ioneabee

d dunno - but manboobs are epic

Been out and about with a lot of stop start today, then a slowish run for about 5miles, then a fuel stop, then onto my parents house (about a mile) - stopped for an hour or so Driving off the there was about 25-40mm soft play in the clutch pedal before the normal stiffness - this then dissipated over the next 5 miles back to normal. anyone know what this might be ?

it just goes to prove that - there by the grace of god we all go - and no I'm not a religeous nut

I have a spare TARDIS in my zed shed

oh well, but technically I wouldnt want to put 20k a year onto those either, so scratch that idea.... Whats the small BMW? M1? For the OP or the one that has never seen an Evora? OP, maybe a bit harsh to call him a P for not knowing what an Evora was perhaps a touch harsh, but he has already had to return his man card, so nothing left for him really :byebye:

Never seen the Evora before..................wow - that is nice

bugger - thats whats bulking my meals up, so I don't feel too hungry

so basically - I have to go faster, but man its hilly here

there's always some type of meat on the dinner plate - chicken usually, pork etc i'm ok with fizzy drinks - i never usually drink them anyway - its mainly water and cups of tea what about the kcal burn on the app ? is that correct

Another question for you guys I've been hitting the diet and exercise routine (gotta lose 2 stone) for this last week - achieved 4lbs in my 1st week food - mainly reduced portions, but breakfast = museli lunch = salad and pasta dinner = mostly unchanged, but not having chicken skins, no chips and substituting with rice and pasta main thing i've given up is biscuits and crisps i'm also going out every night on my bike and apart from a bruised arse - doing around 3 and half miles and the odd run about 1 and a half miles (knees are not holding up well though at the moment). The thing is, the app I use says on a run I use up about 160kcals but on my bike barely 60kcals - is this right - 'cos I feel just as shagged after either exercise

you won't have any problems with that Daryl Zhorno - the reason that holds (at the moment) is that the weight is unifomerly spread along all the roof and you're quite close to the support point ie the wall plate. Timber will bend a lot before breaks - so what you will be getting there is deflection, but for a short time - my suggestion to you though is DO NOT do that again - put the steel in first and then cut the struts out - alternatively get some acro struts under the ceiling below

That would be flocking awful

I think what you see there...........is a marked man

ah Will - I see your problem....................you have an iphone

here you go - this is what you need to do

looks like it might be raining with you there Will - don't be a wuss, get out there ps dry and sunny here

there we go - everyone updated http://maps.yourgmap.com/v/7_1me_350z-370z-uk.html

Think thats everyone now ? - if not pm me cheers

+1 although I've yet to see one in the flesh. Pete I have and was surprised when I didn't like it as much as I expected to. yep - I thought that too

If you want to screw extra timber over (probably not necessary) but plywood would be your best option. The longitudinal bracing (the horizontal ones) and the diagonal bracing stop the roof from racking ie domino effect - there are (should be) metal straps built into the wall and fixed over the last 3 trusses - these are the ones that stop the gable masonry falling over - all form part of the whole

I was going to berate you for your spelling then

yep - what I said, but I put it in English for you

true - but thats not what they're designed for you can keep loading it up and find out what the shear and bending stresses are for real - good luck with that though

Fink Trusses (commonly known as gang nailed trusses - thats the metal spiked plates joining the 2 bits of timber together) are designed on the whole to carry light storage and your ceiling load ie plasterboard. As Martin ^^ said it is best to spread the weyrock chipboard across the joint (although the gang nails are very strong) You'll be fine to store stuff up there, so long as it is "light" storage ie not your weight lift kit in one spot. Also its best to try and spread the loading out and to keep the heavier stuff nearer the node points - the struts and wall plate points (better closer to the wall plate) Whatever you do - DON'T remove any of the struts and or bracing hope that helps