brillomaster

Not a fan myself, sorry! furthest i'd go would be a gloss black roof, but not the pillars and boot. Also keep the spoiler on, zeds with no spoilers on makes a fairly large rear look even larger in my opinion, needs a spoiler to break up the lines.

wow seems i'm definitely in the minority lol had my zed 2 years and 3 months now, so far only extras I've bought were a stubby for £8 and an exhaust for £425, but that was because the old one started blowing, so it needed doing. Other that that, its been a P1 and P2 service ~£300, 4 new midrange tyres ~£450(Hankooks and Falkens) and then a few months ago the original 11 year old front discs needed replacing, along with new redstuff pads ~£300 fitted. next up will be some new rears (£280 fitted) but then after that theres very little else I want to do, other than drive it!

without cats.. not a lot! maybe 10-15 hp? with cats, maybe 10hp more. an uprev isn't really a power mod, more a driveability mod.

plenum spacer, better flowing panel filter and high flow cats. can do y pipe also but not essential, the cats and spacer will make the biggest impact.

hmmm uprev you say... might be interested, the weird throttle response in 1st and 2nd particularly is beginning to irritate!

good spot! which one was faster, surely the zed can get past a 330d was it?

In my opinion and experience from tracking a BMW, i'd say the order in which to upgrade things are: Brake pads, High temp fluid, Braided brake lines and then discs. Overheated pads is a horrible feeling, pedal is still firm, but no braking effect. Next up is boiled fluid - pedal travel goes really long, with no braking effect. if you're only tracking occasionally id say pads and fluid should do it, we've done just that with our beemer 10 track days ago and haven't felt the need to do anything more yet. We get through pads a bit quickly for my liking, but then again the pads are only cheap (EBC Yellowstuff) and discs are dirt cheap, (£24 each) so not really an issue. brake longevity is helped massively by being sympathetic to the brakes - only do 5-6 laps before coming in and letting the car cool down for 10 minutes - and the last full lap on track should be a cool down lap, with braking reduced to maybe 20% of maximum.

hmm, an 04 with that mileage, non GT, i'd say £5.5k - £6k for a good one.

whaaaat?!? thing I don't get, how is a pig different to a sheep or a cow, or a goat or a horse for that matter. if its got four legs and prances around in fields, its fair game to eat in my opinion! that said, if Muslims are unwilling to eat tasty tasty delicious bacon, all the more for me! Mmmmmm bacon...

In a word, awesome. took the beemer a few months back and had a really good time, some really good corners that make you think - theres a slight left into a tight right at the end of the back straight thats tricky, and then a long right that leads immediately into a tight left, easy to get out of shape as you're trying to corner and brake at the same time!

cobra res will be fine on the motorway... i've got one on mine, just driven leeds to coventry at cruise controlled 80mph, girlfriend happily nodding off in the passenger seat. Tres relaxing, the tyre noise is a lot more intrusive (but find some decent smooth tarmac and even thats whisper quiet!)

Great races so far, some great battles. Looking forward to race three hopefully Andy Jordan can make moves!

well when I declared my exhaust with admiral they added a whopping £19 onto my quote, so I don't think they were that bothered. remap might be a bit different, although it will likely fall into the lowest class for engine improvement - you'd see at most a 10% gain in horsepower from a remap, more likely closer to 5%.

61k on what I believe is the original clutch, cant say I've noticed any difference over the last 20,000 miles. It was heavy and had a high biting point then, still heavy and has a high biting point now. Personally I think if you drive smoothly and with mechanical sympathy a clutch should last for ages - I always try and rev match on downshifts, always use the handbrake when stopped on a hill and don't ever do full bore standing starts. Once in gear then fine can use the full performance potential, but its how you change gear that determines clutch longevity.

you'll love it! get it nice and hot and then enjoy the pops and crackles no problems with drone for me, when you accelerate theres a bit of resonance around 2500rpm, but other than that its awesome, well worth the money!

Puma Drift cats are where its at! nice thin sole, extra reinforcement on the heel, last for ages. had my pair for going on two years now, when they wear out I will be replacing them with an identical pair! don't think barefoot driving is for me - I don't like being barefoot in my own house, let alone in my car!

hmmm, well if you do 120 miles a day you'll be able to do 400 miles to a tank, ~£100 in petrol. 120 miles a day = 600 miles a week. 3 months=12 weeks= 7200 miles = 18 tanks of petrol= £1800 in petrol. my advice - keep the zed for when you move closer, then do the 20mile commute in the zed. Until then, buy the cheapest nastiest derv you can off ebay, needs to be taxed and tested for 3 months, naturally. something around the £300 mark. assuming your mpg doubles, you spend £900 in diesel, and you save £600 (and keep the miles off the zed) once the three months are up, either ebay the snotter if theres still tax and mot on it, or scrap it for ~£200 back. commuting is tedious and dull. as long as you have a car that can keep up with traffic, you want to do it as comfortably as possible - so look for cruise control, comfy seats and a cd player on your snotter, and something sizeable and well insulated from road noise. Mondeo diesel maybe?

once we finally get some decent matching tyres on our track BMW, I might well go for some tyre paint. why? because racecar, that's why. wouldn't do it on my 350z roadcar though.

hmmm no harm in checking the obvious things, wheel nuts done up tight, tyre pressures and tracking. after that, have a look at the discs and see if the pads are making full contact across the entire disc, might help to see if a caliper is sticking or something.

haha beauty is in the eye of the beholder it seems! sure its got some weird details, but I love it!

Top Gear's review of the BMW i8 here: http://www.topgear.com/uk/photos/bmw-i8-first-drive-car-review-2014-04-26 Firstly, and most importantly, it looks ruddy fantastic. most definitely a sports car, low and sleek, but with a futuristic edge. and definitely doesn't look like your usual electric car, or even a hybrid. Secondly, maximum 362bhp in a car weighing 1465kgs is plenty to be getting on with. 0-60 in 4.4 seconds is plenty fast enough for me. Thirdly, can run on pure electric for 15 miles, and is therefore roadtax and congestion charge exempt. so what if it doesn't have front cupholders, or that the rear seats are too small for actual adults - I honestly think i'd rather have this over an F Type right now, which just seems so antiquated in comparison!

i'm a tad confused... is it or isnt it a JWT Popcharger?

I didn't welcome... There are plenty of others to do that, I only welcome if a newbie is from the west mids or has owned a car previously I can relate to.

i was really hoping this was a hottie with a B cup, and there would be before and after photos... ah well...

bahahahahahaha it looks terrible! It seems so little effort has gone into it, it's clearly still a 350z, except with a stupid front bumper and even more absurd side blades if you're going to make a 350z look like another car, at least do it properly (but don't forget the wheels ) http://www.carscoops.com/2012/08/would-you-turn-your-nissan-350z-into.html