MDMetal

Just got the parcel, had a quick peek and they look gorgeous, lots of depth in the weave. Hoping to fit this weekend if I can give the car a good wash and the weather stays not rainy

Pm'd

In which case swapping the battery from the 2nd key to the first key solves most problems!

Yah, I've had a read and it's really not clear, the guides are for keyless entry which I've done and work fine, my issue is the key not disarming the immobilizer, sounds like there's a second procedure for that which only a dealer can do, making the keyless entry procedure kind of pointless!

No thoughts anyone?

https://www.dropbox.com/s/379cgwyrrg5za7n/WP_20141029_001.jpg?dl=0 https://www.dropbox.com/s/o9h6yj537hnpjej/WP_20141029_002.jpg?dl=0 That's what I see in the key? ALso if I just swap the batteries will the working key remember all it's details?

Looks like its a key/immobiliser issue.Tried again tonight, followed the guide procedure exactly, 6 turns on-off, hold unlock, hit lock 3 times, turn on off again, the car replies correctly. The key unlocks the car but won't disarm the immobiliser. What's wrong? should a correctly cut key just need the pairing procedure to work ok?

For awhile now my cars been unhappy unlocking and locking itself, dying key battery I thought. When I bought the car it had two keys although the guy said the second one had never been paired just cut. So this morning I got the second key out and did the pairing procedure. (6 turns on-off, hold unlock, hit lock 3 times then release) all seemed to go well I removed the key, it now locked and unlocked the car fine however when I tried to start it nothing, just turning over chur chur chur sounds, CD player went into secure mode. I tried again a few times, then tried the old key, cd player works fine car refuses to start again, I'm wondering if this is now battery related or if I flooded the engine. Left the car for awhile, tried again, same result. Finally just before calling a taxi I tried again and it started. However I'm concerned about what might happen tonight. I may have pulled the key out at the end instead of the final step to do Off-on-off again. Could this cause the key to work fine but the car to refuse to start with it? I couldn't understand why the old key worked and the new one didn't in regards to the cd player. What does the car need to start? I'd assumed it was just the key? but does it need power in the key to unlock to car when it's in the ignition? I'd assumed if a key turned in the ignition it was all good but maybe it requires the electronic aspect which is what worries me. I don't want to change the battery in the old fob until the new one works! Anyone have any thoughts? Would be greatly appreciated!

When I bought mine it had a stubby of sorts, rubbish reception, got the Honda one everyone raves about and the reception is night and day so do check what you've currently got

Absolutely but it's still not right, you wouldn't accept having to pump up your tyres every few weeks with a slow puncture, you'd want it sorted I'm a fussy guy when It comes to my car, taken a lot of care, effort and money to make sure it's always kept in tip top condition and everything is looked after, this is the one spot on an otherwise faultless 10 year old car. Realising I sound totally anal now!

I do have a reader I just don't think I should be resetting engine fault codes randomly, certainly if I sold the car any potential buyer would be wary "yah sure the light comes on a few times but just ignore it, its fine honest" I've emailed Berks to see what they would recommend from their POV, shall report back then hopefully!

The old ones had rusted to nothing so they aren't going back on! Anyway refitting the old ones would also cost. My bug bear isn't that I have to spend a little cash it's that the system should just work, when asking about potential issues with these nobody said "by the way your engine light will be stuck on forever unless you then spend a ton more money doing another 50 things" Guess I should just get the things disabled

For me the times that have triggered it are very short journeys and then jumping in after a few minutes with the engine off (think driving to the shops, buying milk then jumping back in)

Yes Cats sorry, I bought the lot together so foolishly see them as a single piece even though obviously they aren't! I don't suppose Berk recommend anything?

Thanks, yah I'm not really interested in any mod's just fixing an issue caused by a new component which wasn't meant to cause any issues spending anymore money on the problem would amount to throwing more after the exhaust. Makes me think I should have just gone with a stock exhaust that works not something fancy which sounds nice but needs more additional fixes and tweaks

How much does this remap cost? Not sure I like the idea of disabling the sensors, why do the remap if your just going to disable the sensors anyways?

Hi guys, this is starting to bug me a bit. Last Dec I bought the above system (minus spacers) and had it fitted, all went well then a few weeks later the engine light pops on. The usual O2 sensor issues, garage said the issue was probably the new exhaust, I asked around here and people suggested the spacers are needed to help trick the sensors into working correctly. So I bought some but didn't fit them right away as the light went out for a weeks then, then came back on for a few weeks, then went off for a few months. Anyway its back on again so had the garage fit the spacers and lo and behold the lights popped back on even after clearing all the fault codes. Anyone else have this issue? Is it worth replacing the sensors? Driving round with the engine light on is really bugging me!

I assume someone somewhere does them but vented front arches would be nice, the only ones I've seen look horrid!

I've just had mine fitted and it sounds perfect, deeper, rounder more depth and power, very happy indeed

Have to say this combo is amazing, I'm really loving it!