Keyser

Thanks mate we need to stand up against these forum admins putting us down At least you me and DogyRev have all got proper tool boxes Mr G just has an old draw

Man up and get on with it! Great to see you are ready for the next stage and she is back with you at last Like the makeover the wall cupboards doors changed colour and multiplied just with a good clean Keep the updates coming Don't start, I'm already a nervous wreck even thinking about touching it. The plastic is super thin and what the bodyshop provided. The next job is to cover any vulnerable bits with the soft 2.5mm foam for working on it. There is part of me that wants to crack on and start putting bits back on and the half that says don't touch it you'll f#ck something up. I've got Chris (Keyser) voice in my head saying " man up and get on with it " Don't listen to him he has no idea what he's taking about, I mean have you ever seen him put anything meaningful together?í ½í¸‡ Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Oi Grandpa you don't see nothing cause you is old and your eyesight is failing init! Besides I put an MFI cupboard up a few years back does that not count?

Get someone to push down on the bonnet, then pull the release then lift it Should work unless the cable has snapped

Loving the tool boxes Leon Can't wait to see what you can do with the Jag when you get her back Keep up the great work mate

Needs spacers and lowering maybe some bigger rims Other than that it looks awesome

Looking good mate - get some pics up when she is all painted

Looking very nice now mate

Buster was looking at app radios the other day, drop him a PM

Many Happy Returns

From that pic that is the rear drivers side, yes that pipe could be replaced the other end of it can be found just to the left of the brake servo under the bonnet and I think you need to take the fuel tank out to remove it I have seen this before the way I sorted it was to neatly cut the pipe about 6" back from the damage. I took that to my local pipe shop they made me a new pipe with a standard end to match the broken part and an inline connector at the other - you need a brake line flaring tool to then sort the pipe on the car and join it all back together a garage would probably charge 2 hours labour plus parts. Hope that helps

If you are buying them from Nissan I would say - a lot!!!! Usually you do not replace all the brake pipes just the rusty bits by cutting and then adding a new bit in or replacing with braided lines, the main runs under the car with the fuel pipe can be stripped and replaced but it is a big job as the fuel tank and loads of other stuff has to come out You could see if a breaker or try Zmanalex or maybe Emperor Tuning on here see if they can supply a set from a stripped car but shipping would be fun as its a good 10' long. The ones under the bonnet should be fine again lots of stuff needs to be removed to get them out - I know I've done it Good luck with it

Who ???? Never heard of him but congrats anyway Thanks to the rest splendid job

What you mean never ending you should see Wassos V8 project that's been going on for years

Welcome and congrats on the new Zed

Good to see you back

The Zed shed is empty!!!!!! Not for long though got loads of my own stuff to do as well as a few others waiting. I'm sure Suzy will be back soon - hopefully running - for the finishing touches before MOT Keep watching

What happened to the SC and plenum then ???? You go through cars quick enough

Very nice

You can drive until it fails completely when it gets to the rivets you will damage the flywheel but that should be replaced when you do the clutch anyway. So up to you best not to rag it to much if the clutch is dying though

They can't be that sensitive, Buster takes em out with a hammer All we ever do is disconnect the battery both terminals and if you want to be extra safe turn the lights on for a few seconds - drains any residue charge - then whip em out

along

^^^ Your just jealous

Personally I'd go with GreenLandy, get a known good engine and swap it out then you are only paying for the engine and and the engine in/out and unless you are going to rebuild the engine with forged parts in which case you have/need to rebuild it generally works out cheaper to do an engine swap compared to a full rebuild. On the flip side a rebuild should mean you have an almost new engine doesn't add much to value but is good for peace of mind Good luck with it whichever way you go

Sorry to hear that mate, good luck with the rebuild/replace Not sure if there is a how to for removing engines but if you have any particular bits you want info on drop me a pm I have taken out 1 or 2 now