Keyser

Well it looks great and if it doesn't fit it will make a great piece to have on the mantle Keep it up mate we are with you in spirit I doubt it would be worth the cost of switching mine to CNC, no idea if you can buy a kit to do it even but it's old now so I doubt it would be worth the investment, I may do a bit of research just out of curiosity though O and it's a custom water inlet for the uprated cooling system on the Radical - but a hip flask holder might be a better use

I only have a old milling machine I have to do everything with manual inputs Managed this though Not perfect but close enough.

Ahh but its coming along

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Some great work going on there good job Keep the updates coming

Hang in there mate

I would give that a flush and see how that improves things, if no improvement I would be looking at the either the slave cylinder or the clutch itself, sounds like it is not fully disengaging. As @ZMANALEX has said they can have issues, AFAIK they do upgrades for both the DE and HR although a lot of the time the problem goes if you just swap it out for a good unit and upgrade to a braided line. More recently I have heard of master cylinders being the issue but that is less common than the slave cylinder problems.

My condolences to the family and friends. A tragic tale to hear. Though I never knew you RIP Andrew.

Awesome Looks great if a little high at the moment. Very nice mate!

O yes he is all you northerners problem now - party dates at the Zed Shed TBC!

OK just for @andybp not green and purple I have found the water inlet and outlet on the Hayabusa engine point in the opposite direction to the location of the radiator so it ends up with lots of bends and connections - I don't like that! So I thought rather than trying to tidy up the mess just attack the problem at the root - so I needed a thick circular chunk of aluminium to make an out let. I don't have one but I do have this No problem then - Cut a square - drill a hole in the centre(ish) tap it and put a bolt in then cut the head of the bolt 20 minutes in the lathe and we get - a bit longer and we have Over to the mill That allows a pipe bit of shaping and it now looks like the original But when that is welded on the pipe will come out the other side Just need to sort the inlet which is a bit harder and the distance to the expansion tank then I can set the pipe angles and length and weld it together Inlet coming soon Keyser

Or custom made tools - Just the job

Have a look at this - it had a good description shop for a better price http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/GUNSON-G4095-Eezilap-Valve-Lapper/131107565533?epid=1605668648&hash=item1e869eafdd:g:6NMAAOxyVLNS7Q7P

O and if it's just for valves and the head will fit in then yes a cheap one will do valves although you really need one with reverse as you should lap valves both directions, You can get an attachment for a cordless drill to do valves which is what I used but I have worn it out - need a new one - that's may be a better option then finish by hand - can't beat hand lapping unless you have some serious machine shop tools

But I am a home diy'r Welcome to pop by and borrow it mate, that will do ya valves My vice is proper old school made in England solid as you like - 8" don't think I have found anything I haven't been able to fit but can't remember trying a diff in there! To be fair I originally got my pillar drill for wood work and it does that OK but as you say it won't be a patch on a proper £250 one - I would like a better one but I can use the mill - I'm just being lazy as I have to change out the chuck each time

A bench vice at that sort of money should be OK - I'll measure mine later and let you know how big it is, I've not tried the rotary ones so not sure how strong they are - I hammer mine though Yer - not had a lot of luck with pillar drills, I bought a cheap(ish) one about £50 iirc and it's OK but struggles with any heavy metal jobs, I only use it for small jobs, ally and wood now - but I'm lucky as I got a drill chuck with my milling machine so not looked at getting a better one. I don't think any of them won't do valves but check the chuck to pillar as well as the chuck to table distance as that may make a cylinder head a tight fit! Good luck - I put tools on my crimbo list as well

Your just jealous that I've been out playing in the garage and your stuck indoors being a keyboard warrior

@andybp No need for that was there now

I was looking forwards to that as well

The "Shed" bit I believe

You are the font of all swage knowledge you are - and I learnt something today I know there is a tool for it I saw one in Big CC where the turbo was fitted - I don't have one and they are expensive for a single use tool, I do however have a solution I run a weld around the pipe then put it in the lathe clean it and run a loop of sand paper over it - it's fine if you have straight pipes - which I do so far Comes out like this - Its good practice for welding as well - You would be surprised how many pipes I melted holes in before I worked out how much to lift my right foot (reduce power on the TiG) just the right amount as the weld pool forms.

That's the first bucket the one we "shot" For the rest of you - Matt dropped in on Saturday - We were pressure testing a pipe I had welded (more on that later) one end did not have a "bump" in it to stop the pipes sliding off so I just put a bung in the pipe jubilee clipped it on and put about 110psi of air into the other end - Yes I created a high power spud gun It held the air fine no leaks then after about 10 seconds the bung blew out of the end and straight through the side of the bucket above - you will see a new testing bucket soon

Cheers Leon - May have dropped a hint to the wife for Christmas I'll get a pic of my new oil cooler for you soon we have upgraded that as well I took a quick pic of the new air ducts final location to keep air flowing over the turbo - In my earlier build and pre test run you may remember we setup 2 small radiators for the charge cooler, well they don't work! I think it's mostly air flow again but the charge cooler is not getting cool enough and thats not even in the summer when the ambient air temp will pe up another 10 degrees! So back to playing silly games Wood frames wedges, measure put the back on take it off etc etc Then we got the dimensions of a new bigger rad (use one medium size as opposed to two smaller) and we made a mock up - We have a fit YAYYY So Rad was ordered we made some mounts and then started on an air scoop - Getting close now That's pretty much it but we need to finish the water lines before it is completely finalised. So to get the water system finished I needed to do a bit of work on my ally welding skills (or lack off) I then found a great tutorial on-line what you do is build a box but drill and tap one side so you can put an airline connector into the box - weld it up and pump it full of compressed air - if it leaks try again if it holds air then the welds are good Took a few attempts but ........................... Now that learning should come in handy for the next bit of fabrication More Soon Keyser PS - I spent a whole week building aluminium boxes - cut the sides tack them then weld them test for leaks and repeat - I now have a pile of scrap aluminium boxes (most are not air tight ) and it cost me a 20l bottle of Pure Argon, a couple of welding tips and a few dozen filler rods, but hey we all gotta learn

That's porn that is!!!!! Stunning mate and the attention to detail is top notch Looking forwards to the video

Nice - what you using for that? I have a hydraulic punch set that cuts those holes. What is that by the way looks like an oil cooler for a Tonka toy??