ho02pey90

Nice work...

Thanks mate first time iv used a machine polisher and went well!

A lot of work but well worth it..mine need to be done as well...yours looks brilliant. :thumbs:

Thanks mate its hard work but it pays of in the end!

Hi guys and girls! went on a bit of a spending spree last week and went detailing crazy! haha, ill list the products that i used and what order they were used in took me and my mate about 10 hours!

Started of by washing the car with Meguiars gold class using a washing mitt and cleaned the wheels with meguiars alloy wheel cleaner with an alloy wheel brush cleaner

once all cleaned i drove up and down the street to get most of the water off then dried with meguiars micro fibre towels

once all dry we pulled the car inside the garage and started to clay bar the car using meguairs clay kit with the meguiars detailer

once all the car was clayed the surface was nice, smooth and clean! i was surprised how much muck and grit the clay bar pulled off the car!

now it was time to start the polishing so i got my new meguiars v220 machine polisher out and started with the stage 1 meguiars paint cleaner polishing it all in using the yellow polishing pad then wiping of to buff up by hand on 1 panel at a time

same steps repeated with the stage 1 paint cleaner again but with the meguiars stage 2 polish

now for the stage 3 meguiars deep crystal carnauba wax, i read a few reviews on this wax and people were put of by it but i thought i would give it a try and use stage 1,2,3 together. i worked it all in with the machine polisher with the black buffing pad on, i left it on the whole car for around an hour then applied the smear test and it was ready to get buffed off, i went round the car twice to make sure all the wax was buffed off.

now it was time to clean the windows and head/rear lights using the meguairs next gen glass cleaner what smelt really nice! haha and get rid of any of the polish or wax that had spilt on to the windows.

I then applied the meguiars tyre gel and was very impressed by the gloss look on the tyre.

i then applied the trim restore to the grill in the bottom of the bumper and to the plastic trim on the wing mirror plates.

and finally to finish off i polished the exhaust with meguiars metal polish and some wire wool.

Earlier in the week i also used the headlight restoration kit as one of the headlights was fading and it worked a treat!

here are some pics just after the car was washed and dried and then the next morning all complete!

AFTER THE WASH AND DRY

ALL COMPLETE

Iv just done the ipod hack this morning and it only took a couple of hours was a really easy job following the guide and providing you have the rite tools for the job!

Fantastic job lads! gives inspiration to us who are not to clever with fiddly jobs! haha, is the rear plastic trim surround that covers the speakers hard to remove, could you point me in the rite direction of removing the trim ?

i would be up for this i live down the road in sunderland

The discs were meant to be ebc turbo grooved discs and i bought them of a guy on ebay and he is accepting the return so im going to get some discs from alex

iv located the problem, the discs that i bought i suspect are actually fake, when putting the wheels on and set discs fixing against the hub they are touching the inside of the calliper as shown in the picture below leaving the gaps between the pad and the disc uneven on both sides. I'm going to contact the guy i bought the discs off and ask for a full refund and buy some proper 100% discs of ZMANALEX (alex)

pretty relieved that its nothing major but in a way pretty miffed about the guy selling me these discs!

Thanks for the help guys!

Hmm perplexing this one for sure

 

Where I would go if you haven't given up or petrol bombed the car

 

When you and your dad wear bleeding the brakes was fluid freely flowing on each down stroke of the brake Pedal? I assume not????

 

I think your ABS control has a valve jammed or an air lock.

 

Also if you loosen the bleed nipples on the calipers (engine running) does the fluid keep coming out under pressure without the brake pedal pressed?

When we were bleeding the calipers the fluid was coming out and releasing the caliper off the disk, i will try releasing the nipple whilst the engine is running tomorrow see if it does flow out. I think the pressure is keeping there keeping the pads pressed on but its not releasing the caliper, do you know how the fluid releases the caliper from the disk ? If i knew this i could trace it down and see what the problem is

What happens if you start again? Like, right from the start. Remove a wheel, take the pads out, push the pistons back in, replace the pads, check fluid, rinse and repeat. All with the top off the reservoir, of course

 

I know you said you bled the calipers, but try starting from scratch and see what happens.

Think i will try this tomorrow mate but im going to have to bleed the callipers to get the pads of vecause they are locked on solid

just got in the car there and the pads are still solid on the discs, but i can pump the brake pedal about an inch continuously and it doesn't go solid at the point where i cannot pump it anymore, when i was bleeding the nipples this morning i was pumping it in the car and my dad was loosening then tightening the nipples and the pedal was going solid to a point where it could not be pushed down, could this mean there is a seal gone somewhere ? there doesn't seem to be any fluid leaking from the calliper but i have not had the pads out to look closer.

anybody got any more suggestions with the new information iv provided

Muchos gracias

You don't mean Evans Halshaw Nissan next to DFS on the A1231 do you

Jesus. They're useless.

 

Seriously. Call Falcon Performance in M'boro. They have lots of experience with Zeds.

i would have no way of getting the car up there mate or i would do that

Pistons moved freely without any resistance with the cap still on

 

Something doesn't seem right there, how the hell there wasn't any resistance is crazy.

 

Try the suggestion made by Ebized and see if that fixes the problem otherwise like you say it's a visit to a garage. Not sure in Sunderland who would be best, hopefully somebody will suggest a reputable place

 

Good luck I feel for you in this one, highly annoying!

im gonna go for nissan mate as a lot of the garages round my way are meant to be pretty poor hopefully there some decent lads at the nissan garage

Falcon Performance in Boro.

Failing that, I 'may' have some free time at the weekend and I can pop up and help

thanks for the offer mate but gonna take it to nissan tomorrow as I'm desperate for my car to be up and running

Having made an enquiry, I am advised that leonk has identified the likely problem with the ABS.

 

Firstly, disconnect the switch from the ABS pump and see what happens.

Secondly: disconnect the battery for 30 mins.

Third: Do the resets.

 

If you are not comfortable doing this work yourself you may be best off getting your car to an independent garage - preferably one that knows ZEDs. Not sure where you are but if you post your location up hopefully we can point you to a good garage

tried doing all that mate and no luck think I'm just gonna get nissan to look at it, hopefully not to expensive taking it to them but if it gets fixed thats the main thing

Thanks

If all four wheels are stuck solid it can only be one of two things.

 

1. All the pads are too tight a fit in the caliper and are not returning, possible but unlikely as you woud have had to hammer them in to get it to lock up solid, normally they will just bind and need a bit filing off as someone has mentioned.

 

I was going to say the same, there'd be no way of getting new pads in if the pistons are engaged without removing the reservoir cap.

 

OP how did you get the pads in, with force? Did you try and move the pistons out to get the pads in?

 

Where are you based? Maybe another member locally could pop along to help? I'd be happy to if local?

i didn't use force all i did was push the pistons back in with a screw driver and they went back freely, the pads slotted in pretty easy, i live in sunderland, I'm thinking of just taking it to a garage, if i just loosen all the nipples off will that release all pressure on the callipers ?im going to have to see if i can get somewhere that will pick the car up or get someone who has a towing bar to take me to a garage.

ps feel like throwing a petrol bomb through the window screen of the car

If all four wheels are stuck solid it can only be one of two things.

 

1. All the pads are too tight a fit in the caliper and are not returning, possible but unlikely as you woud have had to hammer them in to get it to lock up solid, normally they will just bind and need a bit filing off as someone has mentioned.

 

2. The master cylinder or the A.B.S unit is not allowing fluid to return back thus pressurising the system when you press the brake pedal. To test this jack up one corner and release (undo ) slightly the bleed nipple to relieve the pressure. Don't press the brake pedal. Try to now rotate that wheel. If it moves freely your problem lies in the master cylinder or A.B.S unit. Pressure bleeding MAY resolve the problem.

 

Hope this helps

i had the car up on the jack stands this morning took all the wheels off i took the reservoir cap off and bleed the callipers in the correct order after doing this the wheels where able to move, when i re fitted the wheels and took of the jack stands and went to pull away same thing happened all wheels were locked on i can just drive but you can hear the brakes locked on.

I'm thinking of just releasing the pressure on the callipers so the brakes move free and getting a local garage to come pic the z up and let them have a look at it as i don't seem to be getting anywhere at the moment.

I'm looking for 1 pin to go through the back calliper and also the metal plate to keep the pad in, does anyone know where i could get these parts ?

Many thanks in advance

Andy

How hard have you tried to move the car? I left mine on axle stands for a week with the wheels off while i detailed the car. The first time i tried to move the car it wouldnt have it, (using just the clutch) I had to give it a few k of revs and force it to move. Maybe worth giving it some more ooomph and see how you get on. Well thats what id do.

iv tried pretty hard twice and its just burning the clutch there definitely seized on I'm gonna take a look at them now

Do to have after market wheels on your car mate?

 

Noticed you've been looking for rays.?

nope looking to get some rays iv got the standard GT wheels on at the moment I'm looking to get some rays and get them sprayed in gun metal grey possibly or silver not sure yet

You need to have the brake fluid reservoir open when changing pads and keep checking it as the fluid level will increase and even overspill!!

If you haven't done that and still managed to replace front/rear discs pads then you may have damaged the inner seal of the caliper piston pushing the piston back.

The outer seal is dust seal and it would be cracked already unless your calipers are spanking new.

Make sure fluid level is at max and lid on. Bleeding nipples all tight. Get somebody to push the brake and check the calipers for leakage. If all ok bleed your brakes....think it's nr/nf/or/of or the exact opposite. I am sure there is a guide in the forum anyway.

yea i forgot to release the brake reservoir cap this must have caused the brakes to lock I'm going to get the car on jack stands this morning get the wheels of and have a look see what the damage is will let everyone know what the crack is

All brakes or just the handbrake? Can you spin the front wheels by hand?

all brakes are locked on i tried spinning front and back separately and both don't have any play, it looks as if the pads are locked onto the discs

Hmmm just reread

 

Why it it above max after you've lost fluid? Air lock?

i can only guess that when i removed the old pads they were about half worn down and when i replace with new pads and pushed the pistons rite back there was less space in the brake lines, when i replace the rear disks and pads the wheels moved fine but when i replaced the front that when they must have locked up, would an air lock cause the brakes to lock on ?

evening all

i started this morning 8:00am taking my brake discs of front and rear and replaced them with ebc slotted and grooved discs all round and also ebc red stuff pads, i started with the rear then moved onto the front just as i was finishing the front i noticed something dripping under my car i checked the brake reservoir and it had overflowed and leaked everywhere i soaked up what was left of it till it went to just below max, as i put the wheels on lowered back down the car off the axle stands got in and started her up tried to pull away but it wouldn't move off i want to move i have to really force it because the brakes seem to be locked any idea how this has happened and what my options are to solve it ?

Many thanks in advance really stuck here!

350z rays alloys wanted any condition as long as there not buckled no tyres required as i have tyres on my alloys at the moment