longsh07

Here we go then:

It's not that awful looking Gumpert Apollo S thing is it?

Ah, man really? After all that. Didn't catch fire did it? Had that happen in my 106 GTi when the oil pressure sensor blew out and squirted oil on the manifold. Not an experience I want to repeat, thank god for the extinguisher I had installed.

How'd it go? Get through in the end?

Much of a muchness really. There may be fractional difference between them but your not going to notice it. Personally I tend to stay away from filters that need oiling. HKS is foam style, give it a wash and let it dry out thoroughly and it should last just as well as any other type. Edit: there you go, as @veeg33 says

Not quite, sorry if it wasn't clear. Induction kit = more induction sound, likely small gain in top end power but at the cost of low end torque. (general for all indication kits on most cars I believe) Drop in high flow filter = small gain in power without loss of low end torque. Can be cleaned rather than binned at service time. Velocity stack = modification to airbox to improve smoothness of airflow. Fitted as standard to later model 350s but can be retro fitted. Should help pick up a little extra power but again, not much. Hope that helps

I believe general consensus on 350's is that high flow panels like the HKS drop in one are generally better than going full induction kit. 350's airbox is very simple with no complex bends or large resonators compared to some cars so no real benefits in replacing other than for sound reasons. Velocity stack from later model cars also helps if you don't have one as standard. Edit: sorry, in terms of performance you might gain a little with a drop in high flow filter + velocity stack but its unlikely to be much. For the sake of a few quid to get one you can clean as opposed to chuck away, and the possibility of a bit of extra power, they seem worth it in my eyes.

This.

Titanium wheel nuts? Wow, I mean that's pretty cool but £300 for 20! And I thought my Nismo nuts were steep! (https://www.nengun.com/nismo/wheel-nut-set) Edit: Anyone looking for cheap strong nuts, go see Driftworks https://www.driftworks.com/steel-wheel-nuts-m12-black-and-silver.html

As above. Slave cylinder + braided line + new fluid. No point mucking about, just get it all done in one go. You can forgo the braided line as it's usually the salve cylinder, but I'd personally recommend it to cover all bases

The cutting out, difficulty starting happened to me. Turned out to be grubby throttle body. Give it a clean and see if that improves things, make sure you disconnect the battery or all plugs on the throttle body before moving the butterfly!

That looks about right @Adrian@TORQEN It's the bit seen in these photos. Bolted to the upright and into the back of the caliper

There is a small piece of rigid brake line on the axle itself after the hose, it could be that portion that they are referring to?

Ah gutted your DIY one(s) didnt work out. Was some incredible machining and design work that went into that. Will be following this with interest.

No direct experience for this with 350Zs but I'm pretty sure any BC Racing coilovers dealer can get you any spring combination you want. Id be surprised if you cant get the same with HSD. If you just want adjustment then maybe stick to spring rates as close to stock as possible? I assume the 350 coilovers will have solid topmoutns? That will reduce the comfort. Some BCs have rubber tops (GC8 Impreza rears do), might be able to request those too if they make them. Sorry, that's not necessarily directly helpful but hopefully useful!

Mine got replaced roughly 20Ks ago and it's pretty noisey. Wouldn't worry unless it's causing you problems

Probably worth checking the state of the throttle body and butterfly valve. I had a similar (ish) issue once which went away after cleaning that up. If you are going to do this disconnect the battery or all the plugs on the throttle body before moving the butterfly! Worth a shot and might be a cheap and easy fix.

Welcome to the forum! You could try @ZMANALEX or it might be best to find someone breaking a 350 on eBay or something. They occasionally come up for sale here. @Tarmac@TarmacSportzmight be able to get you a poly one instead but not sure if he has OE style ones or not

Think that is model specific, mine has both a mic and the interior sensors. Interested to know how to do this too EDIT: Found this Looks like it's one piece. Maybe with the lights and stuff out you might be able to remove it. EDIT 2: For removing headliner but explains how to get the mic part out

Loving this build so far, keep up the good work! Also, those ally mounts!

What have you driven before out of curiosity?

Good info that Stoptech also have some really informative stuff on their site: http://www.stoptech.com/technical-support/technical-white-papers This is my personal favourite: http://www.stoptech.com/technical-support/technical-white-papers/-warped-brake-disc-and-other-myths

Weight transfer. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lift-off_oversteer Edit: More info: http://www.drivingfast.net/oversteer/ By FAR the best way to correct it is to understand why it happens and how to avoid it No tyres or suspension changes are going to get rid of it I'm afraid

Just stumbled on this thread, I recognise that yellow one Car looking awesome by the way

Google is your friend - Looks like they are a straight swap though you'll need new bolts to mount the rear calipers. Also looks like, yes, the brake discs are bigger than the standard JDM brakes. https://my350z.com/forum/brakes-and-suspension-diy/266223-diy-for-stock-non-brembo-to-stock-brembo-brakes.html https://www.kohlercreated.com/how-to-upgrading-oem-350z-brakes-to-oem-350z-brembo-brakes/ https://my350z.com/forum/brakes-and-suspension/436716-brembo-brake-conversion.html