HassanZ

Yes you got it right

I can get a Laser torque wrench for £18 through work. Are Laser tools good? Will I even need one other than just for wheel nuts? Don't want to end up buying one and end up never using the thing. What else do they come handy for (as you can see I'm not a handy man ) I was shocked this wheel place didnt have a torque wrench! They're a well known tyre place that's been operating for years!!!

I know that ruins it! My aim was to get something as close to my Brembos as possible, sticking to the grey and orange/gold theme throughout the car. I hear all sorts of stories about aftermarket nuts that I don't know if I should stick to them or get rid! I heard I could get a locking wheel nut cap? Anybody shed some light on this? If not, I'll get my friend at the body shop to match up the colour and spray the locking nuts (if it won't ruin them!)

I would get a proper job done or a carbon fibre cover. Don't do a bodge job, will ruin the look of your otherwise perfect car. I agree, carbon wouldn't suit a blade Zed...

Photos of the nuts are as follows, what do you guys think. Do they look odd or is it because I ain't used to them? The car has not been cleaned in 3 weeks so it's very dirty, I apologise

Thanks mate, yes they are aluminium. Does that make a difference? Or 85 ft lbs for those of us who dont work in NM I was would have asked that as well! Thanks The guy at the wheel place didn't have a torque wrench e just tightened it enough using a normal hand tool. I was scared the wheels may drop off when I was driving lol! Do you recommend me to purchase a torque wrench to make sure it is properly secured or do I just trust the wheel place as they are 'professionals' who do it for a living and leave it?

Hi all, I just received my aftermarket gold D1 sec wheel nuts (long ones) today. What do I torque them up to? What's the standard nut torque specs? I'm going to visit a tyre place who have offered to do them free for me Just need to find out what to torque them up to I appreciate your help guys + girls! Regards, Hassan

A lot of people tend to hid their number plates due to insurance purposes. I.e. someone mentions doing 130mph down XYZ road, or modding their car which is now running 400+ bhp without informing their insurance provider. Even though I'm not saying this is okay, but a lot of people tend to mod their cars without their insurance company knowing, then strip the bits if they got into an accident. Apparently there are a few insurance 'spy's' on this forum also, better to be safe then to be sorry....

All cars will more or less depreciate proportionately anyway, there will still be a gap in value between 'good' and 'bad' examples. Yes over time the gap in value between these cars does become smaller, but you would have used it for 2 years and it won't affect you that much. I can't see 350's depreciating rapidly any more, they have already gone through that stage. Depreciation should slow down now. It's like my 53 plate BMW 330ci M sport facelift, I only lost a few hundred over 2 years of ownership compared to potentially losing around 3k if I bought it 2/3 years earlier. I would definitely recommend you get a non-GT over a accident damaged GT. People would disagree with me on this though... You got to think about residual value in a couple of years time also.

If the car's structure/chassis was undamaged and only cosmetic items were replaced, then maybe it would be okay. But sometimes you just never know unless you work within the vehicle repair industry and have the knowledge to identify flaws, as externally the car may look immaculate again. My opinion is to just avoid it and either get a higher mileage one (I understand some of you may disagree), get a lower spec'd one to compensate for the price difference or get a JDM version as they tend to be cheaper. Just to add: Were genuine parts even used to get it back to it's original condition? Were corners cut to reduce the cost of repair? There is a possibility someone repairs it to sell on and make a profit rather than repair it to use personally, which would be done to a greater standard.

To be honest I wouldn't touch that car with a barge pole. Looking at the extent of that damage, it looks near impossible to get it back to how it was. The car will never feel the same again and problems will most likely occur in the future. Because it is a high performance car, this will be even more vital as the car will be put through greater stresses than a normal 'everyday' car. I would go for a high mileage car at that price rather than a average mileage accident repaired car. You will find it very difficult to recoup the money when you go to sell it again. No matter how good a repair would look externally, structurally the car will never be the same. These cars are built by machines which are calibrated to 0.1 of a percent, no human will be able to duplicate that...

This one is the best!!!

Good luck!! You must be excited!!! Drive home safely Congrats in advance

Ahh thanks I've always wondered how you activate auto-recirculation! I will set it all up when I finish work and get into the car, the lumpy idle can get annoying at times! I'll set the temp at 20 degrees, keep the speed on minimum and set it on auto-recirculation. Hopefully that'll sort it out I've always wondered how you keep the A/C on constantly without it beginning to irritate, now I know how to set it! Thanks guys, I will let you know how I get on When the car is started in the morning and warming up, does having the A/C on have an adverse effect on anything during the warming up period? Do you switch the A/C off every time you switch the car off or do you leave it on at all times so it switches on when you turn the ignition on?

Oh yeah I do press the AC button on the right knob, you hear a swoosh near when it first kicks in. So with regards to the speed, do I keep it on 'Auto' or on minimum (just above the auto option)? And also do I keep the direction of air on auto as well or on a specific part of the car i.e. the windscreen or face? Is it recommended to keep the setting on re-circulation or the other option? I'll try stick the temp on 16/17, see if that keeps it at a more comfortable level. I thought cold a/c air only gets blown through if you're set at below a certain temp?

always worth keeping the aircon on or using it regularly. It prevents it from seizing up, keeping the seals in good order and helps prevent mold build up always worth keeping the aircon on or using it regularly. It prevents it from seizing up, keeping the seals in good order and helps prevent mold build up Plus it idles better and stops the car almost stalling when its off I've never understood how I keep the A/C constantly switched on. Obviously I keep the A/C button pressed (orange light showing), what temperature, aim and speed to I keep it on? Whenever I leave the A/C switched on when I don't need it, the car either ends up getting too cold or too warm, I can neevr keep it on without getting irritaqted by it if you know what I mean That's the reason why I've stopped using it unless I need to, due to temp or condensation. I've always wanted to use it to smooth out the idle but cannot find the right setting to stop it irritating me by changes in temperature. Can I not leave the A/C on without having the fan activated? I hope you understand what I'm trying to explain! Many thanks, Hassan

I got mine re-gassed for free otherwise I wouldn't have got it done, I don't even use it! I reckon the £40-£60 normally charged is excessive unless you are a heavy A/C user.

I got mine re-gassed a few weeks back. As far as I remember they are near the batter cover, 2 black caps. One at the top and one facing you.

Was I the only one providing serious abbreviations?

HFCs - High Flow Cats

NSFW - Not Safe For Work IIRC - If I Remember Correctly IMHO - In My Honest Opinion

If you get that exhaust, I can supply you with the mid section if you want. PM me if you're interested.

E-mail: intouch.logistics@hotmail.co.uk VERY good service and charge a fixed price of £35 IIRC for next day guaranteed delivery. They even e-mail you to inform you the wheels have arrived at the destination (in you car you are receiving them so that won't matter).

BTL is easier to get than a residential mortgage as they take the rental income into consideration, thus being handy when having more than one mortgage to handle. Some people would get declined when applying for a second mortgage as their income is not high enough to cope with 2 mortgages at the same time. When renting out the house, I'm sure you have to take out a BTL mortgage?? It's not optional is it? Even though plenty of people still take out a residential mortgage and hide the fact they are renting it out. I'm only 23 and don't have much experience with mortgages, so I may be incorrect! I'm still in the process of learning as I go along...