MDMetal

Sounds similar to me, I checked out the PCV this weekend and it's quite oily when removing, I'm going to see about checking inside the plenum to see how clean it is in there, maybe an oil catch can is a good investment. I'll have to read up on the rocker cover and see how to check for issues there.

5w30 from halfords *hides* what do people recommend? 5w40 perhaps?

What's the fix? Mile wise It's actually been standing for awhile but 6 months ago it was my daily and had the same issue, certainly had many happy years previously but the fact it's persisting makes me worry. How serious is this issue?

For the past few years it feels like I need to completely refill the engine oil every 3-4 months. I'm not seeing any puddles of oil or odd smoke so not really sure where it's going. I used to suspect the sandwich plate to my extra oil cooler wasn't tightened properly but I fixed that awhile back so it's a mystery again. Anyone have any thoughts that I should check for?

Awesome sauce! I've foolishly agreed to move house but this kit is still on the cards! Especially since I'll have a nice double garage to play in!

Claybar makes such a difference I claybared my 650i last weekend which is obviously much newer but looking forward to giving the 350z some love, it's never had a proper detail really just lots of washes so time for a treat!

My wallet is burning! How bad is it likely to be?

What's tight the pad against the disc or the top and bottom of the bad against the caliper?

I assume he didn't check the work prior to you picking it up then? Frankly I wouldn't care who did the work if it left unchecked it's still the owners mistake. I never understand how these things happen surely everyone involved knew it was @*!#, why not just come clean right away

If it helps I bought the moog ones as they were slightly cheaper and they were fine. I did need to use the cones from the existing arms but that was easy to do. Did it all myself with now issues and purchased from Adrian above! Car feels noticably nicer and no nasty clunk, this was a year ago now

Wheel bearings are easy to check, lift the car up and if you can wobble the wheel.....

Problem is the point of the original nsx was a reliable affordable supercar, these days supercars are reliable so your now down to badge snobbery and rightly or wrongly Honda aren't at the top of the list

There are some other posts around, I can't recall the specifics but it amounted to if you mess it up you at best need a new dome light and at worst the body control module goes pop. I had to replace the dome light when I shorted it with some duff leds luckily the body control module was fine. Depends what you fancy doing, your going to need to I clip the headlining anyway and if you've already fitted an aftermarket head unit then you've had the centre console out. I opted to do that and run the reverse wire up so it works as intended but as long as it works anyway you choose is fine!

Well also if you had £35k why would you pick this? Most people would be looking at an M4 etc, just don't see what they're selling them based on and again lots of the weird style choices roll down and pollute the base models which surely aren't being sold to kids?!

I hate the wings I also hate the rear plastic hex vents which are on all models they just look daft and push the waist of the car up too high, the base models look even more ridiculous. I'm sure they're fun but they look fussy and over styled. I think the z has aged so well because its fairly minimalist there's little to hate about it!

I'm not sure really apart from a bargaining chip what the worry about a set of missed stamps from 8 years ago is? Before I serviced mine I took it to a great indy but frequently forgot to get the book stamped, a few owners down the line and that detail is lost and all you know is there's no stamps! Realistically it's been fine for the past x years so it's not a big deal. Condition is key, by all means use this as a lever but if the condition is excellent then go for it, you'll easily waste the £1000 on a car that isn't in great condition so don't save money to just spend it later. Check underneath for rust the w brace is usually easy to see. Listen for metallic clunks at low speed when driving especially over bumps, listen for a smooth start up etc. If you do go see it be prepared to walk away if it's not for you! They're not in short supply so don't be fooled into thinking this is a one off chance!

We can't all have weber kits on our 350s! Don't suppose anyone knows how good the fitting on the weber is? I'm super excited still

Technically not a repair the leather is the same strength as before it just looks better, it's still worth being careful getting in and out the car and ensuring a tear doesn't form!

Good stuff! I opted against using the tat light panel as there's lots of nasty stories about what happens when it goes wrong but it's all good!

Part of one of the kidney brackets on the w brace? https://goo.gl/images/NKHVYs

I'm half tempted but they're going to dimmer than the standard lights aren't they?

It's pretty easy, get the car up, wheels off both sides, get the bolts off the wheel hubs and then off the sub frame. You can usually just slacken the two bolts in the furthest side of the subframe so you can wiggle them off, saves the subframe falling off and the faff of putting it back on! Do check to see If your arms have the cones otherwise you'll need to pop the ones off your old arms You'll definitely need a breaker bar or torque wrench!

If it's the linear 7 pin it's a bog standard electrical connector look for jst 7 pin, they're a few quid on ebay etc. Very few connectors in cars are proprietary it's just a pain to find out exactly what they are

It's a standard connector I picked some up off ebay it's an easy mod the navara workshop manual has the pin diagrams you only need three wires (positive, negative and reverse) if you've installed a new head unit then you'll already have those wires no doubt exposed, pop the headliner out slightly and it's all tucked neatly away!

You can pop the car into reverse without the engine on and use a multimeter to validate the cable