coldel

I presume the holes and grooves reduce heat, so making the brakes more effective - very hot pads with flat discs are not very useful. I went with grooved in the end I think, not sure how 'robust' metal is with holes punched through it? I got some Black Diamond discs and pads from Cougar Store and did the job just fine.

..he also says 'might be missing a few bits'

..I thought Darren was just jesting

...all for just two extra cylinders

Pow! https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Nissan_VQ_engine#VQ20DE

I am a bit average with spanners but fitted one myself - just look up the torque settings for refitting the plenum bolts - you just take the top off, put in the plenum and refit. If you want someone to do it, ask a friendly local on here or its probably an hours work at a garage? It won't make any difference to the car without the remap as the ECU will reset itself. You can drive it fine therefore before any remap, but to make use of it, you need it remapped i.e. an uprev (circa £300 for the licence I think) RS Tuning I think in Leeds does the remap with uprev.

Welcome dude but...

The whole idea of forum superiority is laughable though. Supra owners who laugh at Celicas as being underpowered etc (not biting or being bitter honest!) just really miss the point that people buy cars for what they are and love them because of what they do for them. Yes a supra 3 litre twin turbo is going to be fast than a 2 litre turbo - but then by that reasoning, if I supercharged my VX220 am I then allowed to go on there and tell them how their outdated, heavy, straight-line bullies are so prehistoric they need putting down? Unfortunately some people get so precious about their marque - sometimes you get individuals but sometimes it emanates from an entire forum. Have to say the reason I keep posting on here and have left many other forums behind is that generally its so accepting of a plastic posh guy living in lurverly Richmond-upon-thames (but is actually from a council estate in Dagenham) without prejudice

VX Forum was pretty rem aggressive when it wanted to be - people on there were a lot of track guys so if you were not doing that you were not really involved. When I dared to say VXs were more expensive than I thought they would be I was abused to high heaven and had numerous people call me a troll etc - oh look, I bought one, I was the bigger man and didn't point that out when I bought my car. The 300x forum is pay as well for PMs - I ended up paying £20 to PM someone for a really promising car (it turned out to be a write off which he forgot to mention on the ad) so ended up £20 out of pocket without actually buying a 300zx Celia Owners Club is £20 a year also, mind you do get a membership pack of goodies, although I won't see this for another 4 months as they are so far behind on sending them out. When I asked if I could have a reduced fee and forget the membership pack I was met with a wall of silence. It is all a little 'grey' though - all these paid forums don't seem to offer anything over say this one in terms of events or extras for example (as Docwra rightly said it can't go on staff fees) I would like to see where the money is going. I have pretty heard stories from credible sources about money being used inappropriately which is sad to hear.

Do note that you can get copper core plugs for a fraction of the price which perform exactly the same as iridium - iridiums last longer but that's all Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Nooooo FFS some people - at least you escaped unscathed? Most importantly. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Well that didn't work! Guess I am going to have to take off the head unit/check all the wiring - such a PITA

Cheers, off to do it, v excited!

Hey chaps and chapettes Not very good with electricals and all that so just looking for some advice. My car already has all the leads needed for a sub and amp wired through to the boot (power, remote, ground, rcas) bought an amp/sub combo and it has the power/rem/ground wires but going into a plastic box that plugs straight in the back of the amp Am I ok to literally connect the three wires already in the boot to the three wires leading into the plastic connector box? Only reason I ask is that the power cables look different quality will that have an impact for the power?

Welcome Tom, I would imagine there are some serious petrolheads on here who would be VERY interested!

Its almost as bad a feeling as waiting for your exam results or something - bizarre isn't it, just waiting to be handed a potentially huge bill! Try owning a 20 year old car and waiting for MoT time...

Perfect!

Yeah saw that, I want to keep the vent open though in normal operation, when sat in traffic you can see the amount of heat it releases from the engine bay, I don't want to block the vent off from the inside but want to be able to cover it if we have say a full days downpour of rain. I still have the original plastic drip tray in emergency and takes just a minute to clip back on but means opening the bonnet.

If you look closely on the last pic, you can now see in through the vent and see all the red pipework and HKS blow off valve - looks quite cool - will need to fabricate a plastic cover though for when the bad weather comes back The guys are based in Emsworth near Portsmouth, if any of you southern lot need some work done they are open 7 days a week and well priced, very competent and love their cars.

A good morning spent at the South Coast Workshop with Mike and Barry - few jobs done and car is much improved! https://www.facebook.com/southcoastworkshop Turned up at 7:45am and treated to a hot cuppa and a tour around Barry's rather special GT-4. Then spent many an hour gassing with Mike about cars and life as Barry did his stuff - first up the Tein Springs: Does involve removing the whole leg of the strut - actually when we had the fronts out the bearing in the front strut tops literally fell apart! Guys had a set spare so they went on also. Whilst the car was up in the air I thought I would grab a snap of the underbelly, no rust, good signs I received a set of bonnet lifters just this week I ordered in from overseas, so the guys kindly fitted those along with removing the original insulation and drip tray from under the bonnet The noise is TREMENDOUS, the insulation must really have been muffling the BOV as its now whooshing and generally the noises are all good and plenty of theatre. Car was then dropped down and backed out the garage for 'that moment' where I check the height and decide if I had done the right thing - and it was a resounding yes from an aesthetic point of view Made a big difference to the handling, car has less roll in all directions, a flatter turn in, actually the stiffer ride just makes for a more sporty drive - love it! Also whilst looking the car over Barry confirmed that the body kit is genuine TRD Great day with the guys at the workshop - super friendly, really helpful, they certainly know their Jap cars, they had a very nice S15 Silvia in which was undergoing an RB engine conversion

Steve, you are such a tease

Kind of like it from the mid section back, front is a bit grey-plasticky - funny though the concept illustrations look like that, on the same page is a link to 'spy shots' and the actual car looks somewhat less sharp. Hmmmm 6/10 from me.

Just as an aside this should still be working...just in case http://www.350z-uk.com/topic/98637-megs-official-uk-site-discount-code/

Isnt there a limit on the chat room occupants? I would imagine it would be quite a banterous place if you let in say 30 people at once! I went in once, Keyser was in there, I have never been back since...

Yes as above browse the forum sections and you will see endless ideas on what to do - loads of 'how to ..' guides as well if you like a bit of DIY. First mod is a stubby aerial if it doesn't already have one In terms of your import, you have two options, buy a speedo converter and fit it - kits are usually around the £30 mark I think. Means removing the dash etc. Or you can ask a company to fabricate a speedo cover and just put it over your existing one so the needle still moves around at the same speed but the read out is in mph (so you might have 240kmh at the moment or something but your new read out on the dash is 160mph) which some imports I have seen have done. Converter is usually the best way and how most import companies will do it.