ilogikal1

As above, it depends on how deep the scratches are but anything cerium oxide based is what you need - such as http://www.polishedbliss.co.uk/acatalog/3m-glass-polishing-compound-cat16.html or http://www.cleanyourcar.co.uk/engine-and-exterior/glass-cleaners-sealants/carpro-ceri-glass-kit/prod_988.html for example. It's not an easy job, so it'll take a while by machine (rotary being better for this than DA) or take forever by hand if they're not light scratches. If they're too deep, you'll need to replace the glass.

19" apparently; http://my350z.com/forum/9992826-post18.html From here; http://my350z.com/forum/wheels-and-tires/567372-avant-garde-m550-5-spoke-deep-concave.html

Scroll down.

It's worth noting that most washing up liquids contain salt. Chances are this will cause light marring, so it depends if you're intending to polish after stripping the wax... but then the polish will remove an LSP anyway, so it seems redundant. There are better/safer things to use than washing up liquid in my opinion.

I've just downloaded it and run it though 4 different scans, nothing detected on any of them.

^^ That. Plus PIAA also make aero blades as well these days if that's what you're after.

OP said he was using Poorboys wax. Poorboys Natty's Paste Wax - http://www.poorboysworld.co.uk/cgi-bin/pbw.cgi?Command=ShowEPage&db_epid=7

Natty's does tend to dust when it's over-applied. Also, as has already been mentioned, it's best to leave it a few hours (I've found with Natty's, about 6+ hours is good) between coats.

SF4500 (or PO85RD if you prefer) will be fine by hand on Nissan paint, so long as you make sure you work it fully. Good luck with getting it finished in time.

It would be a last resort prior to a re-spray for me. Always start with the least cut to do the job so I'd try polishing any scratches first. I certainly wouldn't be wet sanding without paint depth readings first either.

If the residue comes off easily (you may need to use some of the lube to shift it if it's dried on) then I wouldn't worry about it, it's probably just the lube. Could always open the bottle and have a look if it's bothering you that much.

Yep, when it's broken!

It's best not to use an acidic cleaner - any decent non-acidic wheel cleaner will be up to the job, I've recently been using Chemical Guys (when it's needed). I also like to use Tardis and Wolf's Decon Gel to completely clean them before sealing.

Yes, yes and which kit are you using? Keep repeating the process until the clay isn't picking up any fresh contaminants - i.e. the bar is still clean after it's passed over the area you're working on. It should then feel totally smooth when you run your fingertips over it. Always use plenty of lube (oo-er) otherwise you run a greater risk of marring the paint and that'll need to be polished out then. It's always better to use too much lube than too little.

I just use 2 cheap 12.5 litre buckets from B&Q (I think) and don't agree with grit guards so don't use them at all.

Agreed, it's wonderful stuff this but I'm too cheap for this to be general use. It does make a great wax-friendly TFR though. Detergent based so best keep it away from rubber and it will probably strip wax. (fairy liquid is a detergent) I've no idea about this stuff specifically, but being detergent based isn't necessarily an issue - all others mentioned already are detergent based too.

I used to be a regular at the Ketch meets but that was with the HJC (which is no more sadly) side of it rather than Nippon Squad so I've so no idea if they still meet up down there. I wouldn't have thought they'd be using Ketch at the moment if they do still meet though, with the roadworks on the A164.

I usually just go for what's cheapest at the supermarket - I'm currently working through my stockpile of Tesco's own which at 69p per litre cost me less for 5 litres than just the shipping cost of the Megs stuff.

Now.

Although if you do get a build up and find you're losing foaming performance (it's usually because the gauze needs cleaning) just run some APC through it (whilst doing the arches as stated before). Easier than taking it apart to clean.

Unless using it in the sun, then rinse off before it dries.

I got the same trim dressing rather than the tyre gel too. I believe there are minor differences in some of the boxes from time to time.

The other alternative is a waterless wash - ONR is a popular choice.

I shifted most of them yesterday during the polishing stage. I've still got more polishing to do because my back decided it had, had enough yesterday so I'll just attack them with the DA again. Sealant is usually a last stage product - usually in place of wax, but some (like C2) can be used either on top or under. When it's used in place of wax, it'll give a slightly different finish (in terms of glossiness/beading/etc - which is why some people use wax as well) but will provide superior durability. When a wax is used on top on a sealant it's usually to get the finish of the wax but with the more durable product still protecting the paint when the wax fails (the wax will usually fail sooner in this case as it's tried to bond to the sealant rather than the paintwork). It's usually a case that the wax is a sacrificial layer in this case. Some sealants can also be used on top of wax, which is the same theory as the wax-on-top scenario, except the sealant loses some/much of it's durability as it's trying to bond to the wax rather than the paint, and becomes the sacrificial layer. Depending on how hard you worked the Hubikote when polishing and condition/age of the existing wax, you may have stripped some/all of the existing wax from your paint, so the C2 may have had a better bond to the bare paint or to the existing wax but either way it should take more than a bit of buffing to strip it off C2 if it's bonded well.

As promised, I tried mine this weekend both on top of wax and on bare paintwork although it may not count for much because I didn't use a great deal of it (I intend to stick with wax for summer and use C2 for my winter protection this year), my conclusion is - as Downhuman suggests it doesn't seem to play well with wax. It went on the bare paint perfectly well with no streaking at all, however there was was noticeable streaking when applied over the wax. It did occur to me that it may be an over-application issue, so I tested this too on wing mirrors by spraying onto a microfibre and wiping over the bare paint first (with no streaking) then wiping over another wing mirror with a layer of wax on without spraying any more on the microfibre and it still left streaking. The good news is that on both streaky applications were easily resolved with a quick buff using a damp microfibre. I also used the Britemax CleanMax which I found to be very good; lovely and slick, exactly what you need from a shampoo and good cleaning ability too. I may replace my usual Slick & Suds with this when I've run out as it's the first shampoo I've used that's as good. The Hubikote Restore polish is okay. It has slightly more cut that 85RE so it's definitely a finishing polish. It leaves a good enough finish but I don't think it'll be replacing my Menz polish, it's a lot more runny and can be a bit difficult to buff - especially when over-applied, which is easy to do given how runny it is. I tried it both by hand and by machine, I was left underwhelmed by hand. It was better by machine but requires more working than 85RE as isn't as easy to buff. I didn't experience any dusting at all though (even when over-applied), which did impress me. I also had another bash at last month's clay & lube now that it's a bit warmer too. The cay itself was okay (despite getting VERY sticky when it got too warm!), the lube however left me with very mixed feelings still - use too much and it seems to deteriorate the clay (more-so with the Dodo Juice clay I also tried with it) and the usual issues of not using enough, I found it very difficult to get the right balance.