Keyser

Oi no need for that!!! What "(so it was me or Bob)" actually means is I did it Bob's getting the blame I could have gone with it was Bob or I did consider " so to show you what happens when you c**k it up" but basically I spent to long trying to get a mark out in the corner and ended up with a small bit of primer showing the pic above is after it has been re-preped for paint. So Yes my bad folks I'm a man I can take it ...

You know I said you had to be really careful polishing the top coat back? Well if someone in the ZedShed (so it was me or Bob) wasn't careful enough - I feel an annex to how to repair a bumper coming on

All sorted here as well

Come on Mark - Stick some water meth in it as well he will get great results Hi Comp low boost FTW

That looks OK mate - I like Tiger Seal but you won't get it off again in a hurray I have also used the body/Number Plate tape from MotorBitz if you have one near you? comes in rolls usually green (the tape is black just the covering is green) Edit: Before anyone says anything I don't just use it because it's green

Happy Birthday

Last bit So after the lacquer (or clear coat) is well and truly dry (mine is rated at 48 Hours) we can polish it starting with the run I deliberately (O yer ) put in I started with a 1200 in my DA very carefully and with lots of water - be very careful the same as polishing edges and corners will rip down to primer in seconds! so stopping and checking often the aim is to remove all the "orange peel" the thicker swirls are the run slowly coming down. over to a 2000 grit and by had we want a flat dull surface all over This is not easy to photo with my cheapo camera in artificial light but you get the idea keep going until its all that dull look, Then out with some more toys rotary polisher and some aggressive compound then onto a DA and something a bit less aggressive again the same applies especially with the rotary watch the edges!! When it's finished it should be like glass - mine came out like this (best pic I could get) and the finished article hope it helps someone - good luck with it The End.

What he said - great pics and very but mad!

+1

That was good for this time on a Sunday

Many Happy Returns Mr G

1. glrnet+1 18th & 19th Hotel booked 17th, 18th & 19th 2. buster+1 18th & 19th Hotel booked 18th & 19th 3. Keyser +1 18th & 19th Hotel booked 17th & 18th

Part 3 - Revenge of the lacquer! So we start today with a bucket of warm soapy water - helps keep the wet and dry from clogging up I also had a photographer Buster (don't you just hate it when your being watched ) So 800 wet and dry all over the first bit was my now dry drip any tiny blemishes can be sorted with "stopper" a very fine filler Then onto paint Mixed and ready to go starting with the awkward bits Then a "mist" coat and build up the paint Finished base coat Next up the clear coat after about 20 mins Good shot of the mist you don't want to be inhaling Getting a shine The finished bumper Before after Of course just to show how badly you can balls it up and still put it right I deliberately put a couple of runs in So I'll be showing how to sort them when it's dry enough for polishing - about 48 Hours I will leave you with this That's the reflection in the newly painted bumper - not bad, not bad at all

+1 Very nice job my man

Thought he would get in he had an entry in every month Nice one mate - great pic

Whoop Whoop Thanks everyone that voted for me - Very Happy

About time you got in

Part 2 (The Return) So after sanding down with a block or if you're a flash/lazy git an air powered DA We can see some bits that need more filler Mix a drop of filler - this in on the knife so it's not much Mixed Then build it up Let it dry and sand again Repeat until smooth When happy with the filler, its time to prep for paint, the zigzag marks here are from using a coarse grit (P120) to rip down the fibre glass repairs - they can show through to top coat so they have to go - 240 - 320 - 400 sanding and we have no zigzags I needed to recreate a half round feature line in the bumper that had been filtered over - I simply found a screwdriver with the right sized shank wrapped the sand paper round it and working my way down the grades recreated the dip Onto stone chips The ones that show through white are exactly that chips or holes in the paint all the way down to the base coat - if you don't remove them the will show up in the top coat especially if you're using rattle cans as they don't lay the paint on very thick. The next 2 shots give you an idea of how much you need to remove to get these little beggars smoothed out due to the number of chip[s and blemishes in this bumper I'm switching to a high build primer to try and help get a smooth finish. Onto Primer I'm using a 2K High Build Primer - This stuff is not nice don't mess with it without the correct gear!! I used cellulose paint on my Zed and went through a few fly masks That is the minimum protection for spraying you can apparently get these that are 2K rated but opinions vary the best thing is one of these An air fed mask, Why, because they are the safest and you can pretend you're a character in Halo when your all suited up That and a pair of latex gloves (SMD gains interest ) and your good to go simply hook the mask up to your spare compressor which is outside collecting lovely clean air (yes I have a stupid amount of equipment) Primer prep Get everything ready Then you need some heat especially in this weather! I use this to really bring up the temp But gas heaters produce water so I never have it on when spraying and use this to keep the shed warm when spraying - 3KW electric) Next secure you piece in place so you can get to all of it Then clean it with either tack rags or I like panel degreaser Mix your paint These are great the mix for this primer is 4:1 Primer and Hardener and I'm using 10% thinner as high build is thick and I'm using a 1.6 nozzle on the gun I used 260ml Primer, 65ml Hardener and 35ml of fast thinner giving a total of 360ml of primer about enough for 2 good coats. And apply I can't really teach anyone how to spray there are plenty of vids around and information on technique but so much affects it, what paint, the gun, air pressure ambient temperature etc etc. The best way to learn is to do it I'm OK at it I can get a reasonable finish and I have a DA polisher for the rest The good news is this is primer and even if you get it quite badly wrong it doesn't matter as you're going to flat it all down again anyway a bad job to us just means more time sanding So to prove the point the first thing I did was make a mistake I walked up to the bumper swung the gun up and a drip of paint, that I have no idea where it came from landed straight on the bumper but I just carried on I'll get it with the flat back. So after 2 coats the bumper is now here Next instalment will be prep and colour coat

I make one cake and look at the abuse I get Nearly 8pm

My secret is out