DannyBoy

Mine was next to useless when I got the car, I could pull the handle up as far as it would go and it still wouldn't hold on any kind of hill. I adjusted it when i had the centre console out of the car, it's really simple to do and the handbrake is now about what you'd expect, it'll hold on pretty much anything if you pull it hard enough, i'd definitely recommend taking the time to do it. DB

WHAT!?!?!?!?! Didn't you jump in the motor and go to ask him what his problem was? I was actually so shocked that I hadn't really figured out what had happened until he was already round the corner. If he'd have been on foot he would have been in trouble. DB

I've had mine over a month now and the only reaction to it i've ever had was some reprobate cycling past as I was washing it and spitting at it. He missed but i hardly feel like that's the point, who would think that's even a remotely ok thing to do? I didn't buy the car to get me noticed but it is a bit depressing that it seems to actually attract abuse. DB

^^^^ That actually would be more effective Hydrocarbons do not conduct electricity and therefore could only possibly be affected by diamagnetic effect, which is so small it might as well not exist and even if it did have an effect it would only be to make the molecules move away from the magnet an undetectably small amount. It is NOT going to 'change the alignment' or cause any effect on a molecular level. It just cant. Based on the actual science that i know, I would have to say anything claiming to magnetically influence fuel is total bumf. End Rant DB

Given that 'Turbomax' also make what they call a 'vortex generator' that saves you 30% on fuel (free-spinning fan that sits in your intake pipe, totally useless), i'd say the likelihood of this being anything other than a complete con is pretty low. If it looks too good to be true it probably is. DB

Bear in mind that the £250 he's quoted would only be for the y-pipe and mid-pipe replacement sections, you'd still have to find the backboxes/tips to go on them and I can't see them being that cheap. You say you don't think £700 can be justified, but ask yourself why people still pay it? Because you get something (for £700) which has been properly developed and tested and will work. Out of interest, why are you after a dual? DB

"Is it a fundamental rule?? I've heard people say this all my life, but im sure it's not true." As I posted earlier in the thread, it is NOT true that retailers have to sell mislabelled goods at the displayed price. most of them will just to avoid an argument but they are under no obligation whatsoever to honour it if a genuine mistake has been made, so on that basis i'm fine with this guy refunding my money. DB

Manufacturers who specialise in exhausts and have all the dimensions of the underside of the car still often manage to make systems that don't fit very well, I'd suggest the likelihood of your local pipe bender being able to do it any better is slim, especially with a dual which the Zed is not technically supposed to have meaning you'll have no stock parts to copy. But just my £0.02 DB

Unfortunately I actually do, lol, looks like i'll have to see Abbey about some DBAs instead. £40 would have been nice rather than £400 but i doubt any of us were really expecting any different. DB

It was only the 2.7 mate, the Boxster S has a 3.2, and that would be a very close thing, i drove one before i got my Zed and if anything the Boxster felt like it would be quicker round a track. i have a sneaking suspicion they deliberately chose the 2.7 because the 3.2 might have won, lol. DB

I agree totally with buster on this one, i have the carbon version of the nismo one and was worried i was trading looks for comfort, but it's SOOOO much nicer to use than the OEM one. somehow it's even solved the crunchy 1st to 2nd shift DB

I asked exactly the same thing on here before i bought mine and the opinion seemed to be that it's not really known at what point the zed tends to 'die' because none have really reached that point yet, despite there being quite a few 100k+ zeds kicking around, so i stopped worrying about it and just bought one i liked the look of. In the end i paid 8k for a 45,000 mile '53 (04) plate, which wasn't a bad deal but you could probably find better. 10 grand for a 40k car would seem a little steep unless it's immaculate (which mine wasn't) DB

ROFL, apparently it's 4 wheel drive as well... DB

So has anyone managed to work out if these are supposed to be the same disks we got on the car in the first place? DB

Not sure how this works online, but in a shop if something is mis-labelled, the retailer (contrary to popular belief) actually doesn't have to sell the item at the displayed price and can charge their normal list price for it. Still, hopefully the rules for Ebay are different and the entire forum is getting some cheap disks DB Ps. despite the above have just taken a punt, this could be fun

Just read through it and it really does advertise the front discs, and both of them too. HAS to be a con surely, 2 discs for £40? you couldn't even sell fakes that cheap and make money. DB

Right, time has come for a new exhaust, as my current one consists of a rotten OEM midpipe bodged onto a badly fitting unidentified backbox that sounds like a tin can. I've narrowed it down to two options: 1. Milltek+Berks, can get them from the UK, known quality and will definately pass trackday noise regs. 2. AAM 2.5 inch true dual with AAM HFCs, need to be shipped from the US, unknown quality (but vouched for by a forum trader), potentially too loud for trackdays. Basically it comes down to whether the higher price of the AAM will be represented as increased performance, or whether i just end up with 'true dual' bragging rights (couldn't care less). I know the milltek is a very good quality exhaust but can it come close to a true dual for performance gains on a N/A car. Would really appreciate some input here to help swing it because I just can't decide. DB

CAI kits will make it sound better, but will almost certainly lose you 2 or 3 horsepower as they suck in warm air from the engine bay. If it's noise you're after then go for an induction kit, if it's power you want get an '06 onwards airbox (or an earlier one with the modified velocity stack kit) and a decent panel filter. As far as i know, a dual air intake would only fit on the HR engined Zeds (not yours) as the HR has a dual air intake as opposed to the DE's single intake, but intakes should be interchangeable between US/UK cars as long as they have the same engine, but someone may well come along in a minute and tell me i'm talking Bo!!ocks. DB

Here's a good one; it's cheaper for me to insure my car parked on the road outside my house rather than on my station where it is parked 200 metres from and in clear view of an ARMED GUARD and 150 metres from the RAF police guard house 24 hours a day in a car park that only those stationed on base have access to, explain that please someone. DB

You have to get pretty much all of them from the states, a new Vortech V-3 full kit (which is the kit i'm planning on getting) is about $5000 to $6000 depending on where you get it from, but that's without shipping or tax, so you're looking at dollars for pounds once you take that into account. Used you're looking at around half that, but i'd want to know EXACTLY who had installed it and tuned it etc etc as that will make a big difference as to how likely it is to fail, also which version it is, as early Vortechs had issues with really noisey bearings, and the V1/2 and V3 have fundamentally different oil systems. If you can't find the info your after searching on here, then try 350z-tech.com (sorry for the alternative forum link mods) which is a US forum. they're a bunch of flame-artists so i wouldn't bother posting, but there's a LOT of info on forced induction setups there. Seems to me you'd benefit from doing a fair bit more research before deciding which way to go, a Vortech might cost 5K, but you'll be looking at the same again for supporting mods, fitting and tuning, so it's a big comittment. DB

With the GT4 you will have a slightly more powerful version of the VQ35DE Revup engine, but for modification purposes it's just a Revup. Supercharger-wise, the big three (IMO) are: Vortech: centrifugal, pretty cheap, and good power gains for a bolt on ATI Procharger: centrifugal, fairly cheap, also bolt-on, but a fair few reliability issues reported, particularly on the US forums Stillen: twin-screw, awesome low down torque but lower peak power, also a bolt on but to get big gains will cost almost as much as a twin turbo setup hope that helps DB

Fairly sure there are plenty of superchargers available mate, I can think of at least three currently available kits off the top of my head. did you have a particular one in mind? DB

That seems to depend on the unit, I fitted a Pioneer AVH P4200DVD double din unit a few weeks ago and the volume seems to match up pretty much exactly to the old Bose unit with no line booster, possibly even a little louder. DB

I fitted a P4200DVD (essentially identical as far as connectors go) a few weeks ago, and the only cable splicing that was required was to solder the two loose green and silver wires together (can't actually remember exactly what they were attached to but they were pretty obvious as they were both only connected at one end), but even without doing this the HU still turned on and operated, it just didn't turn the amp on so I got no sound. From what I remember the wiring looms would only fit together the correct way, so you may have to consider that the HU might be DOA. If there's a car audio specialist near you take it along and they'll have a test bench they can plug it into to check if there's a fault, as well as being able to do an 'idiot check' on your wiring. i've done this before and the guys didn't even charge me anything for it. DB

Yep, my clutch makes all the wierd noises you could think off, in fact the whole car is easily the worst i've owned for random unidentifiable noises. on the other hand its the nicest to drive by a country mile, so i guess you can't have it all. DB