ilogikal1

An issue that is so prevalent that Pistonheads have this warning all over the classified section; Together with a link to this.

I concur with this (given the minor edit). I've not used the Mer stuff, but I have used a few others and absolutely everything I've used was notably and considerably better than RainX. However, for the sake of £3 you might as well at least try it for yourself. And for the sake of impartiality all those others that I've tried have cost more (some considerably more) than £3.

You know that doesn't count as washing your car don't you?! Says who?!

They keep stealing his picnic basket...

As you were then.

No harm in using something else on top, that would be a waste of product really as it wouldn't bond sufficiently to anything it'd essentially get washed off almost immediately.

This is what I have atmhttp://www.halfords....tegoryId_265857 And if you have an iPhone, maybe the same with Android, you can use apps for sat nav etc, works great I will probably be selling this soon too. http://www.ebay.co.u...t-/141096447584 I hope you didn't give Halfords nearly twice as much as it's actually worth!?

But despite that, it's still a good idea.

£14.50 from G|Techniq, clicky.

Still having the problem? Have you tried swapping the coil packs over? If the problem swaps sides too it's the coil, otherwise it's the connection. Failing that, get your multimeter out. IIRC, resistance should be between 0.63-0.77 Ohms across the terminals.

Could be worse, both would probably try and kill you so you'd react the same. You don't have to worry about letting the mammoth win though...

Also might be worth noting that snow foam will clean better on a dry car - there's really no need to rinse/soak first as this encourages the foam to run off quicker.

Yes. And, if they know what it is, probably as it's a performance mod - however this will differ from one insurer to the next.

Yes, you're better off with the Megs kit frankly, IMHO.

As mentioned above, all waxes are different, some you can layer almost immediately whilst other require longer between coats. I can't really add much to Ekona's post really, other than the question regarding gloss which will come down more to prep. than to the wax on top - although difference waxes will give slightly different finishes. With regards to "what's best", that depends entirely on both you're trying to achieve and personal preference really. Give this a read through.

They had to stop that and go back to a code system, which is here; http://www.350z-uk.c...-forum-members/ But as ph 7 said, they're usually running some sort of offer and these occasionally work out to be the cheapest option (if they can't be used together).

No problem mate, let us know how you get on - maybe go and add the solution to all those other threads when it's sorted too.

Yes, it's on top of the gearbox. Scoobynet might be able to give you some better advice than me and help to narrow it down, maybe even save you a few sensors.

The only other thing that's not been mentioned so far is the NPS, this tends to leave misfire codes. The ECU will learn to compensate for a MAF if it's dead, and IIRC correctly it doesn't usually get flagged by the ECU (certainly not on the classics at least). It can cause a misfire if the ECU's over/under compensating for the measured air flow.

Just seen your edit, intermittent knock sensor is usually a faulty connection on the sensor itself.

Did you test the MAF when you cleaned it? Easiest way to do this is simply unplug it with the engine running, if the engine stalls the MAF's fine, if the engine still runs then it's dead. My next port of call would be to test the coil pack, as suggested by Ekona.

What MY is it, to start with?

Just out of interest, how much fuel did you have in the tank? IIRC, the 80 litre difference between full and empty adds just under 60kgs on it's own.