flyboy

So for people with these views when you bought your presumably second hand car do you know what disks are on it? How they were treated from day one? Do you then change them out as soon as possible just in case, along with pads and tyres, change the fluid and brake pipes etc etc

Not bought from Zman Alex. As posted above used his advice on how to bed in correctly. There was no intention to use his name to support my views on these brake disks. Sorry if this was implied in any way.

To give a different point of view on these. I have the exact disks on my fronts. http://kinetixbrakes.co.uk/ They looked good and fitted with no issues. Minimal run out when checked with a DTI < 0.002". They do not have multi drilled holes like the photo but just 5 stud holes, and are ground not turned on the braking area. The drilled spots and grooves are part of the manufacturing process not added later as they are under the zinc plating. When matched with these http://www.ebay.co.u...84.m1438.l2649 they stop a lot better than the original Nissan disks after 50,000 miles. I used Zman Alexes break in procedure and they blued up nicely. They might wear out quicker than other makes and maybe I just got a good set who knows, but I am certainly happy with them and will get a set of rears once they are back in stock in a few weeks. The only thing I have noticed is that they occasionally smell a little when pushed hard but that may be because they are in their first few thousand miles or it might just be a combination of the pads and disks. However I have had no brake fade even when hot so am a happy bunny.

Ok Im on the border of those whose posted but Im in the lakes much more than Birmingham and if you Stokies are in then so am I. Varley16 - Stoke martinmac - Southern Lake District Unabashed - Northwich AK350Z - West Cumbria HEADPHONES - Manchester Ricey - Chester Greeny - Chester ChrisS - Corwen ste01 - St. Helens Matt L - Stoke Quavey - Lancaster LukeaJones - Rhyl Clarkie34 - Wigan JetSet - Chester/Deeside ray350gt4 - St helens/Rainhill Marzman - Macclesfield Brown7758 - Chorley Jenni86 - Bolton threefiftyz - Preston Bakseedaa - Preston M13KYF - Altrincham 370nel - Warrington rogerxp - Stockport |Chris| - Manchester haz65 - Leicester Beavis- Newcastle Under Lyme Dillydot82 - Preston iram - Manchester (black edition no.123) ianphampton - Hyde (Gtr Manchester) xstric9x - Wrexham RichieB - NW Cumbria cowie - West Cumbria 88291 - Chester andyh83 - Bolton Goodatcrashing - Altrincham (only during holidays) andylb - Preston Squee - Chester manphibian - Blackpool reddog6 2 st annes Sickboy123 - Bolton Philw99 - Macclesfield (Gtr Manchester) dragon - Bury Chee350 - Southport blahblah - Wrexham yellowspeedster - Colne Mr mav - Wirral bobmac - Lancaster dave/cath - Manchester Hubris - NW Cumbria JohnPaul - Liverpool TomS - Manchester Swifty - Manchester Bodeboo - Wirral JAMIE MOY - Dundee, Tayside LiamR - Lancaster the.man - preston Sharpen - Manchester Patwudz - North west Cumbria ray350gt4 - St Helens Badger - Crewe kew777 - Southport MikejUK - Bolton jhutch - Stockport Moo8774 _ Crewe. Gravy- Preston. Mike - H Runcorn. N9JAH - Stockport Diab2005 - Chester ian9r - Sandbach Ridz - Wilmslow Louisa911 - Kirkby Lonsdale Flyboy - Stafford

The original takes all sorts of standard roof bar attachments from bikes to surfboards and mine would do the same. If there is nothing on the market to take wheels on std roofbars then I am sure something could be done.

I have an original boofsquire which I am trialling at the moment. Its quite heavy in areas where the weight doesn't do anything. I am hoping to manufacture a similar lighter product here in the UK with the same load capacity. Watch this space but it could be up and running in as little as 2-3 months, with custom colours a possibility.

Thanks for the update and good work in finding the correct wire

Kits in stock ready for despatch. PM me for details.

What did you expect with a name like Flyboy!

and here! http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_detailpage&v=hhxE-8djQXM The sand wrecks gliders though.

I used to work here as a fly guide http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_detailpage&v=oi7_IXeeu80

Sorry folks please take me off the list as I have decided to go for a carbon one to match my engine cover.

All kits now posted out. Plenty more in stock.

Double checked mine and nothing stops it unfolding/folding. Lights, aircon, heated rear screen, fan on high, wipers, radio, indicator etc all on when ignition turned off. Lock doors then unlock and start immediatly. No issues. Mirrors continue to unfold with as much current drain as I could muster. I think it could be a loose connection or dodgy battery.

Does flying paragliders count?

Ouch Lots of boot floor damage surprised its not a cat c with all that TBH Hope it works out

What happens around the air intake with these ? are you making another panel to suit the gap.

Whichever is the closest in your pics, bronze I presume, I didnt know the names of the shades. Hence the ?

1) Buster - Black 2) Aus10 - Gold 3) Marzman - Blue 4) Paddy78 - Blue 5) Evilscorp - Black 6) Plummerman - Blue 7) Stanzed - Black 8) Flyboy - Sunset? 9) 10) 11) 12) 13) 14) 15)

Hi Mate, First of all I think you mean the acc on the ignition ie the accessory circuit, not the Air conditioning circuit which is what I think SteveW means. As there are no limit switches on the mirrors to give feedback on their positions the unit works on a 5 second timed cycle which gives enough time for the mirror to fold or unfold without straining the motors and gears. If you start cranking the car starter before the mirrors are unfolded you may be stealing all the juice from the battery especially if its not in the best charged condition. This could stop the mirrors from unfolding during the 5 second period the circuit is live. I don't think this happens on my car but I will check later. If it happens to all the cars with the unit fitted then its probably not suitable to be fitted to a getaway car Have you tried my suggestions about the lights etc stopping the mirror from folding/unfolding. It could all be related to a low current/voltage output from the battery. As to the manual switch I am looking for an early (03) JDM wiring diagram at the moment to see if there are any differences. There are wiring differences between cars as some people have had the switch work in reverse and have had to change over 2 wires but I have not heard of a switch not working all together once all the connections have been double checked.

Its to do with the way the BCM operates the door solenoid with no unique clean signal on the unlock command. For lock it sends a clean signal. For unlock it seems to send the same lock command as well as an unlock signal to the solenoid to tell it actually unlock not lock. There is a bit of circuitry in the solenoid module to do this. Its in the first post in this thread. Martin

PM sent

Posted recorded delivery

Next batch of modules now made and in stock

Ask a 12year old. Always works for me