Keyser

@ Dan You don't need PS mate you need a molotov cocktail

Fixed that for you

You are putting as much work into fabricating jigs, stands and holders as you are the rebuild - Hats off to the dedication mate. I recon you will have that bonnet lined up 2nd attempt (well fingers crossed) Keep up the good work

The old switches won't fit the new door cards but the face lift switches will plug into the existing harness, you will need to add a wire if you want the cubby/drink holder light in the face-lift door cards to come on other than that it's an easy swap

O darn, maybe I should think bigger

along

FYI - Progress is still on hold, Local Technician has approved new structural engineers foundation plans, CCTV/Video survey has been done and we have no problems requiring work before we can start. So why are we on hold? Well even though the local guy has emailed me to confirm we can go ahead and I have sent that to the waterboard head office they still apparently have to send the plans to him for approval he must approve them and send them back - me sending his approval apparently does not count So I will be back on the phone on Monday chasing everyone so we can get the bit of paper that says Yes you can carry on. I'll keep you updated as and when things happen (if ever)

Funny you should say that as we are now in the same boat I got the engine as it came up now but it is already under a blanket in the storage locker I couldn't put it in my garage as Suzi is stuck in there Don't worry though as soon as the new garage is built if you haven't got bored and sold her Suzi has first dibs for work. Of course if your following my garage build you will be aware that due to a mains sewer crossing the back garden we have made absoultley no progerss for the last 2 weeks and nothing booked for this week so currently running a month behind Still hoping to get in there for the winter though and with my new heater I'll be happy to tinker on your build through the cold and wet season.

This is a bit of a cross breed - Gen 1 engine but with gen 2 1340 crank and fly, this is because the Gen 2 crank is both stronger and runs the 26 tooth fly wheel which makes it much better for timing with fuel injection against the 8 tooth Gen 1 flywheel Funny you should mention Sean as this engine was built by Malcolm you may know him as well, he has had quite a few bikes in Street Fighter etc and he used to work at Big CC Now runs his own bike shop down in Eastbourne

Good afternoon everyone Ever since I became the proud owner of my Radica SR3 track toy I have been doing a search on eBay every week or so for - Hayabusa, Hayabusa Turbo or Hayabusa spares or repairs hoping that eventually I would find a deal that would make the option to add a turbo to her a realistic idea The other thing I had to bear in mind is I am seriously considering doing some hill climb and sprint events with the aid of my mentor in that department Andy James. Now Andy did point out that if I turbo my current engine a 1.5l then I would go up a class due to the turbo uplift but if I turbo a standard 1340cc Busa I would stay in the same group. Keeping all that in mind and add it to the fact that when I got the Radical it was not A1 (I couldn't afford it if it was ) I had planned to run her for a season or 2 and then a rebuild and probably a colour change. There is nothing badly wrong with her just needs some TLC and some tidying up. She has a few scratches and battle scars and the electrics are suffering both from various modifications over the years as well as some water damage. In my usual way I set about searching for parts I already have some spare wheels and a few other minor bits including the already fitted LED indicators. Anyway my eBay searches have paid off and the turbo dream is a little closer, earlier today I collected this little lot - The engine - originally designed for a Hayabusa drag bike aiming at 700HP has never been run just built ready. Engine Spec - SUZUKI HAYABUSA GEN 1 TURBO ENGINE TOTAL REBUILD USING ALL NEW PARTS - 1 INCH BILLET FLAT SUMP SWINGING OIL PICK UP AND ANTI SURGE BAFFLE BILLET UP RATED OIL PRESSURE RELIEF VALVE UP RATED OIL PUMP DRIVE GEAR BILLET OIL FILTER , WITH REMOVABLE INNER GAUZE BRAND NEW GEN 2 1340 CRANK SHAFT, LIGHTENED AND FULLY RACE BALANCED (BALANCE GEAR REMOVED) CARRILO CONRODS J E TURBO PISTONS (9.5:1) TOOL STEEL PINS BRAND NEW GEN 2 BIG END AND MAIN BEARINGS HEAVY DUTY CYLINDER STUDS AND NUTS HEAVY DUTY CRANKCASE STUDS AND NUTS RUNNING A 26 TOOTH FLYWHEEL APE HEAVY DUTY ROLLER CAM CHAIN CONVERSION WITH ADJUSTABLE CAM SPROCKETS CRANE TURBO CAM SHAFTS 60LB UP-RATED VALVE SPRINGS 1mm OVER SIZED STAINLESS STEEL INLET AND EXHAUST VALVES MANUAL CAM CHAIN TENSIONER CYLINDER HEAD PORTED AND FLOWED UP-RATED 5TH AND 6TH GEARS TOOL STEEL SHIFT SHAFTS HEAVY DUTY SHIFT STAR DETENT KOSMAN OUTRIGGER /BEARING SUPPORT POLISHED BILLET GENERATOR COVER 2 STAGE LOCK UP CLUTCH BILLET LOCK UP CLUTCH COVER BILLET STARTER GEAR COVER HIGH FLOW BREATHER COVER . EMTES OIL RECOVERY PUMP FOR DRAINING TURBO . Turbo - Suzuki Hayabusa Turbo kit. GARRETT ROLLER BEARING TURBO T04Z TWIN TIAL WASTE GATES 50MM TIAL DUMP VALVE BILLET PLENUM WITH INTER-COOLER BUILT IN This is not the turbo that was going on the engine (that was much bigger) this one is better for my application and should be better at the lower and mid-range rpm, theoretical max HP from the pair is around 600HP but I am aiming for a much more modest 350 - 400 which should give me somewhere in the region of 700BHP per ton in the finished car That should be errrr Lively So that's the teaser trailer you just need me to finish the new garage build and get Wasso's V8 Build palmed off on somebody and I'll be ready to start. Watch This Space ......................................................

if it is the fishing rod has been removed already Same wheels though - good spot

100ml doesn't sound much but that could be getting on for 500ml per 1000 miles at that level you are getting into being worried territory - valve seals, maybe rings. Have a search on here few people have tried various things - oil catch can cleaning cam cover vents or thicker oil but if your burning oil you are burning oil and that is a sign of a worn engine (unless you just stuck a supercharger on it in which case they do burn a bit ) Good luck

Nothing brave about it - Not my car

I'm only posting as Buster used my camera to take the pics Don't shoot the messenger have a look at the pics and make your own mind up

Nice work on the respray - I see you had the wheels refurb'd as well Looks the nuts mate

That would be my guess - Cats are great for hiding a bit of smoke and for "cleaning" the exhaust gases (to be fair it is what they are designed to do) Your nice new de-Cats are just a straight through pipe nothing to filter the gases so you get to see them IMO nothing has drastically gone wrong with the engine you just get to see it a bit now. Wouldn't be overly worried at this point if it's just a puff on start up and from idle away, if you start looking like a smoke machine then get worried

Maybe be worth a shot in the dark though

looking very clean

Maybe someone could shoot over to the owners place and see if you really are getting that much bang for your buck.

My tuppence worth then I'm FI in the 370 and was (along with NOS in the 350 ) my much lower powered track car is NA but a darn site quicker round the track than a Zed in other words I don't mind what or how the engine works, Money - I "waste" loads on my cars is one way to say it however it is what I want to spend it on rather than "waste" it on some travel agent for the pleasure of standing in queues at an airport then sitting on some beach bored - each to there own, Spend it how you like you can't take it with you Onto the OP's points Dyno figures don't tell the complete story especially BHP, you need torque figures and how the power is delivered, I had cams (on FI) and they made little difference to BHP the same applies to the head work however I did gain torque compared to other similar builds but the main advantage was drive-ability I got a massive amount of that torque in the mid range where you want it - not just at WOT but getting up and down the speeds round the bends etc. Again this is where Dyno figures play a part - a car kicking out 310 at the hubs may well have its arse handed to it by a car with 280 but better power delivery and more in the mid-range. (Driver ability not withstanding) I think the main "don't bother with NA" is purely from a bang for your buck perspective. If you want NA then you should build NA If the budget allows then I would look at an engine rebuild with some high comp pistons basic head work and mild cams, some off the shelf headers and a decent off the shelf true dual will be more than adequate for your needs and keep the cost down on custom fabrication work. Plenum spacer and a CAI combined with a re-map should see 300+ at the hubs and a very derivable and relatively quick Zed. I recon that can be done in your budget as well - including buying a spare engine to have all the work done on so you can keep driving yours and when it's all ready one out one in and back on the road K

I don't see what all the fuss is about I'm going to shoot on to the next thread

Congrats on the purchase mate - hope it all goes well

Luv that Brings back some memories s well

along Good luck with the restoration, hope you turn her back into a top notch Zed (don't forget the pictures when updating us )