Keyser

So far we have been able to side step, overcome, buy, cheat, fabricate and generally get round most little problems that arise The other great thing about making doughnuts out of steel is how long they would take to eat I will happily make you 2 doughnuts to swap for your fuel rails (you can call them boobs if you like Buster did!)

442 HP in red at the bottom of your sig and your too slow Just made me laugh

No, we were going to use Mrs Busters work iPhone as that has a DB App but her battery is flat and she left the charger at work May try it sometime when we can test it - I would like to point out I just said they could be made, I did not say they would work! (my get out clause if he doesn't get on track )

Well obviously we ran several computer models, did some complex calculations and spent a lot of time in R&D with mock ups to get a perfect design. So don't think it's just something we threw together in a couple of hours on a Saturday afternoon I forget the exact figures at the moment but it's something like Without Bungs - AHHHHHHH Turn it off my ears are bleeding!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! to With Bungs - Have you started it yet? In other words no idea it still has a nice rasp when you gas her but at 4,500rpm (Japfest Test level) it will have no problems staying below and that's all Buster was worried about.

And from me - Some one is happy to be here The rest are just random shots I took as these 2 ripped Steve's dash apart and reassembled it after completely re working the wiring loom, all seems to work including the steering wheel controls. Some nice research by Steve and a very OEM looking but improved HU. Of course he got stickered Nice work guys See you again soon Steve

So with Japfest Looming Buster has been stressing over his custom built, ridiculously loud Power Flow Zorst, mainly as he doesn't think they will let it on track. He has looked for baffles all over and cannot get any the right size (joys of a custom zorst) So last night he swapped the zorst with another member for a slightly quieter system. After about 3 hours hard work (they change the other Zed first) he found that the "new" zorst would not fit (JDM to UK GT) it won't go round the bigger diff So another 2 hours swapping it back Anyway Buster left in a foul mood (Mrs Buster can confirm) muttering about selling his track time etc etc. Saturday morning comes around and after fitting SteveM's nice new HU, Buster reminds me of a conversation we had a while ago when I said something along the lines of it not being that hard to make a set of baffles. So he challenged me prove it It's OK as Buster had got some bits of pipe to do the job Of course Buster got the pipe so it doesn't actually fit in the tail pipes So cut 'N' Shut Now they fit Find an old sheet of metal and draw circles on it (boobs according to Buster and yes he did draw the nipples!) Quick session with the plasma cutter and we have metal doughnuts (we like doughnuts ) Weld doughnut onto pipe to make a can Find an old bit of pipe smaller than the newly made can's Cut it down - lots of sparks Cut some vents into it welded into can In the car (with some black paint) Finished There you have it one set of custom bungs and a happy Buster See you on track mate :

It's is possible but it would be a lot of work and where would I keep

Your new one is @ OP I have a few pics I'll upload in a bit Steve, Great to see you again today, although you and Buster did all the Mods on yours Great Job

Mad day at the Zed Shed today - SteveM was in da house - more on that in another thread soon (I Hope) As promised last bits and bobs on today - Knock sensor (don't forget it -PITA if you do Some Gaskets (for evilscorp) followed by an inlet VVT's Zorst stud snapped Drilled Gone AC Compressor Power steering Pump Alternator Engine mounts going on and idler pulley fitted Nearly there Last bit Ready to go Bits not fitted Fuel rail - It has one damaged injector and the 'O' rings look like they are starting to perish on 2 of the injectors so I'll swap the rails out. Aux belt tensioner - The bearing has gone and it sounds terrible - will swap it out. Left overs To be fair we found this plenum bolt and 'O' ring under the lower inlet - someone dropped them and could not get them out - may put them back in just for the rattle That's it engine is ready, just need a Zed to put it in and see if it works. Hmmmm who do I know that lives near by and needs an engine for a Zed???? No can't think of anyone off hand, leave it with me I'm sure something will come up local soon Be Good, Drive Safe and thanks for reading

You missed a bit!! Looks great mate EDIT: Maybe I should have gone with "Got any after pics?"

What he said Just needs a nice coat of Green paint and it will be spot on

No mate, I have the mishimoto standard replacement rad (the do a deeper one but if makes it tight for the SC pipes) I also have the mishimoto fans and shroud. I also have an oil cooler and for normal driving even "spirited" no problems at all. I did manage to get the oil very hot at castle coombe last year playing with a GTR, it was a really hot day one and I did have to do a couple of cool down laps during the session to manage it. Engine temp was still good though. I am upgrading to twin oil coolers soon so it hopefully won't be an issue after that. The only person I know with engine temp problems is Andlid his TT was getting very hot I think he got it under control with an oversized rad and a few other mods, he was talking about the pathfinder mod but I don't know if he actually did it. He does show up from time to time so drop him a PM or I have contact with outside the forum if you can't get in touch EDIT: I do suffer from high inlet temps but that is a different issue I got the AEM water/meth injection kit and that keeps things sorted in that department.

I knew we forgot something Not many gaskets in yet, a lot go on the outside where all the pipes etc join the block. We have put in 2 new head gaskets and one of the Cam cover gaskets was not correctly fitted the first time and got damaged so that has been replaced. Sump is RTV as is the Cam chain cover I may use to much I prefer to have a bit extra let it squeeze out and then when dry run a scraper blade along the seam to clean it up. Had no leaks on the last engine I did though Only 2 things to be careful of is too much on the inside of the engine, it can block oil ways or peal of and gets into the oil pickup pipe and clean the bolt holes before you try and tighten them in. If you get a load in the hole it can snap the bolt before tight or even brake the back of the casting!

So I left it last night here I did break a bolt using the FT method of re assembly It was in here I say was as Here it is out another good bit of by eye drilling We put the second head on and played the torque 2 step then onto Cams A drop of oil Clean the old gaskets off Bolt up one side Then the other Don't forget the O seals or you will have problems!! Let the apprentices tighten it all up Cam sprockets on and aligned Primary chain on and tensioned Special tool for holding the tensioner in while you put the chains in Yes a bent paper clip Crank aligned at TDC Secondary chains on the mark Primary chain on the mark Crank marker lined up to primary chain Cleaning old gasket off again Then Matt getting some wrench time in on all the Cam chain cover bolts Twice as I forgot to put RTV on the 3 big bolt holes Cam covers back on Sump back on Starting to look like an engine again Ancils, pulleys and pipes back on tomorrow and we are ready to swap it out. I'll keep you updated

That torque wrench has been hung on the wall since Christmas (Thanks Mrs Keyser) I was blooming well gonna use it More pics uploading now

I do like your bulge sir Nice to see you again today mate

We are getting close though

As Humpy and Mr G have pointed out not quite right for me but close Also the grass needs to be a car park for the visitors

Are you referring to the bolt that holds the pulley or the pulley itself, To remove the bolt - car in gear handbrake on and loosen, if, as in this case the engine is not in the car an air gun or 2 bolts in the flywheel end of the crank with a big bar to stop it turning as you undo it. The pulley was easy this time just pulled of by hand but I have had to use a puller on them - they are not usually madly tight just a little rusty and stiff to come off.

Ahh But I'm willing to bet you will be getting nice new ARP studs for your rebuild will you not? I think they are just a torque setting in a specific order the standard head Bolts are Torque -in order - release - re torque in order - + 90 degrees in order then +90 degrees in order again - turn around 3 times and touch your nose EDIT : Nice Vid my head hurts now

Me and Buster are divided on the do you don't you fill it I do, he don't I always spill a little, he doesn't - pays ya money takes ya choice You won't loose much if your quick to fit it

Can I have a lot then ???

OK got the new Gaskets in today - Hand delivered to Matt's house by his better half, and hand delivered to me by Matt So we started on the engine this evening, To start with we warmed the Zed Shed up Cleaned the old gasket off with some cleaner and scotch bright (Well Mrs Keyser did Old school tolerance checks on the block - well in spec (assuming my nice new spirit level is actually straight ) Same checks on the head - they are spot on - not overly surprising as they were just skimmed Head bolt tolerance check - tolerance states - 0.11 I had 0.09 - 0.10 so just in Decks all clean and ready for nice new Genuine Nissan Gaskets Some old school tools so I don't damage anything with the air wrench Then play the Mad head torque routine as laid down in the service manual - O and you need one of these Only got one side done tonight so have a go at some more tomorrow night then Saturday we can play where do all the cogs go with the timing chain I'll keep ya posted

You sold them fuel rails yet :