cs2000

I have some winter tyres for the Z, but to be honest, this year I've bought a 2004 vectra diesel. The Z is now my weekend car so if the weather turns sour it will stay parked up until it gets less so.

Im not even that good with a soldering iron, but I did it (and wrote the guide) and it's still going fine! It's a very simple fix, well worth doing. eBay link for relay http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/like/390813571045?limghlpsr=true&hlpv=2&ops=true&viphx=1&hlpht=true&lpid=108&device=c&adtype=pla&crdt=0&ff3=1&ff11=ICEP3.0.0&ff12=67&ff13=80&ff14=108&ff19=0

Bingo, glad you got it working and I guessed correctly hehe! Family expansion, congratulations but the Z must stay, its now part of your family...

Just adding this here, is a edited version of a message I sent to Zippypooz earlier I was one of the members who got the wing mirror protectors as a trial. Fitting Fitting the thinner "strip" was really easy. A quick spray just with water allowed me to roughly place it down and then slide to its final position. I then squeegeed the water out and it was stuck like glue. The top section was a bit of a pain in the ass, but this was down to the mirror shape and not the product. As the mirror in some places curves in 4 different directions I found it easiest to start in the larger side, get it placed down and stuck and then stretch the material to try to remove all of the folds that appear as you try to deform a 2D sticker onto a 3D shape. Each mirror probably took me about 5-6 mins and I have previous experience with wrapping things so it wasn't entirely new to me. Removing and re-applying the vinyl didn't really have any effect on how well it stuck so it was quite forgiving in that respect. Product The 'vinyl" as I will call it seems fine. Its very clear and didn't noticeably dull the shine on the vehicle. It seems plenty thick enough to deflect all of the usual peppering of stones that the wing mirrors get so I have no issues with how its made. As far as I could tell, the cut-shape was perfect. The Look From a few ft away, you essentially cant see it. Up close, you can obviously see the gap between the joins but this is inevitable. Even then, because the product is very clear it doesn't look ugly or really stick out. Its a small trade-off for knowing these areas are protected. Certainly looks better than the alternative, something like a bonnet bra!! On a larger area, bonnet, bumper etc obviously the join marks would be longer, but i feel it would be possible to mask some of the lines by using pre-existing folds and lines in the bodywork, this would lessen the look of the joins, but really im nit-picking here. All in all, Great product though , especially if fitted by someone who knows how to work properly with vinyl. I think some people MAY struggle doing this without previous wrapping type knowledge, but cant fault the product. As usual, the end result will come down to the skill and patience of whoever installs it.

How'd the coil pack change go mate? Curious to see whether you got this resolved or not

Technically, yes they could. 1. The lights aren't forward facing, they show to the side. YOu can only show orange to the side. 2. They don't dim when the headlights are turned on. Practically, they don't. I used to make and sell a few variations of these lights. I too still run another model which I never ended up selling which has indicators built into it aswell. Car has been driven about 20,000 miles and passed 3 MOT's with the LED's on so I wouldn't worry

I do have a JODB reader, but nowhere near ascot im afraid. Sounds to me that its more likely to be a coil pack fault. When I did the cam cover repair myself I did get oil down in the spark plug hole, but it burns off within a few mins. If youre saying yours did run, and then got in limp mode I doubt there's "too much oil in the spark well for it to fire"...

I did buy a 32mm deep socket, but one side wouldn't undo due to corrosion. Just took it to the closest garage, asked them to whip the wheel off and break the seal on the bolt, they then did it back up to torque then I drove home and undid it again myself to complete the job/ They even did it for free. Just get a cheap-ish torque wrench if you're not a regular user of tools. Wont be 100% accurate but its close enough.

No! Great looking drone, but there are some serious issues with the partwork. wrong instructions & incorrectly supplied parts all over the shop!

Yeah, I suspect m,ine have gone the other way. Looking at your last photo, they seem to come up the right hand side of that piece of metal and are affixed there. Il take a better look when I can, tomorrow hopefully and see what I can do. Obviously if they need unbolting I'm going to have to call them back and ask if they will re-arrange the fitting. The drive back was only a few miles and the wear is already evident. Not too bad yet but as the lines are brand new, even a small scuff is very visible. In the mean time, thing il look at getting some of those Goodridge Phantom G-Stop lines.

Yes, it is currently the HEL lines I'm afraid as they were replaced under warranty. I'm looking at replacements. I did order some Stoptech ones, but had to cancel when I realised how much the end bill was going to be. They will hopefully get re-ordered next month but obviously cant drive the car with rubbing brake pipes. SIMPLES: Go back to the garage and ask them to fit the lines properly: Goodridge is the way to go: Lol I know that's the "correct" thing to do, but I was hoping it was something simple that I could just do myself as its a hassle getting it looked at by them due to the opening times. They probably never used enough P clips. So a DIY would be the hassle free route. So, any tips on where I should mount the P clips? They seem to have used 2 on each side?

Yes, it is currently the HEL lines I'm afraid as they were replaced under warranty. I'm looking at replacements. I did order some Stoptech ones, but had to cancel when I realised how much the end bill was going to be. They will hopefully get re-ordered next month but obviously cant drive the car with rubbing brake pipes. SIMPLES: Go back to the garage and ask them to fit the lines properly: Goodridge is the way to go: Yeah, I do like the goodridge ones, especially the "Goodridge Phantom G-Stop" version, it was just the cost, on top of the bill I have already which would push it to close to £600 in total. Il get them sorted eventually, just have to run the HEL's for now. The standard braided version goodridge sell isn't too bad at about £130 though. Lol I know that's the "correct" thing to do, but I was hoping it was something simple that I could just do myself as its a hassle getting it looked at by them due to the opening times.

Yes, it is currently the HEL lines I'm afraid as they were replaced under warranty. I'm looking at replacements. I did order some Stoptech ones, but had to cancel when I realised how much the end bill was going to be. They will hopefully get re-ordered next month but obviously cant drive the car with rubbing brake pipes. The bill was exacerbated as the fitting between the braided lines and the cars hard line had seized. Despite them trying to free it, the pipe sheared when they tried to undo it so they have to fabricate and for a new hard brake line on the offside.

Hey all, Well, after this whole load of balls http://www.350z-uk.com/topic/101042-hel-braided-brake-lines-failure/ I finally got the car back tonight Paid the garage over the phone and collected at 8PM due to work commitments. On the way back I noticed a clattering noise from the wheel area, still cant figure that one out, but I noticed what looked like some abrasion on the outer coating of the braided brake lines. Upon further inspection; When the wheels are on full left lock, the nearside hose rubs against the inner side of the wheel, but when it is on full right lock its stretched tight, leaving me no room for adjustment Offside tube doesn't seem to have the same issue, but its very close. Does anyone have any picture of their braided lined being fitted/fitted so I can see a "tried and tested" route? I could take it back to the garage, but the times I work, combined with the times they open kinda don't allow that Plus they did me a favour getting me out of the mess I was in before so don't want to complain too much. I'm sure a more sensible routing path would solve the issue, just cant see anything obvious and don't want to mess around with them too much! Thanks for any replies

If they have a specific figment, it's for a DE. Came off of my 2004. sorry, should have mentioned that!

Yep, you only have to inform the DVLA for a permeant change Its worth telling the insurers though, we all know what they can be like...

I have a 2004 GT DE and yes initial cold idle is rather loud. As for idle speeds, measured these about a year ago. Look at RPM/Min (4th line down) Cold http://vid142.photobucket.com/albums/r103/computerstar2000/226D4072-F1D8-48E8-A929-14EBDBEB00EA-4624-000002D30183FE92.mp4 Warm http://vid142.photobucket.com/albums/r103/computerstar2000/0A4F61B6-335E-49C9-A708-154930D524EC-4624-000002D3135E007E.mp4

It wouldn't surprise me, but can't confirm. Wiring harnesses are often made as a one size fits all job and just what's needed is connected. Example is an old old car of mine, a 206GTI had the plugs by the gearstick for an auto box, but just not connected.

Hey all, Had this fitted to my car in the early part of the year but found it didn't fit well with my driving style. It has covered about 2000 miles max so is reasonably new really. May be good for anyone wanting to drift, or who track their car as a 6 puck clutch can be a little grabby but can deal with more power and won't slip as easily. Photos as below. Asking price is £80 including postage but not 100% sue what it's worth so offers are accepted. Please post in here rather then PM's so everyone knows where we are. Cheers

This. Congratulations though, looks a lovely car. Not jealous at all, honest.....

I'm in the same boat currently, but am being given a car allowance. I'm probably going to get shot here, but think currently my money is on a Kia Pro C'eed 1.6 Diesel SE Tech. Has got all the gadgets of cars costing 30k+, but costs 22 ish, returns somewhere around 70MPG and has the same BHP as the equivalent engines from Renault or Citroen. Not the sexiest idea, but the most practical one ive found for me anyway.

Completely random, but funny find tonight on Autotrader. What car am I looking at exactly. I know its an S2000, but the title says otherwise... http://www.autotrader.co.uk/classified/advert/201508136024699?postcode=ip52eq&sort=default&search-target=usedcars&radius=1500&model=350_z&onesearchad=used%2Cnearlynew%2Cnew&page=1&channel=cars&quicksearch=true&make=nissan&logcode=p

Managed to speak to a reputable local garage yesterday who were sympathetic to my plight! They have arranged for the car to be collected tomorrow, transported to them and then unfortunately they're closed for 7 days. When they return on Sept 3rd they will fit the replacement lines from HEL (in the new fitment style), bleed the brake system and hopefully put it through an MOT. Fingers crossed it passes this time without something else going pop! God only know what the bill will be in the end, at this point I don't care, I just want the car back As I have recently (12 months ago) moved house, I haven't found a reputable garage, I'm going off of recommendations from family in the area here so hopefully they come through. They're an independent, family run, BMW specialist not Nissan, but for the work I need doing it doesn't matter. Maybe they will be good for general garage work in the future, time will tell...

At the end of the day, as has been said. ANY manufacturer has a failure rate. Braided lines are prone to issues, hence why no car manufacturer fits them as standard. It was just that when I looked around, it seemed top be more common with HEL lines than Goodridge (for example). Whether that because there's more out there seeing as they're 1/3rd of the price I cannot say. The braid is the key part as the inner liner (made of Teflon) cant hold the brake fluid pressure. If you have a weakness in the braid, its going to go pop. What happened with mine was a failure between the banjo fixing and the line itself, like it wasn't crimped properly. @Rabbitstew - I think the most likely cause for failure is abrasion as the lines are held in place with the P clips, so as the lines on your bike will be fitted differently I wouldn't worry. Still give them a look-over, but probably be fine. For HEL's part, they couriered me two brand new lines next day. They have indeed switched from using the 'banjo' ends to right angled screw-in connectors that mount directly into the Brembos, much like the OEM design but without the metal block. IMO, the lines were too short. When Sly fitted them I remember him saying there were very short and the replacements I have been shipped are at least 30% longer and with the proper connector. Perhaps I got a bad batch before, or perhaps they found an issue and rectified it, can only guess really. Essentially, exactly what I was trying to say all along. Don't panic, just check the lines for signs of wear or stress (especially when wheels are on full lock). If all looks good, carry on with your life.

I get the feeling the OP doesn't have a VW caddy van in this colour, but wanted it for another use.