longsh07

Will look to head up to Bedford then. Their open pit lane days are considerably cheaper than Silverstone. I know what you mean about concentration always pretty spaced out after each session. Amazing how much concentration it takes.

Will second this +1000. But if on a budget I suspect you will be ok first with OEM/OE spec disc and PF01 or 11 pads, high temp RBF and ss lines and go from there with the zed. Not sure how many track days I'd do in the 350 but will absolutely consider the PF01's. Might go for something more mid-range for the disc though as I expect a 2 piece will be a little bit wasted. Was thinking DBA or Brembo slotted discs would be a nice better than stock improvement without a single disc costing the same as a pair!

I remembered not to stick the handbrake on

I read the horror stories as well and even got in touch with EBC about it. Decided to give them a go to form my own opinion and I'm happy with my purchase. I can see they probably aren't the greatest pad but for my needs they are pretty spot on Appreciate your input, will probably end of avoiding EBC for the 350 anyway and going with something from PF or CL.

Sounds like ATE 200 would suit the Civic with its YS pads but will shop around a bit more thoroughly when I decide to take the 350 out on track. To be honest I probably abuse the Civic more than I should have done but that was kind of the point. I wanted to find out what its limits were I should go next. Its all a learning experience at the end of the day and if anything I've come away thinking my driving is what needs work next, not the car.

That's fair enough. I didn't do the work myself so I cant say but given what I felt prior to the track day Im confident there was no air in the system. Something I read online suggests that because of the proximity of the pad to the disc (when not engaged) heat is radiated from the pad to the disc which is then cooled by the vents. Obviously when the two come in contact friction=heat which must be transferred. I was wondering if either the pad is bad at transferring the heat to the disc (which would mean more heat in the caliper) or if the disc isnt accepting the heat as readily as it could. Just a thought really. Probably barking up the wrong tree. Will do - Thank you

Good to know about YS pads and the fluid Yes - 30 minute sessions. It was a novice track taster day so it consists of 2 warm up/familiarisation laps, about 25 minutes of actually driving and 1 cool down lap. I've only ever booked onto these days just so that I'm not over doing it. Plus if issues do crop up I know I haven't wasted loads of money on a full day.

What makes you say the yellowstuff pads are so bad? I know they won't be as good as a proper track pad but in my situation I need a pad that will work on the road primarily but can withstand some abuse for the handful of track seasons the car sees. Have heard good things about superblue so might try that next but I've got another unopened bottle of RBF600 so I might as well use that for the time being. Sent from my HTC One M9 using Tapatalk

- Pads (EBC YellowStuff) were consistent all day so I'm happy the pads are up to the job. The paint hasn't discoloured either. Pads were replaced in about Nov/Dec last year, about a month after I brought the car - Running OEM Honda discs fitted at same time as discs. - Could it be then that the pads are not transferring enough heat to the disc which then causes the caliper (and thus fluid) to get excessively hot? If so, is that discs to pads causing this? No, no air in the system to my knowledge. Japex fitted the discs, pads, and lines for me so and I'm pretty sure they use a pressure bleeding system. Pedal was sharp and instant on the road. Brakes still stop well but the pedal requires a longer press to achieve the same force as before the track day. I'm thinking a rebleed will solve my problem but I was wondering how to prevent this in future. Pads - Potentially yes if they are not transferring enough heat to the disc. Performance wise I thought they were spot on. Discs - Yes, new OEM discs in the last few months. Tuition/driving - Something I'm considering for the next time I go on track as I know where are a number of areas I'd like to improve, braking being one of them. Ducts - This was my first thought as a quick fix. BBK - Good to know, I was wondering if a larger caliper would dissipate more heat. Running Yokohama AD08R's. They were brilliant. Not had an alignment done so something to think about. Weight wise as I tend to use the Civic daily I dont want to start stripping it out or anything but I could look at temporarily removing the rear seats or something. I've no spare wheel and I dont keep any junk in the car. I'll boot my passenger out next time Thats my plan for the weekend. I'm using Motul RBF600 anyway but flushing the old out with some new cant hurt. I'm happy with my line and fluid, pads I went for the yellows because of the R90 regs so maybe that choice introduced the problem by not allowing them to transfer heat to the disc as effectively. Would be a last resort as again its supposed to be a daily driven car that I can track now and again without worrying about it. Agreed. When I tracked the MX5 with greenstuff pads I had to slow down for a couple of laps to let the brakes cool before they came back up. This time in the civic with yellowstuff I didnt have that fade but I've now got this spongy pedal which makes me think its boiled fluid. I knew there would always be a compromise somewhere with trying to own a jack-of-all-trades car but as long as I understand where they are and what to do about each issue I can, replace parts or adapt my setup and/or driving to get the most of out of the car Thanks for all the input!

I think the pads and discs are fine. They still bite hard its just the pedal has gone spongy. I didn't notice it until the drive home and the drive to work the next day. I mean bleeding the brakes might be all it needs to bring it back

As cool as that sounds I'd want to drive the cars on the road too and that might be a little sketchy in winter I'm not sure "I need to keep my brakes hot or they will freeze" is a legitimate excuse for speeding.

Have done braided brake lines on both cars. Civic has goodridge lines, OEM discs, and YellowStuff pads. 350 has hosetechnik lines, OEM discs (which need changing at next pad swap), and Hawk Ceramic pads (which will need to be changed if/when I do a track day in the 350). That's what I'd aim to do if possible and I go down the ducting route.

Track day experts, I need some advice. First a minor caveat - Posting here because I generally get the best advice on this forum. While my question will apply to my 350 in future (which is why I posted in the 350 mods section) I'm actually after more general advice which could apply to any car. I took my FN2 Civic on a track day at Silverstone on Sunday and had a whale of a time chucking it around. I learnt from my mistakes with the MX5 and made sure I fitted higher temp pads (EBC YellowStuff) before I went which held up great and were consistent across both 30 minute sessions. What has happened though is I've now got a mushy pedal which I'm going to assume is from boiling the brake fluid locally at the calipers. Quite surprised by this by this as its Motul RBF600 but I know my driving was not a smooth as it could have been and I left traction control on so there may well have been extra heat build up caused by traction control using the brakes to stabilise the car. I dont think the pads are glazed as they still bite but it just takes a longer pedal push. Regardless I'm going to bleed the brakes and inspect everything properly at the weekend and see how they feel afterwards. The real question is what options do I have to keep my brakes cool and prevent the fluid from boiling? (The easy answer of slow the F down is not an option but I'm open to learning better braking techniques). I know I can run some ducting to the disc centre to help cool the entire disc but are there other solutions? Do BBK's aid with cooling because of the larger monoblock calipers? What about discs? Do 2 piece discs cool better than regular 1 piece discs? And do 'heat treated' 'cryo treated' discs actually make a blind bit of difference? What about the 350's Brembos? How do they cope with excessive heat from track driving? Anyone boiled their brake fluid? Anything other advice you can give is welcome!

Yep. Wasted a lot of time on this to get no concrete answer. Sent from my HTC One M9 using Tapatalk

SOME INFO ON ECE R90 For those still following this topic I just wanted to post a quick update that I totally forgot to do at the time. While researching all of this I decided to try and find the ECE R90 regulation myself (attached). I also decided to contact a number of manufactures and my insurance company to get their input. Amongst the 'Our pads are no R90 but buy them anyway' replies I actually managed to scrape together some quite useful information. Before I get into the actual detail of R90 I just wanted to say thank you to EBC. EBC was the most helpful company I came across while asking for info! I had a very long email exchange with one of their technical guys that went into proper detail, not just sales crap. Gained an awful lot of respect for them through this exchange as they were straight up and honest about what to expect from their pads. To summarise: Fitting non-R90 pads to a car used on the road is a massive grey area. It appears that R90 only applies to the manufacturing requirements/process of brake components. It does not (as far as I can see) have anything to do with the fitting of these pads to a vehicle. My insurance company were prepared to insure me if I wanted to fit non-R90 brake pads. No one was able to tell me if fitting non-R90 pads to a taxed, insured (with brakes declared), MOT'd car used on the road was either legal or illegal. EBC even asked me to let them know if I found any more info on this. If manufactures dont know, how the hell are we supposed to know!? As far as I can see and anyone could tell me there is no UK law governing the use of these non-R90 pads on the road. 'Not for road use' is basically a statement that allows reputable manufactures to sell uprated or race pads to the general public without falling foul of the EU legislation. In theory however it also means you could buy shoddy copy pads that perform well below a safe limit and have no legal come back if they have this statement on them. The important question: 'Can I use non R90 approved pads on the road?' The answer is: Legally? Who knows. Its a bit of a gamble should something happen and your brakes and brought into question. Even if you fit non-R90 pads that perform better than OEM pads I highly doubt any manufacture would want to be involved to fight your corner. At the end of the day the choice is down to the individual. You are ultimately responsible for the maintenance and legality of your vehicle. Clear as mud... R090r3e_01.pdf ECE-TRANS-WP29-2012-4e.pdf

Oh yeah I agree. For one, track tyres are limited sizes in 19". Much more flexibility in the 18s.

Just found this on Youtube which I thought was worth a watch. They compare a not quite stock 18x8.5 ET30's (225/45 Front, 245/45 Rear) vs a 19x8.5 245/35 Front / 19x9.5 275/35 Rear ET22 setup on a 35h Anniversary 350Z around Tsukuba. For those just interesting the results the 19" were slightly faster but they said the tyres were more unstable than the 18". Actual lap time difference was 0.3 seconds but they said that your average driver might be slower on the 19". They also asked the question if the cost increase is worth it for 0.3 seconds. Skip to 7:20 for the actual comparison on the 350. http://youtu.be/o6Glkf4jwkM Something to think about before you buy your wheels (unless its just for looks)

Gunmetal 2004 350 followed me down the A6 into Luton. I was in the red FN2 civic with the R888 plate. You've followed me before when I was in my Yellow GT4 350Z (also with an R888 plate) Sent from my HTC One M9 using Tapatalk

Oi I get that but thats not what I wanted them for

Yeah me too! Strikes me as the sort of thing you'd normally be ripped off for. Might get them anyway just so I font get the car grubby when it comes to swapping them over!

No? Fair enough. If 888's are OK I should have though AD08R's would be fine as they are not really considered a proper track day tyre.

Planning to buy a set of Yokohama AD08R's for my FN2 Civic but as I won't be using them all year round I'll need to store them over winter. From what I've read there is a chance of them cracking if they get too cold because they are a harder compound. I'll have to store them in a shed so I wanted to get something to insulate them a bit it not completely. Has anyone used wheel/tyre storage bags at all? If so what brand were they, were did you get them from, and were they any good? Tried to find some that said they were insulated but that doesn't seem to be a thing. Found these on Demon Tweeks which look pretty thick so thought they'd do. Anyone used them? Seem to have pretty good reviews online http://www.demon-twe...UFF0aAjPq8P8HAQ

Glad you got it sorted Pete

Check if the interior lights are coming on when you open the door. If not, chances are the issue is with the door open/closed sensors Edit: If it is, pop the rubber cap off then spray a little WD40 on it and press it in a few times. That should drive out any moisture that got in and stopped it working properly.