MDMetal

Things are more mod based on the 350z, parts generally aren't coded so it's easier to do things. That's the plus/minus of the situation. Eg If you want auto folding mirrors there's a mod sold by flyboy on the forum which you can add to your electronics Throttle response you can buy a kit to change the curve Want an auto dimming mirror? Install one from another Nissan etc Most things are quite easy and only remapps and tuning are things that need to be done professionally, the rest is just getting your hands dirty

The market is pretty clear as to the value of the e46 vs the 350z you can debate which is really nicer and everyone will have their own opinion but the market is pretty clear. Unless your holding something unique or something rare then it's down to what the wider world considers worth putting money into and classic bmws have for awhile now been safe bets

Yah the weight is out, still doesn't spring I think it's the hinges need oiling, it creaks now heh

They sold less of the cars so there isn't the same demand for mod's it's not a time issue it's a numbers one. While the looks are subjective I think for most people the 350 sits in with a set of "classic" japanese car and the 370 is a little bit further away from that. Time will tell I guess

Yup exactly this, the appeal of the 350 is the cost to entry for the power given and the availability of mods and parts, the 370 fairs a bit worse there and the looks are subjective, otherwise what's the real difference? They're very similar to drive, one has a slightly nicer interior and slight more modern styling but they're niche. I see the 350's having larger demand and therefore when prices bottom a higher demand.

I think if you compare the same age cars then they'll get pretty close in price eventually. What are you calling a big drop? I have a BMW 650i Gran coupe it was £89,000 new 5 years ago, i bought it for less than 1/3rd of that, big engines cars will always drop fast.

Seems doubtful, cheapest 370z's on autotrader are still 10k which is someway above a 350. Ultimately they're all big engined cars which seem to put people off these days. I bought my 350z for 8k 7 years ago so even if it's halved in value it's still a bargain and it's taken 7 years to halve it's value. The newer the car the steeper the drop.

The 350 is at the bottom of it's depreciation, it can't get any lower and good examples are now harder to find so command a slight premium, meanwhile the 370 is still falling and is going to have a ways to go. Is yours new? If so it's always going to have a steep drop.

Good to hear! I'm pondering an orangey yellow on top of my red or maybe a deep maroon which will blend better round the edges. Are you making sure the paint work underneath is as perfect as possible?

Which brand did you go with? I watch a lot of the guy on the wrap channel who sings the praises of avery that said the UK 3m is meant to be very good vs what they get over the pond

I believe the bridgestones were the 50a? The falkens I want to say 452? They would have been about 5-6 years ago so not the recent ones people moaned about. I read all the reviews I bought the mpss for that reason I was just disappointed. Like everything it's diminishing returns. I'm not saying they're not a great a tyre or any of the reviews are wrong just I didn't put them on and think wow I was expecting more. As for the runflats it's the new 6 with adaptive suspension floats like a cloud for me. I read plenty of articles when it came time to replace them about people swapping out the flats and it was something I seriously considered until I read a piece pointing out everyone who is doing this is driving older bmw, very few people with new cars are swapping out runflats and it's symptom of the older cars not being setup from factory to best use them. So i stuck with them and glad I did.

I think you'll find its incredibly useful to hear both sides of the coin. All too often people post about x or y totally transforming the car when your average person finds there's really not much difference at all. Biggest difference in tyres I've felt was going from the original Bridgestone to the falkens it had, that's a fact in terms of my own personal experience are mpss better? Without a doubt all the reviews and comparisons say that but is it a huge step for me from what I had before? No. Biggest single thing that 'transformed the car' for me so far is flyboys airbox mod, that smoothed out all the throttle response and just generally made the car feel more complete. That said I don't track the car I don't race it I go for a few spirited drives in dry conditions. People can use that info as they please. Not sure what's wrong with runflats they feel absolutely fine, the car isn't built to be flung round corners it glides smoothly and happily along on them.

I have mps which I fitted years ago after my falkens, I honestly didn't find them that much better, they are better yes but I don't push the car to its limits. I have good year Eagle f1 asymmetric 3s on my 650i gc and they feel great but then it's a bigger car and they're runflat so not much help

Keep us posted this is on my to do list

So even tho the valve rattles chances are it's broken? Or is it indicativr that there's just too much oil leaking in for it to cope?

Interesting! Which is the high vac side the drivers?

So I took the upper plenum off and found this, looks oily, obviously it should be spotless is this bad or really bad? The pcv looks a bit oily so some of it is coming from that I guess, the valve rattles when shaken so its working? I'm thinking the spark plug rings are leaking that's a common fault I can address? Would a catch can be much help?

Well you could use the money to buy some... I'd love to see pics at any rate

Haven't got the orange seats but would love to see the frost ones and might be very tempted to buy them off you.

Amazing stuff! Did you remove any panels prior to wrapping? How was your paint work before wrapping? I have so many chips and scratches

Wow, so how long did the wrap take and how many mistakes did you make? It's something I've always fancied doing over the winter or something, from the photos it looks superb!

Yah looks like that's what they're reading so the heater circuit is fine. I assume there's no way to test the rest of the sensor? So ruled out the heater circuit, either the sensor itself is broken or the oil is causing issues or the hfcs just really really don't like them

Continuing my little saga of trying to tidy up faults.. My battery died about two weeks ago and the reset my cell so I figured after a year or so of ignoring to see what the current codes were... P0158 O2 Sensor Circuit High Voltage (Bank 2 Sensor 2) P1166 - HO2S 2 bank 2 - minimum voltage So its the same sensor. I lifted the car and removed both rear sensors they both look very sooty and very black. I'd seen a video where someone was saying you should be able to measure resistance across the two black wires, well I tried the black and the grey and the black vs everything else, infinite resistant is that a valid test? Given my issues with using lots of oil and looking at photos of oil contaminated sensors is it possible that my oil issues caused the sensors to fail and not the hfcs? If so sorting the oil issues and replacing the sensors is a sensible direction rather than just ignore the sensors?

Works on any car surely? I have a 54 plate and I switched the functionality

I'll be checking the rocker gaskets and spark plug o rings I guess! Out of interest if it is burning some oil would that explain the HFC's throwing cel's occasionally? As the exhausts will contain slightly more oil vapour than expected?