Keyser

almost makes me want to sell the Zed and get a BMW Only almost

Thats scary

Surely the only option - if you want it back to standard is to fibre glass behind filler on the front, then sand and paint - really the whole bumper blending would be hard work to get a good match - but there are some very good body shops out there. If it's just the small holes you may get away with just filler but as the bumper will flex it may crack and come out Good Luck

I repalced mine NOS bottle heaters, Wather Meth and Track Cam

Lights arrived today - all fitted and working thanks

No more Does depend on what cgarger though

He's just showing off cause it took me 10 months to do mine

Thanks mate - Dan is away at the moment but when he gets back I will get him to confirm the settings - I may get a chance to plug in my lappy after work - not sure if the map is locked I haven't looked yet. Getting the uprev anyway to sort the limiter etc. We shall see

@ Sam - I sought of agree - I thought it would cause an issue but was told otherwise. The Haltech should be running closed loop but currently isn't as the wiring diagram does not cover the connections. Waiting for a response from Haltech on this. Uprev will be going on mine to remove the restrictions, turn of the O2 warning and increase the idel to 1200rpm - will let you know after that

I have 2 x AEM wide bands and gauges these feed the Haltech - the stock sensors are now removed - get a CEL light from that. It seems to be the swap from the Haltech to the stock ECU that is the issue - maybe Yes it takes her from 650rpm to 900rpm idle speed. Cheers

That's what we are trying to find out - This engine has always been a pain at idle both before and after the rebuild - not sure if it is the Cams the single mass flywheel or a combination of the 2, also the engine has done less than 500 miles so it's still "tight"? It seems to be a mapping issue but I'm not sure at which point control is switched between the OEM and the Haltech as the Haltech cannot adjust idle rpm so I assume the OEM is doing the mapping at this point? when she does idle even at 900rpm she is smooth enough it's just the off throttle so you're driving along 30 - 40mph come to a roundabout down a gear slow down then you push the clutch in come off the throttle completely and brake - now she will either drop to a very low rpm 500 ish then pick up to 900rpm and tick over happily or stall - mostly she picks up but the stalling is annoying!

I dont think that is correct , I am sure I have a couple of cars running 1000+ idle RPM. Do they have Uprev loaded? maximum adjustment (on mine) = 250% (900rpm) you can go over but it just resets to 250% - I don't have Uprev yet. I'm sure with Uprev you can put anything you like in!?

Thanks Mark Unfortunately it only allows a maximum of 900rpm we think we need 1200rpm to hold her but she drops to nearly 0rpm on throttle off - 9 times out of 10 she then pics up to 900rpm but every so often she stalls Will be looking into this further very soon.

The steering wheel had been turned once to the left before it was bolted back to the steering rack so the computer had a hissy fit and turned lights on all over the dash

Been playing on "her" again today Ever since I have had her back as soon as I pull off I get the TCS and Slip light on - now I put this down to the fact that since all the new bushes had been put on the diff is shaking the car a lot more However after I fitted my oil cooler today and I was sat stationery in the ZedShed waiting for the thermostatic oil valve to open I moved the steering wheel - TCS and slip light came on - Hmmmmmmm ..................... Investigation required ............ Hooked up my laptop via the Cipher cable and software and read the error codes apart from the disconnected O2 Sensors I was showing a C1143 - C1143 - Steering Angle Sensor Circuit Causes: - Steering Angle Sensor harness is open or shorted - Steering Angle Sensor circuit poor electrical connection - Faulty Steering Angle Sensor However as the whole car has been apart and it wasn't faulty before I thought maybe the steering wheel is actually out of line? the tolerance is + or - 3.5 degrees so again with the Cipher software as you can look at this info. I checked and mine was reading - 359.7 or almost exactly one complete anti clockwise rotation. I deduced from this that Buster had turned the wheel while I wasn't looking (it's always his fault ) Jacked her up loosened the steering column spun it 360 degrees and tightened it back up again. Cleared the fault codes and what do you know wheel alignment shows + 0.2 degrees when straight ahead (well inside tolerance) and the TCS and Slip light no longer come on ............ Sorted Just goes to show how easy things get screwed up when you have a computer sensor on everything in the car. Fitted my fire extinguisher in, re assembled the dash, Now just the idle / stall problem and an Uprev to go and I should be fairly close That's all folks .................

Yer I agree but you had to be really nice as you didn't bring a Zed

Your very welcome mate (what an array of biccys ) Keep an eye out for a repeat of the same problem but she seems fine after a reset. Who is bonkers me or the Bitch ??? Your Zed looked great as well very clean and shiny

I only asked as I am getting belt slip for the first 2 - 5 mins when I sart mine thought it was the SC (again) but it's the Alternator pulley and one change was the AMS pulleys !? Got to take the fron off mine to fit the oil cooler so may swap the pulley back, but I think its battery drain on mine.

Here is a good place to start http://my350z.com/forum/forced-inductio ... tions.html May want to change the OEM CATs from your list above Good luck with it

Ahh the old mess with the clutch while changing the plugs - gets me every time As Alex said well found hope she is running sweet again

Are you running AMS pulleys ???