brillomaster

no fricking way man! that'll certainly liven up the estate! im guessing it will mainly be a euro jaunt car given its a left hooker?

playing devils advocate, I think you need to know the whole story really... 10k miles in 3 years could be 500 in y1, 500in y2 and 9000 in y3. and I don't think many buyers of Nissan 350zs would service a car that's only done 500miles a year. if it had done 3-4k each year then yes, it should be serviced. however if it was in a garage for two years or had very minimal use, I wouldn't expect to see a service - its not a £2m Ferrari! but then again, the conditional based service in a BMW may mean that the oil doesn't get changed for many years, and would still class as a full service history. I plan to go against that and change the oil every year or every 10k miles, whichever comes first. which will likely be long before the car requests an oil change!

I wouldn't be that worried about it - however for piece of mind i'd give it a full service including plugs and belts as soon as I bought it. And also check the condition of the tyres for age cracks. has the car been garaged? I'd be more concerned with the type of driving its done (take best estimate from what the seller says) and what fuel its been run on (again, ask the seller, judge his response). one would hope it was just a weekend summer car, and when it has been driven its been given a decent run to let everything get up to temp.

This is how I do mine!

ah balls... in my defence its not just an auto, rather its an early flappy paddle system - most of the time I drive it in manual mode. And really, i'm only getting practice in for the future - my next car will almost certainly be a flappy paddle affair, since all the new cars I like right now only come with flappy paddles (with the exception of the Jag F-Type).

Am I now in team M&S?!? my BMW isn't full on barge spec, although it is an automatic!

yeah, but its a hatchback with a 4 cyl turbo engine. don't care how fast it goes, at the end of the day, its a hatchback with two too few cylinders

I would suggest going the other way... the rears need to be rotating around 2% slower than the fronts, if you want to make the tcs less sensitive then make the rears rotate a lot slower than the fronts, ie put even larger rear tyres on relative to the front! but personally I don't think running different tyres is the issue, I ran directional Hankook V12s on the front and asymettric Hankook S1 Evo2s on the rear for a year with no problems. i'd perhaps be looking at wheel speed sensors and the like, does it happen even when you aren't going particularly quickly?

welcome to the forum! Since you've got a limited edition GT4 car, i'd be inclined to keep it as original as possible so it holds its value. Therefore if you do want to change the colour of the wheels, do it byy buying some aftermarket ones, and then keep the originals to go back on the car if you sell it. The exception to keeping it original is the exhaust, which should always be changed in all cases!

are mtec quality discs? just saying, they're awfully cheap compared to other drilled and grooved alternatives... Although I doubt you'd find the weaknesses under normal road driving, I've only seen cheap drilled discs crack under the high temps generated by track cars.

i worked for VAG and spent alot of time at the Milton Keynes HQ a few years back, maybe thats why i have no love for them seeing everything that went wrong with them i didnt compare a 4g to a r8? your 1 series sounds like a skyline standard? An Evo has a 4G63, you said you this is "yes" as compared to the Lambo V10 thats "meh", thats a comparison in my book. And my 135 has a BMW sports exhaust on it and hi flow cats which I think are BM as well. Not standard on all 1 series but not aftermarket either. @WINKJ - sorry mate, I thought this was a discussion board, where you have discussions? Im just asking Steve to tell me how a 2.0 4 cylinder sounds better than a 5.2 litre V10, or is that against the rules suddenly? Prior to that I was discussing my own experience of driving the cars mentioned in this thread, or should I reign that in as well? sorry mate i didnt think it was that hard to figure out,most other people understand it, i have try to make it a bit most easier Golf gti vs Evo i would take evo on sounds Bmw 330i vs is300 i would take is300 on sound Audi s4 vs mustang 5.0 i would take the mustang on sound Audi r8 vs Lexus LFA i would take the LFA on sound just out of curiousity did anyone get what i meant before come to think of it, im not sure two of your comparisons are fair... comparing an Audi S4 to a mustang, in fairness they are completely different cars! should compare an S4 to a buick or a Cadillac, and compare a mustang to, errrm... a wiesmann?

I can see your point, most german exhaust notes are not as good as their Japanese equivalent... what Stevo is trying to say is that a german 4cyl turbo sounds worse than a jap 4cyl turbo, and that a german V8 sounds worse than an American V8, and a German V10 sounds worse than a Japanese V10. which I would probably agree with, to be honest! although I suspect most german cars and engines are designed to be very smooth, and have very conservative exhausts - whereas jap cars and certainly American cars can get away with being a bit wilder.

Not forgetting that grooved help clean the pads and offer better bite and can offer more friction than solid discs, if we are talking physics of course The reason most road car discs are solid is for quieter operation, absolutely nothing to do with stopping power or distance I thought the reason was the same as most things, solid discs are cheaper to make and provide acceptable stopping power. I'm now not that keen on drilled discs and have seen discs crack around the holes when they get hot. ideally any holes need to have been cast in the disc in the first place, rather than drilled out afterwards.

Cougarstore, Queens road, Leicester. Wouldn't have taken my zed anywhere else. for more details. /thread.

welcome to the forum. Pics of the 'fro if its real please!

the wheel horsepower is as good as its going to get really, and the correction for flywheel horsepower will vary between testing stations. as said, treat it as a baseline, and if you do get any work done then take it back to the same dyno place ideally under the same conditions.

M3 or C63 for me. Heavens above not the mustang.

I think its just below the latch on the door sill, little rubber switch thingy.

both drivers and passengers sides should drop when the door is opened. if its dropping but not coming back up, try testing the door closure sensor, might be a faulty switch sensor rather than a dodgy motor.

I never did anything with it... maybe I was lucky and it was jammed slightly lower than yours, I just opened and closed the door as normal! Once in a blue moon the window would drop when I opened the door, but most times it didn't. And occasionally it had a mind of its own and auto opened all the way down, then wouldn't come back up without a bang on the switch and a gentle tug on the glass.

i had three years of opening and closing my drivers door without the window dropping, never had any issues. replacing the battery was a doddle, disconnect old one, swap in new one, reconnect. job done, nothing else needed. I did however have a problem getting the battery clamp back on again - in the end asked CS to do it for me when it was serviced.

how does it feel around corners? cost quite frankly toe out at the rear is dangerous for a powerful rwd drive car, when my tracking was out at the rear it felt like a wheel was about to fall of the way it drove round corners.

no, 100% throttle press is 100% throttle opening, in all gears. the zed doesn't limit power in any gear, it just slows down the throttle opening to make it easier to drive at slow speeds without lurching around everywhere with an on/off switch for a throttle pedal. but you're roughly right about SP7 - if you want to see it working, put the car in neutral and hold the revs steady at 3000rpm say, then cycle through the settings on the throttle controller and note how the revs rise and fall on their own without you changing the position of your foot.

To get 100% throttle opening through 1st 2nd and 3rd gears. I installed mine last night and it works great with my cobra de-cat pipes, feels so much more responsive (on sp7 anyway) you can get 100% throttle opening in all gears without the D1 throttle controller, the controller just means the throttle responsiveness changes. All it does is intercept the signal from the throttle pedal to the butterfly. normally in the first three gears the throttle response is numbed down, but in all cases 100% throttle pedal pressed = 100% throttle opening.

mine had just ticked over 70k when I sold the car, original clutch still felt absolutely fine, no problems.