leonk

Pm sent

Was wondering how you got on. Remind yourself how much fun the zed is and got to Krispy Kreme tomorrow, I'll even buy you a doughnut.

So the seller was lying about taxing it? (how online if he's not the registered keeper?)

Something doesn't add up Quote If that was the case the tax disc would be sent to the registered keeper i.e him presumably. So where and in whose name is the current V5?

Ah Ha!! Glad you've found the problem and posted.

I presume this is about the pads being too tight in the calipers. Surely if this was the case they would still be solid when you released the pressure provided by the hydraulic fluid holding them tight against the discs? i.e by undoing the bleed nipple. Which IF I have read the OP right, he has done and the discs rotate.

OP says.... So if I'm reading this right, with the ignition OFF, once the pressure is released at the bleed nipples, wheels rotate freely, still with the ignition off, you pump the pedal and still all is o.k, wheels move? Next step, ignition on, engine off....... ,wheels move? ABS fault Next step, ignition on, engine on......wheels move? ABS or Servo fault. I know it's frustrating, but I don't think you have done any serious damage, just think the system needs pressure bleeding. As a long shot you could try pulling the ABS fuse or disconnecting the feed to the ABS pump and see if that works?

If all four wheels are stuck solid it can only be one of two things. 1. All the pads are too tight a fit in the caliper and are not returning, possible but unlikely as you woud have had to hammer them in to get it to lock up solid, normally they will just bind and need a bit filing off as someone has mentioned. 2. The master cylinder or the A.B.S unit is not allowing fluid to return back thus pressurising the system when you press the brake pedal. To test this jack up one corner and release (undo ) slightly the bleed nipple to relieve the pressure. Don't press the brake pedal. Try to now rotate that wheel. If it moves freely your problem lies in the master cylinder or A.B.S unit. Pressure bleeding MAY resolve the problem. Hope this helps

Just a thought, but looking at the last picture, would in not restrict the air flow into the airbox intakes?

How does £25.00 sound if you collect them? They passed the M.O.T no probblems, slight groove on the inside face of one of them. I'll even give you the pads with 50% left on them. Only changed them because I wanted grooved. Have rears as well which are like new but would want a bit more for those. You should be able to use your PMs now your post count is up. Don't really want to post tel nos and addresses on open forum.

PM'd you, only in Macclesfield.

Might have one but can't remember if it's drivers or passenger, will check Sunday

Ex Albanian Mafia?

Definitely not. The car is not a TOTAL LOSS, it would merely be repaired at the insurance company's expense. However the problem if I have read it correctly is the OP's huge excess.

I have a 55 plate uk gt coupe with original bose. Changed the battery and no code needed.

Interesting stuff for round the £300 per month. Problem was after 15 mins I was looking at cars that the zed would just cover the deposit ( 8k ) and £2,500 per month payments.

Presumably that's on a 4 year agreement?

Do you not need to make an initial payment these days then?? Pete That's the part to watch out for. The tempting low monthly payments come hand in hand with a large initial deposit or payment. So bear this in mind as part of the true cost. Most of the time you will have little or no equity left in your car. Remember the true monthly cost would be for instance 36 payments of £250 plus your initial deposit of say £2,500 so real cost is £319 per month. So so long as you look at it that you are just "renting" it for 3 years and give it back you're fine.

Only to be followed by a post....... "If only I'd seen your ad Ricey, just bought one a year older with 90k on the clock and paid 10 grand"

And last "if" to "of"

Just noticed your post. If you have no joy on the painting idea, I'm sure I've still got a facelift one I bought by mistake for my 05 car.

to the Forum. Belper eh? Not far from a few members here in Macclesfield.

Seen the 370 before but not seen you about Roger. There's a nice 55 plate black 350 that I've seen a few times recently, ( in Macclesfield ) don't know if it's anyone on here.

O.k, so been on to Apec and what a helpful tech department. Just in case else comes across this, the idea of the tapered shim is to distribute less pressure on the leading edge of the pad so as to reduce noise. So the correct fitment would be with the thinner part of the backing shim to the top of the front caliper. i.e the leading edge of the pad. As regards the wear indicators, ( metal riveted on bits) they can go either inside or outer side. My search of posts on here has suggested that inside is better as the 350 tends to wear out the inner pads first. Hope this is of some help to others using these or other pads. Edit.... So in my picture above, for the front right caliper, these would actually be the WRONG way up!