Keyser

The clutch sensor is on the clutch pedal so should be fine as long as the clutch is down. Check the CPS ( crank position sensor) next to the clutch as that will have been off to replace the upper oil pan and check the wires. That strikes me as the obvious one to check along with any other wires that were disconnected to do the job, flywheel could be out of line if it's an after-market one??? Good luck

Nice to see you back mate

Nice one mate Looking forwards to seeing it

That's not good, OK so a couple of problems to resolve, 1. Check tyre pressures all round, this can make the car feel unstable. 2. Check under the rear of the car for damage if you hit a curb and needed a new arm there may be other damage, one thing that often gets missed is the spring carrier I have seen them twist or snap also check the camber arm. 3. The grinding it may be as simple as rust being dislodged from the brake disk that is now stuck behind the disk against the dust plate or brake caliper - inspection required - or you may have bent something again you will need to have a good look. For the car to be all over the place after a wheel alignment the things to check are the camber bolts, they may have slipped and put the camber out also bushes I have seen a failed bush but it moved under load so was fine on the alignment rig but as soon as you pushed the car hard it would give and the alignment would be way out causing the car to feel like the back was not connected to the front! TC kicking in - Check the rear wheel speed sensor for damage, this is just to the side of the rear diff in the subframe above the toothed ally ring on the drive shaft, also check the ring for damage, Hopefully it is the camber that is throwing out the wheel speed sensor causing the TC light although to get the front wheel to lock it may be worth having the steering alignment position checked (you need a reader) as if that is out it will cause that wheel lock problem it may have been damaged or knocked out when the kerb was clipped. Good luck

Keep up the good work - Shame work gets in the way, O well we will just have to be patient.

Nice one mate Enjoy

Got my sig sorted again thanks. When I upload a picture to an album it shows in activity - is that normal and will it happen for each pic I upload??

Yayy happy now - no more hijacks lol

And Another test - with sig block?????

Yup I have to upgrade or all my old pics from builds etc will be locked out if I don't pay. strangely enough there is a lot of this type of thing around where you have to pay to get your data back they call it ransom-ware So I shall be switching for now, however I assume as said above the other sites will follow suit at some point, I don't mind as such as they provide a service and can charge I just don't like the way they went about it, and it is far to expensive! 40 dollars a year maybe but 400!! I can buy and host my own website for less! /rant

There is a guide on here for jacking points do a quick search. That one I did on axel stands (I have high ones) now I have a ramp (I'm spoilt) You can use the sill jacking points for stands just be careful, also always sensible to have a safety when on stands, it can be the wheel on it's side under the sill downside it you damage the wheel if it falls but better that than you! other than that I used BIG wooden blocks so should it fall you could still get out. SAFETY FIRST I did all under mine as part of a complete refurb took 11 months but that included new engine, SC, custom interior and a full respray so ........ Paint - mine was all sandblasted primer and then sprayed using commercial (lorry) paint I would use under-seal or rust proof for a DIY job then you only need wire brush it all down first. Also stone chip is good but put rust stop on first Just do it a bit at a time or it can be overwhelming

Love the skittles comment It is colour coded - Red Yellow Green and Black, the car was Green and Black the other "coding" was based on "What colour shall I paint thins?"

I think a lot of that will clean up with some hard work, the box section at the top needs some attention as does the W brace. Rust proofing tends to be more panels than the support bars. It is a bit of work/investment needed though, you could do like I did, strip it all out clean it up and then paint it Lot of work but it will sort the rust and looks good for the MOT inspector Good luck

Nice one Humpy Brother Blue

Sounds like you have a project

Can't say it bothers me that badly - when I looked at the pics the only thing I thought was that the paint seems to have held up quite well

Meh - I've seen it in more parts than that and still run again

Must have been hot day out! How's the BOV problem going??

Unlucky buddy Hope it was a well worn tyre or repairable ???

As I recall the stud is part of the bonnet, I know I have replaced one before a couple of years ago though, it is fixed to the bonnet but can be drilled and a piece of suitably sized threaded bar welded in to replace the snapped stud. Saves buying a whole new bonnet!

Basically yes, if it is the bearing that is clicking (and not a stone or something hitting the dust shield) then the click is not problem, like anything they wear and that is the very early stages but they will last for many miles after the clicking starts

I'm with the above - double speed can be a bulb out or low resistance LED's bit more worried about the hazard lights coming on, that's either just reverse current feed back because of the new LED's or worse, it could be they crossed a wire in the headlight's - did they have to wire the new headlights or just plug them in? Test 1 - Remove front headlight (indicators at least) test indicators - all should work correctly but may flash fast (this assumes you have done nothing to the tail lights or repeaters) If that is the case replace front bulbs with correct LED's or standard bulbs. Test 2 - Plug the stock headlights back in and test - all should work fine. Test 3 - depends on if you have tools and a volt meter etc you can start checking voltages at pins however I'm with the KISS (Keep It Simple Stupid) school .................. Was it working before? - Yes What did I change cause thats the problem Change it back until it works then work forwards from that point - at the point it fails (most likely LED's in circuit) you have found the problem. Good Luck

Drive shaft CV/UJ has worn the noise is the bearing (a larger steel ball with a hole through it) sliding up and down it's bar, this is usually not a problem as up down motion does not affect the bearing, if the noise bugs you then the simple fix is to remove the CV boot and re-grease inside - all this actually does is stop the "ball" sliding quickly up and down and clicking. Hope that helps Note - seems people get this more after lowering - probably just because of the slight angle change - in case that is relevant.