ChrisB

I want one. Poor lass though - she should have projectile pebble dashed the driver for being way too smug She's a very good wife too - hey love, got a great idea, I'll take you for lunch and make you vom on youtube with a spin in the Godzilla - mine would have given me such an ear bashing..

Got adjusted caster SuperPro compression arm bushes (swapped myself), none of the others - ride is absolutely fine

Front ones are pretty easy (access is good), assuming you can get the nuts undone. Proper soak with oil spray and clean the threads first. Rears, if you need to do them later, are worse

^^ These. Was looking for a picture in my library.. This gold coloured chappie

I don't qualify as a hardcore user like some of the above, but I've got a Dremel 3000 kit. It came with a small set of Dremel bits, but I also purchased a large multi-set of non-Dremel multi-tool bits which were cheap, and in hind sight, much worse quality. I think I'd buy branded Dremel accessories/bits next time. For small cutting jobs and delicate polishing Dremel 3000 is great and a good size. As Payco said above, mains powered (like the 3000 or 4000) is best. Big stuff, e.g. de-rusting front and rear under braces, is better with a wire wheel attached to a mains black and decker drill.

Surely that is ripe for modding? Grind out the blanks, replace with backing mesh? (if you like that sort of thing)

Keeper

Can't have too much data in life

Hate to say it mate, but you don't lose that much oil without knowing about it - especially with your low mileage. Sounds to me like the service lad has dropped a clanger..

Should be epic.. Like the attention to detail

Nismo 370Z - very nice

Just like to thank Mark for this service he provides My car is supercharged and originally Abbey tuned. I bought a copy of UpRev Osiris Tuner from them back at dyno time, and we've been chipping away at some tuning issues since I installed fuel system 2.0 http://www.350z-uk.com/topic/86592-precious-got-a-supercharger/page__st__340#entry1514152 Highly recommended for convenient tweaks to the map

Greetings car nerds. I've got a mini update on an eTuning process that I've been doing with Abbey. I prefer to rest on Mark's extensive tuning experience for the actual map/calibration modification, but in order for him to effect changes, he needs good data. But first, back to where this story starts.. Original Problem I noticed loss of fuel pressure (black line below) at high load (it was also very bumpy). Maybe it was an installation fault (O rings - I did change 'em twice), or a weakness in the old FRS design, or perhaps a weird fuel valve behaviour (cold starting was sluggish) plus running with restrictions in the OEM rails and lines, or a combination of all - but what was clear was a very turbulent fuel delivery as fuel pressure randomly, suddenly, dropped out and recovered when it was really needed when boosting (green line). AFR (magenta line) was previously corrected as best as possible in mapping. Not happy Step forward the CJ Motorsports Stage 2 FRS. If any thing can give good fuel feed, this is it, so I chucked my toys out and ripped the old fuel system out root and branch all the way back to inside the tank. Unfortunately a fix to hardware mucks up the compatibility with the tune as previously the weird fuel supply was mapped out as far as possible to give good dyno. We thought fuelling was iffy at the time, but now it's fixed, there is waaay more petrol supply. Adding the new FRS initially made high demand AFR very rich but does give a nice smooth fuel delivery.. Happy The eTune process JDM's have a AFR logging limitation. This is because the AFR sensor 1 are narrow band which means they only give rich or lean signals balanced on a knife edge around the stoichiometric 14.7 AFR. This is fine for closed loop operation (cruising along or light load) correcting the mixture in realtime, but whenever acceleration is required, the ECM jumps to open loop and sends injector pulses based only on the map in the ECM ROM, ignoring the narrow AF signals. Since we are tuning it, we want to squirt petrol to match the air/fuel target map on acceleration - which takes into account parameters for MAF, IAT, throttle etc in order to set throttle, ignition and cam timing, injector duty etc. This means third party widebands are required. I use a pair of Zeitronix ZT-3 for this. UpRev ROM editor can log directly from Innovate LM but Zeitronix didn't give UpRev a free AFR device allegedly, so it's not directly supported! Why not use Innovate? I'd heard from the internet that early LM devices were a bit cack (later ones are great) and Zeitronix were cool - so here we are. Why not just spend money on an OBD dongle instead of building a logger? UpRev can read 'Nissan proprietary' protocols directly for faster logging than OBD interfaces allegedly. OBD II on JDM is JOBD flavoured, so protocol timings, command codes and responses are opaquely different to the readily available OBDII information on the internet - although this appears to be changing as some wifi/bt dongles and apps like Torque seem to know some JOBD now when they are told to scan for JOBD protocol. I don't have an Android device or fancy buying things at random though. And besides, the missing parameters of wideband AFR and fuel pressure aren't available to the ECM anyway, meaning I'd still need a stand alone logger. Logger systems Hardware from a summary point of view is connected like this And for software nerds, here is a kind of class hierarchy and module map. Perl, C++ and R all have parts in the architecture.. Logging field work The process is pretty much flash-test-log-adjust-repeat. On a finer detail it is -> Receive ROM via email from Abbey -> Flash with Osiris -> Drive to test site (warm up car) -> Clear learned fuel trims (actually this seems to make no difference open loop) using Cipher -> Start ROM editor logging + internal logging -> Road tests WOTs in third gear - dash between parking places -> Save logs, return home -> Prepare and convert logs -> Dropbox + email findings -> Repeat Certain logs are required, and I've been recording all these (some aren't that useful, some are raw ADC values, some are duplicates - but I wasn't sure which were which in UpRev logs originally ): Time, A/F CORR-B1 (%), A/F CORR-B2 (%), Base Fuel Schedule, B-FUEL SCHDL (ms), COOLANT TEMP, Engine Speed, ENGINE RPM (rpm), Fuel Compensation X Trace, Fuel Target X Trace, Fuel Target Y Trace, HI DET, IGN TIMING (BTDC), INJ DUTY (%), INJ PULSE-B1 (ms), INJ PULSE-B2 (ms), INTAKE AIR TMP, Intake Cam VQ Y Trace, INTK CAM TIM-B1 (Deg CA), INTK CAM TIM-B2 (Deg CA), INTK CAM SOL-B1 (%), INTK CAM SOL-B2 (%), KNOCK STRENGTH, LT Fuel Trim B1 (%), LT Fuel Trim B2 (%), MAS A/F -B1 (V), TARGET AFR, Throttle Y Trace, VEHICLE SPEED, Millis, Elapsed, OilV, Oil C, CoolV, Cool C, MAPV, MAP psi, MAP trig, IATV, IAT C, AFR1V, AFR1 n, AFR2V, AFR2 n, FuelV, Fuel psi, Fuel trig As long as Time is the first column, Cipher (or ECUTek) can open and graph the CSV for interactive viewing. I generate my static graphs from slicing out features in the logs that are interesting (ie the WOTs) and plotting these with the application software I wrote. Matching up the Time and Millis fields with an offset value means I can merge the two sets of logging files side by side to get a single unified log file, as they both timestamp at millisecond rates although to find the synchronising point to determine the offset is slightly tedious as it requires inspection of the log file by hand. Zeitronix is capable of updates at 64Hz and my logger samples near 100Hz and stores values up to 40Hz in high rate logging (with occasional pauses for display updates every 1/2 sec), whereas the UpRev logging is more approximate with variably 10-20Hz. To keep file sizes in check, I have a reduced rate logging mode when off boost of about 10Hz. Results Max power is at AFR about 12:1 and peak pressure timing 12-15º after top dead centre. Supercharging means the cylinder charge is extra compressed and contains more molecules - which burns stronger and faster. High octane fuel is even more vital now as this helps prevent the mixture exploding before it is supposed to. A smooth steady burn with a smooth flame front after the spark fires is what is desired - anything else is the infamous knock / detonation condition which is either spontaneous combustion (usually caused if the mixture is lean and hot) or ignition from hot spots causing colliding flame fronts and excessive pressure, incorrectly timed. In a really bad case, peak pressure could occur before TDC, so banging the rising piston and rods, or piston holes from hot spots Cars have knock sensors built in, and the VQ35DE is no different. So far, UpRev logging has not seen a single knock event - I hope the sensor actually works Here is a general idea from the internet Careful timing of cams and ignition in a map established on the first dyno takes care of this and stops the engine exploding. For cylinder cooling, a richer value slightly under 12 is better - but much lower than that and it's bad news as rich burn becomes sooty and slow burning, losing power by missing the pressure sweet spot. The timing map in UpRev is actually a fuel burn time (not direct BTDC angle) and the dyno'd one is still fine for purpose, as are the Abbey fuel targets and cam maps. So that the engine matches these targets, Mark tunes the MAF calibration, which by proportion of the K multiplier gives the basic fuel schedule (BFS). This is the reference for pulse values under current conditions and asthe inputs change, the BFS value for that condition is selected and converted into actual pulse times. Both the Intake Air Temp sensors are in the correct place with the MAF after the S/C, so measure the temp of the air actually going into the engine for a correct, mapped, air mass calculation - the S/C compression heats air as a byproduct of physical gas laws. All this data means 21 different plots are now created per log set. It would be far too nerdy to post a complete set here - so just a choice few follow. Whole trip repeatability of AFR vs MAP can be seen here - note the AFR lean kick just boost comes on - that needs to go And from the combination data, parameters rebased against RPM for a single WOT slice Concluding comments By eTuning, it's a lot better and safer for use now until dyno running within a controlled environment is bookable, (dyno runs would also quantify the effect of changes on power - otherwise it's butt dyno and looking at the slope of the RPM vs time graph). Real time tuning is possible with my version of the JDM ECM - which is impossible on the road for obvious reasons without a co-pilot, but can be done on the dyno for instant feedback. Given the ease of visualisations I'm rather tempted to try minor tweaks myself in the future should I want to do things like change fuel pressure for some reason, and maybe attempt to copy and tweak other maps. The big unknown at the moment is understanding what is the correct safe profiles to expect - which is what the pro-tuners like Mark understand through years of practice. Cause and effect through changing tables and parameters is easy to see, but I need to properly understand what I'm aiming at. Having said that, she's running so well now, I'm not even sure I need a trip to dyno There are some minor wrinkles at both ends in it still - more tweaks and more tests are required to home in on perfection, but as long as I don't change the basic maps, just the sensor calibrations, I reckon it's do-able. There is a bit of lean low RPMs, enrichment delay and too rich high RPMs in there still. Another possibility could be something simple like valet mode fuel cut on speed or revs if I wanted to nobble the car for an extended period. We are thinking of exporting ourselves to Australia one day, which means a long ferry ride for the cars. I quite fancy simulating the cruise control inputs for map switching (my car does not have cruise control - don't want it either) - map selection is then only a few button signals to the ECM and ties to 12V. This shows eTuning and logging is a good way to tweek problems out at lower cost, and with built in logging, set up a low hassle monitoring system for everyday use. ECM flash memory should be good for hundreds of re-programming cycles, so I'm not too worried about memory burn out. The UpRev tuning guide has been fairly informative too. Epic journey Shameless plugs: http://www.350z-uk.c...r-and-standard/ http://cj-motorsport...l-system-vq35de http://uprev.com/sec...nt/osiris-tuner

Superior choice there Stu. The best thing about Cipher is that UpRev claim it uses Nissan proprietary protocols - meaning faster logging rates and higher res data over generic OBD gadgets. My guess is probably half the reason for it's high cost is royalties to Nissan for access to their protocols.

MacBookPro - bootcamp. Just about acceptable when required (but I do agree)

UpRev Tuner (includes Cipher) ..and a OM500 for emergencies (JOBD don't ya know). No help, me - sorry

I like Orange I like blondes

That's a sodding perfume! :lol: Lotus Chrome Orange, or Porsche Riviera Blue. Google them, then tell me I'm wrong. P.S. I'm not. Definitely orange Verses (she's not impressed)

I do my own work - mostly - unless big specialist kit is required. I keep receipts and a detailed spreadsheet log, as well as loads of info related to everything I've touched for upgrades, etc. Got a billion stickers too I've really only ever swapped for parts, crashed or recycled previous cars but would be perfectly happy to buy from a self service enthusiast if knowledge is demonstrated at interview Not much help sorry Oh yeah - I forgot - I keep a build thread on here and photographic evidence. Got an update soon in the pipeline about eTuning

Nice fence Just wondering.. How will the neighbour get to his gas bottles when they are empty (assuming the caravan is static)? Looks very tight, and there are posts now - is there a gate?

Yes and No There are bodge devices like the HKS speed defencer that stops transmitting faster pulses above 175kmh (the Jap speed limit) - so make it look like 112MPH when actually travelling faster. The conversion of KMH to MPH can be independent of that feature - it is possible to convert 'chip' KMH to MPH re-using JDM clocks as required by SVA and still have the limit - my car came that way (converted to MPH but 112MPH limit), so not 'always'. On the other hand, the ECM has parameters called 'Speed Limiter (Throttle cut)', 'Rev Limiter (fuel cut)' and 'Rev Limiter (Fuel restore)' which are all accessible via ROM editor in the UpRev suite of programs. Reflash removes the limit completely

I agree. Speaking from a wholly biased long term JDM owning perspective.. Insurance is person/company dependant - I've had 2 imports (Zed and Subaru) previously and neither had quotes any worse than UK. UK GT pack - whoop-dy if you want a cassette player in your car, when you really want to upgrade to aftermarket double din touch screen. Lower JDM starting price means more money in the kitty for the aftermarket mods you really want. Cloths seats are comfy BTW in all weathers. Many JDMs already come already fitted with Brembo brakes - some don't - so watch that if you want Brembos (you do). JDMs can come with open diffs allegedly - again mine has the VLSD, so it varies. It appears the smooth diff pumpkin look doesn't always mean open. Inflated scare stories about rust protection - recent imports tend to be imported rust free (imports are getting old now admittedly) but may have less under seal. I Dynax'd my rust free bucket when I bought it 4 years ago, and recently cleaned and Hammerited the entire underside. Looks beautiful down there now. I'm a bit too keen sometimes though. UpRev is the best way to get rid of the Jap speed limit, after you've spent the extra money on exhausts, plenum spacer, etc. It may still have a 112MPH limit even after the KMH has been converted to MPH with a device, but this limit is deleted with UpRev ECM reprogramming If the car looks good - go for it

^^

Hot girl, hot car, loadsa money and still a tw@t Funny old world..

Box has got character. Mine's a CD005. It's very mechanical and likes rev matching to smoothly get a gear. Don't try to get into second unless you are doing exactly 8MPH satnav speed when it's cold. Feel every cog and mechanism meshing when you are changing and don't force it in and it works fine Personally I think it's old school cool that way Yes fresh Nissan gear oil and Molyslip helps too.