cs2000

Sadly have recently moved house, too far away from my usual garage so had to do a pot lock selection. Turns out I was wrong in my blind choice!

Awww, really wanted that baseball cap! haha

Paint code is J2, or LHJ7. Both codes refer to the same colour, but different systems of code.

Imo I do not believe the fact he put your Zed on the rollers would have caused your brake line failure I wouldn't use that garage again for MOT's if I was you. Ok, that's good to know, and don't worry, I wont be! As I said, I'm not waiting to cause an y kind of mass panic, but just thought others should take a look at theirs, just on the off chance it saves it happening to someone else. Have PM's Abbey about some Stoptech lines, and Octet about something he sells, so will see about the prices and then pray the MOT place (is also a garage) will fit the parts for me and not charge me an arm and a leg as they insist on Nissan parts.

Yep, learnt that now, but I know quite a few club members have them fitted. Octet, il message you now. Question for you. Could the fact that the guy had the car on brake test rollers have caused the front pipes to fail? I'm thinking maybe surges of brake pressure being sent to the front as he is trying to stop on the rollers? Still not happy he did that.

Hey all, Don't intend to be causing any panic here, but I had my MOT today, the car failed due to a catastrophic failure of the HEL braided hose that quite a few of us have on the cars. My particular ones were from MWTech's group buy about 2 years ago. The tester put the car on the brake rollers (which I told him not to do, but he still thinks its the right thing) and when he applied full brake pressure the front nearside line popped and the pedal hit the floor. The tester isn't sure if the line itself split, or if it was where the line meets the coupler on the end. I have phoned HEL as the lines are under a lifetime warranty, but to be honest I don't want the lines anywhere near the car and have contacted Abbey to see about some Stoptech ones instead. I'm thankful it happened in the MOT bay and not 5 mins earlier when I was warning up the cats to it would go through emissions a little easier. The lines were fitted by Sly at Kaiser Motors so I have absolute faith they were done correctly. Reading other reports of exactly the same thing, the issue seems to be with the retention bracket they supply. After a while with the build up of road dirt, the lines can no longer slide around in the bracket (as they would need to do when you turn the wheels) and so they start to pull on the couplings. This then fails but apparently you can see stress marks in the outer cover of the line before this happened. Sly did also say that routing was tricky as the lines are rather short and didn't leave any options open for tidier/better routing. As I say, I don't want to cause hysteria, but please, if you have these lines, go and check them for stress and wear marks. If this happened 5 mins earlier id probably currently be parked on top of a roundabout or worse. There's plenty of stories of these lines failing at around 11,000 miles (as i found out this afternoon) since fitting (roughly where mine is), some have failed like mine in the MOT bay, others have failed at the ring. Safe motoring everyone...

Did the same, but took the female jack back into the centre cubby hole thing (where the phone holder sits) as it was more convenient for me. Was running wires already for iPhone charging s made sense.

I love the current CARS game, even though it has many many problems. It does feel a little cheap when they're already even thinking about CARS 2. This games barely been out a month. I know they've promised regular updates bla bla bla. Asd soon as the cash starts rolling in they will be onto the next game and wont care about this one. I too hope they don't get funded, but I'm 110% sure they will do...

Looks like you found a really good guy there. Shame there's not someone on the club who is capable of knocking these out. Really tempted to do mine, and I appreciate its a great deal but its still £6-700. Did he just fix what was broken then? or was he able to do anything to prevent it happening in the future, like what has been done on the CD009A's?

Ahhhh, its another American name. The paint code is WV2, which in the European market is "Gun Metal Grey, il add the US names onto the chart as that's happened a few times now. The official paint name from the manufacturers is "Diamond Graphite Titanium" hence why "Silverstone" didn't show anything useful. Chart has been updated, thanks for the continued feedback. Anything else anyone notices please say. (but I hope not as it takes an hour or so for every edit.... lol)

Sorry, the correct name is indeed Liquid Aluminum. Titanium isn't a colour. Silverstone is/was a Nissan colour, but only used in 1995-1996. I suspect that yours would be Blade or Universal, but it would depend on the year of manufacture as you could fall into either category if yours is a 2004 or a 2005. If its earlier, it will be Blade, if its later Universal. Noticed a few mistakes in the bar graph so will correct that when I can, probably tonight

Mine doesn't either. The lack of which appears to be "standard equipment"

Could be NATS failing, or could be a dodgy aerial for the key, this is around the ignition barrel.

Really like these things! Maybe worth trying one out.

Adrian flux insure me. Other people who promised to "quote me happy" and some other top names refused to insure me! I declared every single mod which is roof wrap in vinyl, power flow exhaust and the newer model led rear lights. Quote how a company can refuse to quote on that, I don't have a clue. Been with AF for 2 years now. Beat my renewal quote both times, have the lowest overall excess and allow me to drive other vehicles. Well worth a call, just don't use the online quote tool astou will get crazily high prices!

Two I've tried it before. Left the winters on into summer. They're very noisy when they get warm, stopping distances seemed to increase and the car would physically shift on corners as the softer rubber, combined with the larger tread blocks deforms more under you. Sadly I have to agree, get some new summers, don't waste time sticking the winters on just to get you by

And there is a perfect example of the benefits of an electric motor. Full torque available at all RPM's. Eventually the BHP and the aero benefits of the lambs win out though obviously.

I thought the same to be honest. The 370 has 30 whp less but probably weighs less. It does however lack the amazing chassis and gadgets of the GTR. Still worth seeing the guys face though! Could of course be a poor tune/setup on the GTR.

This is indeed the case.

Yes I know its not big or clever racing on a public road (and I feel sorry for the green 350 that gets left for dead...) . but an interesting video non the less. Both cars have some hefty engine mods I guess but funny to see the guys reaction when he waves bye bye to the '70 370z --- 670whp Fast Intentions TT Stage 2, 14psi, CJM Fuel System E85 GTR --- 700whp Upgraded Turbos, E85, Jacks Transmission, Tune

I didn't look at the thickness of the walls that were left, I trust the guide tool did a good job at keeping it aligned, but yeah the plastic gets everywhere! I used quite a lot of RTV on the inside of the new seals, obviously there is some overspill but only into the air gap/hole that the coilpack goes into (where the leakeing oil used to end up sitting) so shouldn't be an issue. I wouldn't think theres much pressure on that cam cover anyway, even a few mm's of plastic would take quite a few PSI to perforate so wouldn't personally have bothered with any extra RTV, but as rob says, its rated for high temps so shouldn't start melting, if it does, you've got much MUCH worse things going on!

Yeah, I forgot the fuse!

Lol I got scared. I did the metal fuel rail at one stage as it was clearly in the way bug fuel was pouring everywhere! That's stuff is expensive so I shoved it back in, did it up and called it a day! Lol. Took the car out today for a drive, all seemed good, maybe better then before, I did clean up loads of crap from the butterfly valve and inside the plenum though

Tried the BCM reset? oth windows down, open both doors, disconnect battery earth lead. Wait five minutes until BCM resets itself, reconnect battery terminal and viola we have lights in the interior again. Otherwise, somewhere their is a post about repairing the BCM. Its a single track that gets fried and you can bridge it with some wire. Alternatively yeah it's a replacement needed. I'm pretty sure you can use any BCM from any 350 however, you don't need a "box fresh" one from Nissan EDIT: found the guide http://www.dmcauley.com/350z/BCM_repair_350z_UK_2004.pdf

Well, half did mine yesterday. Did all the grommets on the passenger side but bottles it doing the drivers side, seemed like there was twice as many things to remove and I chickened out on that side. 24 hours is at about 1 today so fingers crossed that A, the thing still starts, and B, it doesn't leak anything from anywhere. I just have a bad feeling about it Edit: looks as though my concerns were unfounded. Had the car running (on driveway) for about 10 mins. Coolant temp is up to the usual and I have given it a few revs up to 2-3000 and one up to 5-6000. Can't see any evidence of any leaks externally and car sounds fine. I'm assuming of course that the leak in the coil pack hole has been fixed but I'm not removing them to check, they're a pain to get out! Will leave it running for another 10 peso to get everything nicely warm but seems to be good. Will need to pay sly a visit to do the drivers side though!