finally have someone filling the DRL market for HR bumpers I could never justify the cost of paying £80 for a set of the reflectors so never invested any time in building sets. Good work though

Cheers guys Il stick the reply here so as anyone else can see it as I've been asked it a few times The way I understand it, the 350 doesn't have a sophisticated system of alerting you of a blown bulb. Newer, posher cars can tell you on their in car screens specifically which bulb has blown, this is done using some gadgetry which measures resistance. Cars like ours simply flash that 'circuit', (ie, if your drivers sidelight blows, the indicators on that side all flash at 2x speed) this isn't by design, but just a useful quirk of the way the flasher relays work. Canbus bulbs work to 'defeat' the more advanced bulb warning systems, they have no effect on older warning systems such as ours. The way to do it is using load resistors. These are generally (for some reason) gold lumps of metal with one wire coming out of either side. You use scotch locks and connect them between the + and - wires that power the indicators, almost like a short circuit. All they essentially do is waste electricity, turning it to heat via resistance which keeps the flasher relays happy. To make this work correctly you should be looking at 4x 50w load resistors as you need one for each corner of the car. You also have to mount them directly to the cars inner metal body as they get rather warm. It is possible, and the explanation makes it sound worse than it is, I've done it previously with my Celica. The largest issue you will find is getting bulbs that are bright enough, the correct colour and that fit inside the light cluster. You can normally get 2/3 of these but I previously never found one that satisfied all 3 criteria. So to answer your last question, you want the highest powered bulbs you can find, amber seems to be a hard colour to get bright in LED world, so you will never have a bulb that's illegally bright, obviously stay at 12-14v rated bulbs as that's what your battery supplies. The bulbs I used were fine MOT wise (passed two of them), but we're basically invisible in the daylight as they were too dim. Hope that helps, feel free to ask more questions if needed

Cheers GM. I only have one full 350 kit left now, this is the last il be doing