Mack

Bump FTW!

Hello. I fitted 25mm spacers to the rear however I'm running 265 tyres on my Ray I've managed to take the paint off the wheel arch. it hasn't rusted yet but its down to the metal. I also had someone back into me in a car park creasing the front wing. Its caused a small piece of paint to flake off and it now has surface rust. Im not looking to do an immaculate repair, especially on the wheel arches just something that will prevent the parts from rusting and becoming a problem. Can anyone recommend what paints etc to use? Thanks Mack

I had the same fault, my thread is here and may be of use: http://www.350z-uk.com/topic/70130-odb2-code-0340-cam-shaft-position-sensor-phase/ To summarise when it happened to me the car would drive normally until the engine was warm and then the power would briefly cut and return with the check engine light. The car was difficult to start when warm. The US cars had a recall for the sensors but the UK cars didn't. I don't think cleaning it will make any difference. I brought mine from Zmanalex, I only replaced the Bank 1 sensor and 3 years later I've had no recurrence.

First off good to hear you are not injured, I know a guy who hit a horse and was lucky to be alive! Secondly Zmanalex is right (as usual, dude know his cars.) Get the bumper off and have a look, also check the washer bottles as they may be damaged because if there is liquid leaking it might not be the radiator. Getting someone who knows these cars and has a good rep e.g. Horsham etc is a good option. After that maybe consider aftermarket items, Nismo style bumper perhaps? Don't blame me if you end up doing a load of other mods as well.

Im interested in the Teins, I've PM'd Paul and texted Bennett.

If in good condition and ready to go I will pay the asking price.

Im interested. Are they all in good condition with the nuts? are they ready to post?

Nice work!

+1 The first offer is always low. Years ago I had an XR2i written off after a best man late for the wedding crashed into the back of my car while I was waiting to turn right. I had been working on it with the intention of going stock hatch racing. First offer was £500, after showing evidence of all the work I had done on it I got £1000 plus the car back. It could well be worth it!

I guess the DVLA inform the police or you have yourself. Its a nice bundle of documents to sell a stolen car cloned with your reg etc.

Another option you have is to remove the useless boot weight, it helps.

Thats correct however I found the hub to be stuck to the hub carrier, took a while to get it loose. Be careful with the ABS sensor as well.

I had the brake judder issue, as Zmanalex says check the discs inside and out. Just by looking at the insides I could see mine where shot. New discs and pads fixed it.

For comparison my car with 100% stock exhaust is 84db on a static test at 3/4 max rpm. Here is some info on how they do the test at Snetteron: http://www.snetterton.co.uk/media/975291/snnoisedocument_for_website_2010_rm.pdf Im guessing the same procedure used at other tracks.

I recently had a front wheel bearing go, heres my symptoms and fix which maybe of some help. Im at best an amateur home mechanic so I don't give any guarantees but the info may be useful. Symptoms: Car made a humming noise that increased with speed, it sounded like it came from the front left which turned out to be correct. Turning right increased the noise level. I jacked up the left front and supported it with a jack stand. I tried the good old test of holding the top and bottom of the tyre and seeing if there was any play, none was present. I got a mechanic friend to try him self, he used a massive breaker bar underneath the tyre to apply more force but still no play. I removed the brake calliper and disc to get directly at the hub, again no play. However when i rotated the hub I could feel it felt rough. It felt like it was grinding slightly. It was smooth through some of the rotation and rough at other points. I wasn't able to feel this it with the wheel on. Again got a mechanic friend to take a look and he agreed, he's has seen bearings fail with zero play. Fix: ordered a genuine OEM front hub from Torqen cost around £180. The fitting isn't too bad as the hub and bearing is a single sealed unit, no messing around with pullers etc. The only hard point was getting the hub out of the hub carrier as it was stuck fast. If your getting a garage to do it it shouldn't be a huge labour bill. Rotating the new bearing before fitting it it felt smooth and consistent. Mine failed near the end of a track day and I have a video with the noise somewhere. If you want I can probably dig up the video and put on you tube. Hope this is of some help. Mack

Im considering another option, remove the rear strut brace entirely and have a bar fabricated to go between the suspension turrets. I have to do some research as to how well this will work with the seat belts.

Just an idea, would fitting a tracker make any difference?

I did tim, unfortunately it was £250 more than the quote I took.

After a couple of years on the Zed my insurance halved. My post code is quite insurance friendly mind.

that's crazy money for insurance, about half price of the older Zeds. I didn't have a performance car before the Zed, after one year driving the Zed I found the specialist insurers started to offer good deals.

Bit of a thread revival but incase anyone is interested I just renewed my policy for another year. I decided to stay with Sky Insurance / Chaucer, I got a cheaper quote else where however I made my decision based on the fact they resolved the claim professionally without any funny business. In the end the cost was around £100 more than last year.

Octet, I brought a master kit a while back, just need to get around to fitting it. Can you supply additional poly grease as well? Mack

im interested. Do the stalks from the leather seats fit the cloth ones?

Thanks Kaveney, Its looks well made and solidly built. The only concern I have is the mounting points. If I'm not mistaken (I may be!) the rear legs mount on a sheet steel box section. I can see in my car where it bolts in, not quite sure why these bolt holes are present or what they where designed for.

Ive seen GcFabrications is using a new design, does anyone have the new design fitted? Any idea of the weight?