Hayd350

Great, can you let me know costs when you can? 👍

@ZMANALEX

I'm looking for the top trim that sits at the top of the internal door card (Drivers side) i can't find a part number but on the parts list it does seem to suggest it comes off. Mine is all bent out of shape after a lock related problem. It's number three from the image in the top right, needs to be straight without kinks.

Or maybe the door handle itself? Is the inner door release connected to the outer mechanism via cables and link rods? I'd strip it all down and take a look but that's easier said than done when the door's closed 🤦‍♂️

Hi all, Hopefully someone can help. Drivers door wont open from the inside or outside. It's a topic that's been covered on here a few times. Mechanism makes all the right noises but still wont open. The garage I had the MOT at managed to get my door open and replaced the door latch mechanism, great, it got me through my MOT. 2 days later and I'm back to square one. I can't get in or out of my drivers door. My question is, could it be the actuator? I'm under the impression the actuator turns the signal from the fob into the mechanical motion required to release the door but does the actuator also control a manual lock opening as that doesn't open the door either? I'm running out of bits to replace and my Bill's are getting bigger. Any one any advice they can offer? Thanks in advance, Hayd.

Awesome. I'll do that. To be honest they dealt with so many seized chassis bolts on the W brace and Kidneys that i think they just reached their limit when they got to the clutch so sacked it off. Appreciate your input as always. 👍

Had my car in for some suspension bits with a view to bleeding the clutch at the same time. Mechanic suggested the blead valve was seized and didn't want to push it incase it cracked something on the slave. Suggested i have a new slave on standby just incase which seems a little extreme to me considering it's location. Is it a metal valve in a plastic housing? Either way i'm no further forward. Uprated CSC when i moved to the Extreme clutch kit about 30k miles ago.

Cheers Alex, sounds like the simple low cost solution i was after. I'll look into that, Appreciated 👍

Morning all, I don't have the technical know how to diagnose this issue so i'm reaching out to those that do. 350z HR, new clutch and slave cylinder 30k miles ago. Recently once the car has warmed up the biting point for the clutch seems raised. It's throwing me out and i'm constantly fighting to prevent stalling. Could this be a master cylinder related issue? The fact that it's absolutely fine when it's cold makes me think there's potentially a leaky seal / valve or something. I'll be honest i don't know if the fliud gets warm or wether it's a pressurised system. As i say, i'm not that technical. Any help would be appreciated, it's getting embarassing more than anything as it's maybe me look like i just don't know how to drive. Hayd.

Supercharged 720 pickup looks mega 👌

I've had my BERK hfc's for the best part of 10 years and i've never had an Mot failure.

Worth checking the top of the fuel tank too as the seals can perish over time and you get the smell in the cabin. This was the solution for my Uncle. I've got a strong smell of fuel in My 2008 when i put the hammer down. It sales through the MOT so i'm not putting it down to the HFC's, possibly the fuel sloshing and seaping through the top seal. Worth investigating.

Ahh good. I thought i was loosing it for a moment. I just had a flasback and ran with it.

Ahh well now that i've made things weird i'll see you at the motorist 😁

Might be a bit random this but have we met? I've a feeling it was yourself who called into our kitchen showroom in Ilkley many years ago because my car was outside?