Keyser

I did consider that, however you then gain 2 additional expenses - the skim and non standard oversize gaskets now if you add that in all of a sudden the engine will not be a cheap replacement, additionally if you do that and the bugger blows again because the block is slightly out then you have wasted all that money as you will need another set of gaskets and another skim (although by this point you probably won't be able to skim the heads again) so do the block well yes but then you may as well do the whole lot and I priced up the parts and machine shop labour well over £2000 without my labour so it now becomes cheaper to source a running engine from a breaker - but that's how we got here in the first place The object here is budget if I put it back together and it blows up we have wasted £100 (not that I want to waste it ) and our time but we need practice at engine changes on the 350 as we haven't done many But if it works it's going to be a cheap and hopefully solid engine as it was just reconditioned. Update in a few minutes just uploading the pics for your enjoyment

Sweet glad you are in If it is really tight you can adjust the bonnet catch to take some tension of, However if a bit of lubricant has sorted the problem then no bother

Good night - nice to see / meet everyone The Zed sounded awesome on the track but WoW it killed those tyres quick! I'll see if any of the pics came out when I get a mo Cheers all hope to see you at the next one

Yup but with the kit I have (an engineering steel rule )doubt I would detect it, I could put it in mine but then I'd have to swap the cams and bore it out etc etc This might seem a daft question, but out of interest, what would be an accurate way to check the block and head.? Old school - machined straightedge and feeler gauges 3 directions and feel for gaps. New technology - Probably the same as above but I'm sure I heard somewhere they can do it with a laser - don't even want to know what that costs

I recognise you in the first pic Vald

I was bending a 600mm breaker bar to loosen the head studs if anything I would say over torqued! I was rather hoping they were loose so I could blame it on that though. The biggest problem is we didn't find a problem so are we just wasting money and time putting in gaskets and bolting it all back together Nice work Chris, Would it be worth checking how true the head is where the leak occurred, if there is runout, just a couple of thou this may have caused the problem? Suppose you could always put a thicker gasket in there to lower the compression & pop it in your car, I know you keep going on about intake temps Yup but with the kit I have (an engineering steel rule )doubt I would detect it, I could put it in mine but then I'd have to swap the cams and bore it out etc etc What on earth makes you think I can actually put that pile of bolts back together?

its defo an SC pineapple you can even see where Darren has used a little bit of pink straw to hold the dipstick back

You sure its not just the passenger getting nervous? To be fair it could be any one of a number of things, brakes, drop links, ARB Bushes the list is quite long.

Get your mate to push down on the bonnet front center above the catch - pull the release as hard as you dare (don't brake the lever) while still pulling get said mate to release pressure and lift the bonnet - hopefully it will pop to the second catch. If it doesn't check the lever is pulling the center wire only - in other words make sure the shroud has not seized and you are just moving the whole wire backwards and forwards. Still no joy? Remove the drivers side wheel and the arch liner - you will see the black cable that is the bonnet release give it a gentle but firm tug - if it comes of in your hand replace the windscreen washer pipe and try the other black cable. If that don't work remove the under tray and spend 2 hours trying to get at the catch from below then remove the bonnet with an angle grinder or crow bar! Pleas note some of the advice was given with a small touch of sarcasm or was just a joke. The top 2 methods should work if the cable hasn't snapped though Good Luck

Nice one

I like that looks much better but won't the paper come off when you drive?

You sure it's rubber that you can smell? I mean that looks like the tracking needs doing or you just came in from a few laps of the track but that doesn't look like it's melting, maybe clutch or a sticky brake making the smell?

You don't "have" to if the flywheel is in good condition - what mileage? I would recommend you do though - go for a lightweight one and get some better engine response Also the cost of the new fly is less than the labour to change it so you will kick yourself if you have to pay out to do it again later!

No where on that road to meet up really - garage a bit before or after depending on which way you are going in, couple small forestry car parks but they are right down the other end (airport end) I'll be there between 6:30 and 7pm I can be hard to spot so keep an eye out

I was bending a 600mm breaker bar to loosen the head studs if anything I would say over torqued! I was rather hoping they were loose so I could blame it on that though. The biggest problem is we didn't find a problem so are we just wasting money and time putting in gaskets and bolting it all back together

Buster has rattle canned more wheels than I care to remember and they have all come out OK Should look better than flaking paint, be careful how you prep them a wire wheel is likely to put scratches and marks in that will show through new paint!

I've got 14 wheels which need to be that colour if you want to practice Errrrr let me have a think on that, I'll get back to you ........................

Those wheels are awesome colour

Do you not know you are supposed to FI any Zed with 10k or more miles on it

I like the wheels and the green and black

He was talking about his Zed Keep it clean Humpy!!!!

I'm leaning towards the steps on yours mate

Camera blur officer

Opppseee what have I started now You might not like it