Mack

Thanks for the info, much appreciated.

I'm looking to replace my rusted cats, I'm going to stick with OEM. I've got a 04 UK car, will the cats from later years or JDM fit my car? Thanks

I'm very interested in the cats, will they fit a 04 UK 350z? Thanks EDIT: Payment now sent, check your PM's!

Stuff like that makes my bloody boil, Any CCTV covering your office car park? It wont repair your paintwork but you might catch the little @*!#.

I see what you mean, Ive given it a full 2 arm effort with a 24" pry bar and its not moved a mm.

So its fully loaded then?

I'm trying to remove the compression rod but it's stuck fast. I've removed the brace, all the required bolts and separated the ball joint but can't get the bush to separate from the car. I've tried soaking it in wd40 and shocking it with a mallet. Any suggestions appreciated.

This has happened to mine and looking around the forum I've seen it mentioned a few times. It might be worth adding to the buying guide. On a car with about 60,000 miles the rear brakes pads may have started to break up. It looks fine when inspecting the pads through the calliper but when you remove the pads you see the problem. The inner pad also wears more than the outer pad and may be down to the metal. The inside face of the rear brake disc is also not visible, it can be rotting when the outside face looks fine.

Congrats on the new car and welcome. The z is my first rear wheel drive car as well. it's a good idea to keep the traction control on at first as the rear can twitch especially in the wet.

Is this the one?

Is that the metal bracket that holds the steel brake line on the OEM install?

After much messing around im part way through fitting the kit. Im not sure the best way to route the braided hose to the front brakes. Any pictures of a complete install greatly appreciated!

Thanks Alex! Im going to change the fluid as well, do I just pump the reservoir untill it almost dry then add the new fluid?

Just about to start on the swap, Ive read the workshop manual for procedure and it states the battery negative should be disconnected after the fluid has been drained. Is it necessary?

Thanks, Ive taken your advice and gone for the Hex option.

BulletMagnet: Will do mate. On a side note im looking to buy some flare nut spanners for this job, Im going to buy a set as im sure ill use them again on something else. Ive found these on ebay: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/BERGEN-7-Piec ... 415ca7b91f They are 12 point in stead of hex, will i be taking a risk in rounding off the nuts or am i better off spening more and buying a hex kit?

BulletMagnet: Thanks!, do you have any of the other end? its the first time ive changed brake lines. coldel: Will do , Im planning to give the calipers a good clean up while I have them off the car

Anyone got some photos of the kit fitted? Im looking to fit mine shortly.

Hello greido, Im intrested. If there any damage to the inside of the rim or is it purely cosmetic kurbing?

Nope! Slicks are not allowed on the Ring for TF or on any european road! Dont worry, I know that! Im thinking of track days! Im going to call it a night, thanks again

Thanks Keyser and GT4 Zed! Have guys your run your cars on slicks?

Im looking for some good brakes for trackdays, possibly on slicks. Ive narrowed it down to Perfomance Friction rotors and stock calipers or going for a K sport setup. Can anyone share there expierences of using either of these kits on the track? Thanks

just wanted to say thanks to Mark (i forget his name on forums) the guy with the black nismo 350z for lending me the tools and helping me change the rear pads, top bloke!

Thanks for the heads up on the isolator, Ive ordered one. Ill take a look at the cigarette lighter and see where I could tap a couple of wires in

The beast! I will get some better quality photos up soon!.