MDMetal

It's the TD618AS unit, I followed the guides on the forum and was all straight forward. Haven't got all the aps setup but I'm using sygic for the nav as it allows maps to be downloaded. The satnav sound is very but I believe thats a common issue on android devices anyways. I need to try some other maps. Otherwise it's all good! Not sure what to sya other than I really love it! Find a facia that fits is a pain mind. I got a standard one and spent a few hours cutting bits out to make it all fit neatly!

I've an xtrons unit which I'm loving, wired the camera in as well all good need to create some space for a USB hub to plug more stuff in!

I have this system with berk HFC's, lovely sound (was also worried about droning etc but this is a perfect setup) and I paid a lot more for a new one! Lucky someone!

Woooo *excited*

Thats what mine usually does

Sounds fine, I had an issue with a leak where the pressure would drop over 3-4 months but as long as I filled it up all was well. Hopefully fixed it now! Keep an eye on the level otherwise sounds good.

With your strut bolt drill a pilot hole in it and use one of those handy reverse thread removal tools. If you cut the head off how do you know a thread had broken? I'd soak the whole thing in wd40 or pbblast and see if the left handed drill works. If you do drill it out just increase the bit size slowly, you often don't need to use a massive drill to get to the point that whats left of the bolt come out.

My old flexi looked similar and happily passed MOT's however eventually other parts of the exhaust started to blow and that was that. I never noticed a note change, soemtimes with the windows down at low speed you hear an almost "tinkling" which i put down to the braiding

I've always pondered what is a mod vs a replacement? IE I have a true dual invidia exhaust exhaust with berk HFCs, I got it when my OEm exhaust was blowing and my cats had corroded, yes it's an upgrade but it's also considerably cheaper than a stock replacement, is that a mod? Same with discs the Nissan OEM ones are silly money, my replacements happen to be slotted and grooved but again cheaper than OEM and better quality. If I ever do my body kit I'll be declaring that but the aforementioned don't seem like mods? Should I list my uprated droplinks too?

I'm dubious I have a spare with my car which has never worked, a new battery, and stepping through the registration meant that the car opens fine but it wont start. Be curious to see 100% if this works as then my key is knackered and should be an easy swap as it's already cut!

Do they corrode quickly or are these quite old?

My depoisit was sent april 29th, you should have had a PM? I seem have dropped off the list somehow

I've never measured, it usually sits in the middle of the dash.

HI, (again) Sorting out my oil leak so I took my sandwich plate off to give it a clean up and reseat it nicely, I looked at the valve, is it me or is this not how it should be? The valve doesn't actually block any of the outlet/inlet ports to the intercooler, I thought the whole point was that at cold the intercooler bas basically disabled by blocking a port and stopping a loop from forming, once hot enough the valve flicks back to allow circulation. As you can see (hopefully) my valve is a good 5-10mm away from the point it's meant to be blocking. Is this normal? Feels like the plate and valve are mismatched!

Indeed took a bit of bashing and access isn't the best but it wasn't a particularly involved job. I'm always wary of removing bits of the suspension, altho that's my next task! New hub is nice and smooth, already greased as well, thanks very much ZmanAlex!

Used a flat head screwdriver and a hammer!

Possibly, all the vids I watched removed the axe to access for four bolts on the back

So the diff end is also splined? How deep are the splines? I guess I just need to tap it and loosen it

Hi guys, can't seem to find the answer to this! I've found some videos but they skip over this all important section. -I've removed the wheel -Taken the hub nut off -removed the pads and caliper -unbolted the 6 bolts holding the stub axel to the diff SO what's next? I need to get the axel out of the hub to get round to the four bolts. The manual implies that you need to pull the stub axel further out of the hub which will cause the diff end (with the 6 bolts) however I've tried (with the handbrake on) rebolting the hub nut with a plate underneath, turning the hub nut should then pull the axel out, however it seems to just get stuck and I suspect the axel can't be pulled out any further. Do I need to loosen the diff connection somehow? ANy advice would be appreciated!

Can do, what does that screw do? It's got a spring behind it I seem to recall. Is there likly to be a seal/gasket between the plate and the engine that needs changing too? Or just the seal between the nut and plate? Redid the oil last week so I can pretend this is an intended flush!

Descriptive! I've had a slow oil leak for awhile and having changed the filter, oil and sump plug last weekend I was hoping it was the sump plug seal. However it seems not to be as the leak is no worse (visible vs invisible) My car has an extra intercooler installed by a previous owner, This means there's a plate on the oil filter that connects the two lines out to the intercooler. (Is this called a sandwich plate?) Anywho on this plate as well as the oiler filter and in/out oil feeds there's another mysterious screw and I believe it's this that's leaking (on the photos it's one of the higher components but still has oil dripping from it) What does this little screw do? I did undo it when I changed the oil but it's fully tightened back up. I'd guess the seal has gone and needs replacing now though? (silver nut in the photos) WHile I'm here what holds the plate on, is it just the original oil filter fitting? I can move it left and right slightly before it hits the sump pan.

It will never over report the fuel level, you will always have at least what it tells you. The only way you can run out is if it says you have 50miles and you assume it's broken and have 100. If you slavishly follow the meter and believe it's correct then you'll be fine. I know the spot on mine where it dips so I just drive through it and then it balances back out. Obviously if yours is totally borked that's no good but if it's just a question of the tank showing 3/4 when it should show full it's really not a problem.

Sadly the fix doesn't last long. I did this when I got it, was fine for a few months but there's definete levels where it doesn't return the right value

Parking in the underground carpark, another fellow red owner

I did it from the stereo simply as I have a reverse feed in there already and it keeps all the cables in the same place. You don't have to have a reverse feed (all it does it ensure the mirror can't dim when your reversing) you can live without it or press the power button. Given I have a rear camera I already routed a cable to the stereo so it was nice and easy. I avoided the dome light for that reason and also that I'd already blown one up so figured I'd steer clear!