AngryHippo

Hi guys, Just replaced an upper oil pan on the zed after overtightening the sensor and cracked the original one. Anyway everything is back in now the car cranks but wont start. The fans seem to come on though on notch 3 when turning the key. Also need to bleed the clutch, the clutch is currently slammed to the floor and stuck there, wondering whether this has caused an issue with the immobilizer as I'm not depressing the clutch fully it's already stuck down. I was just after seeing whether I could turn the car over first. I have checked groundings as well as fuses all seem to be fine. Any help would be greatly appreciated Thanks Jay

I totally agree with you, a blown gasket doesnt necessarily mean a new engine. They just said my best option would be to replace the engine, they said it would cost the same, if not more to repair. I guess labour costs yes, they are probably right. They said they did the block test and exhaust gases were found in coolant hence blown gasket. I don't know, I'm not a mechanic and not pretending to be. All I can go off is what I'm told and advised by the people that do it for a living Sent from my SM-T810 using Tapatalk

That's what I thought I would be able to do. no its been an ongoing issue for the last 5 months, havnt driven the car really. As soon as car overheated the once, pulled over and let it cool before driving back home. After replacing rad, kept bleeding system as thought I had an air lock after my rad decided to crack. since then seemed to have stopped overheating, can drive the car but as soon as I started to go over 4k revs, it over pressurised the coolant system and it ended in overflow tank. since then I've developed what seemed like a misfire when I go over 4k revs, so though spark plug or coil pack. Now coolant doesn't end up in overflow, I don't overheat, not losing coolant so no leaks, thought I had finally got rid of all the air and just now had the misfire issue. took it down to Horsham thinking right hopefully simple fix, they did a block test and came back with a blown gasket. recommended replacement engine. Sent from my SM-G925F using Tapatalk

Um....blown headgasket, been quoted 2.5k -3k to get a new engine as a best option Sent from my SM-G925F using Tapatalk

Oh and the sniffer test didn't show anything which is annoying since I wouldn't have spent so much time and money if that stupid thing had actually revealed a headgasket problem in the first place. So frustrating Sent from my SM-T810 using Tapatalk

Update on the situation. Turns out that it's a headgasket that's gone! Took it to Horsham Developments after it sounding like it was misfiring at around 4k revs and they have given me the bad news.....headgasket failure ...awaiting to get more info on it. Sent from my SM-T810 using Tapatalk

No I haven't run a compression test yet Sent from my SM-G925F using Tapatalk

Good man I hope it is just a dodgy rad cap, pressure is always more when you boot the car as the water pump runs faster but it should not be blowing back. What oil temps are you seeing? How much boost and do you have an oil cooler? Just wonder if it is just getting hotter than the rad can handle, I assume the fans are OK and working fine? Keyser Could melted berk hfcs cause an issue?I only say this because issues started happening after a motorway pull and my exhaust apparently glowing red a few months ago. Is it possible for this to make the car run hotter than usual? Sent from my SM-G925F using Tapatalk

Good man I hope it is just a dodgy rad cap, pressure is always more when you boot the car as the water pump runs faster but it should not be blowing back. What oil temps are you seeing? How much boost and do you have an oil cooler? Just wonder if it is just getting hotter than the rad can handle, I assume the fans are OK and working fine? Keyser I know this is a massive long shot, it was mentioned to me that maybe I have melted my berk HFCs and this may be causing car to run hotter than it should. Would this cause an issue?I only say this due to when I went for a drive before all the issues with one of my mates apparently my exhaust was glowing red?!and upon reving on stand still popped out baby flames, which shouldn't really happen with hfcs on should it? Sent from my SM-G925F using Tapatalk

@snjur sorry to hear about your issues too bud. Hopefully yours is fixed. From searching arpund on different forums, there are a lot of people that have issues with mishimoto rads. Which setup you got?vortech v3? It's so annoying, proper love hate relationship with the car atm, when I get to drive it, it's insane with the vortech kit and puts a massive smile on my face. But being able to drive the thing seems to very few and far between at the moment. Sent from my SM-G925F using Tapatalk

My car kept overheating originally, cracked the OEM radiator. Replaced with mishimoto rad and fan setup. The bleed valve at the back started leaking, so replaced that. Replaced my thermostat as thought that may be causing issues. Replaced some hoses that I that may have been getting blocked behind supercharger bracket. Then found a loose radiator hose that was leaking underneath car. Fixed that. After numerous bleeding the system attempts, no overheating, think the air lock had gone. All that happens now is my coolant pisses itself into the overflow. Lol, I did put my stock rad cap back on due to the mishimoto one leaking. Hoping that this is the end of the line now and a new rad cap will fix it. I honestly can't take much more of this. I've replaced pretty much the entire cooling system. Sent from my SM-G925F using Tapatalk

Yeah I'm running a stillen oil cooler on it. I'm not sure what boost I'm running on it, the glowshift boost gauge doesn't seem to work which is annoying, doesn't seem to register any boost, but it's definitely making boost 😠Sent from my SM-G925F using Tapatalk

Thankyou for the responses, I have done a gasket test twice now and both times came back with no issues. I did a test when I first started having issues, and did again a few weeks ago when I drove and the coolant ended up in overflow. I have ordered a cusco rad cap which will hopefully hold the pressure, I've read on other forums that the mishimoto rad seems to have quite a few issues with the cap being faulty. Sent from my SM-G925F using Tapatalk

Another update!still having issues, found a hose was loose that attached to my rad admnd was causing it to leak. Fixed that, replaced a couple other hoses as well, now have the stock bleed valve again and replaced the pipe behind the supercharger bracket with a stock one as the silicon one was getting crushed. I don't overheat anymore which is good but now I have another problem. When I have my mishimoto rad cap on that came with rad, it can't hold the pressure and coolant sprays all over my engine bay!I think i have a dodgy mishimoto rad cap, doesn't seem to hold pressure, it doesn't seem to be very well fitted and wobbles a bit. I have since put my stock rad cap onto my mishimoto rad, fits a lot better but when I boot it hard and come to a stop, the coolant all ends up in overflow tank. I'm confused, is this just the fact that the mishimoto one is a dodgy one and leaking therefore can't hold the pressure and leaks out the top and my stock one can hold the pressure so it don't burst out the top but too much pressure for the cap therefore putting it in overflow?!help would be much appreciated Sent from my SM-G925F using Tapatalk

I'm based down in Ashford near twickenham. I've got a head gasket tester kit which I was advised to check as well so hopefully that will eliminate suspicions of a blown gasket. Realistically how long does can it take to get all the air out of the system?I did it around 3 times, and car drives fine...just when I booted it and drive it really hard did it happen again, whereas before I couldn't even drive down the road without it overheating. The hot air is coming through heaters now after bleeding the system which made me think the air lock had been got rid of. Sent from my SM-G925F using Tapatalk