ilogikal1

http://www.polishedswiss.com/#/engine-bay/4529645625 Have a nosey at this, it's a fairly detailed step by step. If it's not really that bad, I tend to just use a diluted APC rather degreaser though.

Better still, tell him you'll take it for a test drive until the CEL light goes out; free Zed! Then hand it back when it's broken.

I'll be interested too.

I can't say I've ever heard of this before but having had a nosey at the website I'm quite tempted.

That.

So lower profile and stretched? Or in other words, the wrong size.

Ultimatesoldier may not still be the owner, he says he lives in Yorkshire in that second link that BBK provided, but the car's now for sale in Devon??

You're not this guy are you? If so, this is your suspect;

That. Tardis is my preferred choice. Alternatively heat the glue (with a hair-drier or such) which will make it slightly easier to pick off That too.

No experience of this issue myself so I can't help you there. However, for parts,

The 3.8litre was the 380RS, wasn't it? I can't be a***d to look it up myself.

...But it's too late to keep your head down and pretend it never happened though.

WonderWheels is also very acidic. So long as it's not left to dwell for too long it shouldn't do any damage but it's not something I would use.

Yes, for polishing you should ideally be using a cutting pad. The choice of pad is as important as the choice of polish, if you've not been using a cutting pad, that would explain why there's some swirls/marring left after polishing. One of these is ideal.

Mine doesn't have a name, it's a car...

I've not used Swirl-X so I can't comment on it's effectiveness. A glaze will fill the swirls temporarily, but they will eventually come back.

Any wheel sealant will be fine to protect them, it won't affect the matte finish. Swissvax (along with a few others) do offer Matte specific products though but there's no real need for them. Providing they're well protected you'll generally just need water to clean them, but any normal car shampoo will also be fine to use.

Nissan paint is quite soft so it' not difficult to inflict swirls or marring. Super Resin Polish isn't very/at all abrasive (depending on which version it is that you're using) so won't do much/anything to correct the paint. I use Menz 203S and 85RE, but I'm sure others will have their own preferences. You're best off using a DA (or rotary if you're confident enough with it) too, but you can use 203S by hand with a light cutting pad.

IPA and/or Tardis will remove the glue residue once you've got the wrap off.

I believe you can inform them that you'll be fitting the wheels on a specified future date, if the temptation is too much for you. You will of course have to change them then, or call your insurers again to tell them you haven't.

Many other alternatives, some of which have been mentioned, but the Megs kit is perfectly adequate and good if you've not used clay before.

As mentioned above, metal polish should sort it. And bin the AutoGlym too.

http://www.hpicheck.com/ That is all.

And the re-listing costs. And, if you're unlucky, storage costs of for the time between entering an agreement to buy the car from them and the car being re-listed. This, of course, is dependent on any agreement that you signed. In which case your best chance of getting anything back is;