ilogikal1

Cheaper alternatives from Flexipads that are the same thing. Handy to have, but definitely cheaper versions around. Edit; Flexipads, not Flex!

What that guy said! ^^^ A303 is certainly one of the best available for protecting soft tops. Gyeon FabricCoat is equally as good though. In terms of washing - this or marginally better still this; spray onto a wet roof, agitate (a medium stiffness brush works better than calling it names. Sometimes), rinse thoroughly and leave to dry. Then protect either with this or that. The only thing to be weary of when cleaning is taking care with the pressure washer on older hoods that might leak, or around the window seals because Nissan, otherwise you're pretty much good to go really.

It's okay, the only similarity that render has to the silhouette in the Nissan video is the roofline. Everything below that is pure fabrication.

Depend on where you are, the body shop and the current state of the paint. Most of the money goes into the labour for prep and prices vary wildly based on location alone. Expect anywhere between £2-8k for a full car.

I especially like the sentence that started, "just to give you some more interesting facts, Neesahn is probably...".

There is evidence to the contrary.

Please don't....

You see, I'm much more pessimistic about it (I don't know if you could tell from these threads? ) and at this point I'm still thinking it's more if the times comes than when. I'll concede it's considerably more likely now that Nissan have actually suggested it themselves, but there's still no indication that it's coming this way at all. I mean if we're picking up on the subtle hints in Nissan's teaser video (and i generally hate to to do this because there's a high chance of reading too much into nothing!) but did anyone else notice that all the models featured are from the American market? Most exclusively so.

On a race car, an actual race car not a track toy, where they're usually sponsored; fine. On a Trans Am in 1977; passable. On pretty much anything else; cheap, tacky and usually horribly discoloured after the first 8 seconds.

15ml should do it in that case.

The beers will definitely help with lining it up again.

Depending on how you intend to use it, anywhere between the two would be fine. ONR really does need to be wiped off, so pre-wash use would depend on how you intend to remove it; If you're just using it to spray on/wipe off then more towards QD ratio (the more dirt, the stronger it should be obviously, but if it's just light dust you could reduce it slightly). If you're spraying on a panel to add extra lubrication when washing with ONR (or normal shampoo) then lube ratio will do the job. If you're planning to spray on/rinse off, I wouldn't bother at all because you won't get much out of the product at all to be honest. As a pre-wash it tends to work best if you spray the panel more-or-less immediately before washing to add more lubrication, it's not like a snow foam where it needs time to dwell to break down the dirt though - the last thing you want with ONR is for it to dry out on the panel.

1oz in 2 gallons of water. Or in English; 256:1. 29.625ml in 7.58 litres of water. Or 3.9ml per litre. For a "normal" wash. Or ~16ml per litre for a clay lube. Or ~47ml per litre for a QD. Tips; use plenty of cloths; flip/change regularly. Keep them wet and saturated. Do one panel at a time and dry it immediately. Be aware of what you're doing and you should be fine.

I can see why that designer works at LADA...

Out of interest, what is this based on? Not questioning your thoughts here, just interested in your sources.

Just looks like it needs an extra buff to pick up the oily residue. This can be caused by a few things, most likely over application, not working the product to sufficiently break it down or oversaturated cloths when buffing off (or any combination of the three). Try a clean cloth, spritzed with a bit of QD (just one squirt misted over is ore than enough) or dampened with clean water (wet it, wring it out as much as you can by hand, you want it damp not wet!) and then buff a small section and it should clear right up. Turn the cloth frequently until you run out of clean sides then switch to another cloth - you’re probably looking at 3-4 cloths to buff the whole car at this point.

Just in time for Nissan to reduce their market presence in Europe and reduce their global portfolio down to 55 models (as actually announced rather than just hinted at, by the way). May have to wait a lot longer to see one here!

I agree, I think the mirrors look better red. I'd be keeping the roof red as well if it were me, I'm not a fan of the black roof on the one pictured above.

I genuinely love that their "most trustworthy reports" links to themselves.

Good grief that is ugly! Still, on the bright side, absolute concrete evidence that the next Z will be launched shortly right there. And with a twin-turbo Spitfire engine in it too. Or something.

Agreed.

To be fair, that could apply to the SiO2 market in general though. Even an entry level coating will set you back £35 for 30ml giving 10-12 month's protection. That's ~517ml (or 2.19 pots) of Poorboys Natty's Blue wax (as a random, cheap LSP alternative for example's sake) which would last you well over a year (probably 2+) even if you reapplied every every single week. The price of coatings only goes up from there too. I appreciate it's not a direct comparison, but you see my point? I do get what you're saying, but essentially you're paying for convenience and ease of application as much as the durability, and there aren't many products that add any real protection that are easier than spray on rinse off coatings (except Bathe+, which ironically would have been a much better product for the video - also ironically the video has demonstrated a much less efficient means of application). If you put a price on the time saved applying against the cheaper product (wax, to stick with the example) you're offsetting a lot of that cost. It depends on how much you value your own time of course, but there is always a mark up on convenience. Whether it's worth it or not is a whole other can of worms!

Or, to put it into one word; incorrectly. So you agree that all the video shows is when Wet Coat is applied incorrectly it performs less favourably than a product that is applied correctly? Rhetorical question.

So just ignoring Gyeon’s own responses to that question then? Convenient. Stalemate indeed.......

On a more serious note, that sounds very much like over application - it's very easy over apply these spray on, rinse off products and/or not rinse throughly enough. Gyoen, for example, suggest ~80ml of product per (large) car, personally I think even that's a bit too much. I can get round a Z with 40-50ml with a bit of care and that'll give me 2-3 months of protection on it's own. HydrO2 and Wet Coat Essence are more tempremental though as you need to get the ratios right to get the longevity, and HydroCoat I always found to be better as a wipe on product rather than a spray on, rine off, so it very much does dpend on the product. I get what you're saying about it being a gimmick though - I'm not sure gimmick is the right word for me but for lack of a better one I'll go with that. It's not a replacement for proper protection, it's just a quick and easy top-up product, similar to hydrophobic QD's (and I'm quite vocal about my thoughts on QD's, so I totally get where you're coming from) except quicker and easier to apply to protect the underlying wax/sealant/coating a little more. I'd much rather use Wet Coat than a QD though, personally.