rodgeevans

Yeah as long as the code reader is obd it should read the codes just fine even the bluetooth ones off ebay and an app called torque on android should do, prob cost about 10 quid and if your car uk spec will do loads of other cool things mine sadly wont as it jdm

Donf know where your based but could be a member close with a code reader like me

Is it possible to upload the template as a pdf and attach to this guide. I could do it if someone sends me the template makes it alot easier for others to make

No nismo sticker under the resin on inside not nismo im affraid

Oh right i had asked in the past and no one seemed to have seen it before or maybe not that extreme, maybe they just dont fill up the tank, i think i was even accused of doctoring the photo at one point by someone. but least it just not me. yeah to be honnest the car seems fine, its just annoying, and obviously if it was anything serious best to fix it early before the cost of repairing it goes thru the roof. and would rather work out what it is before splashing cash on more parts, tyres and paint

Lol this is actually how mine looks when full another strange one

Cheers guys, yeah the only way i can think to pin down the area of the noise is putting it on a rolling road it sounds like it coming from front N/S which is why i removed airbox and put a cone on it it to check, well i hope you guys are right and its not internals i was convinced it was the engine knocking on the strut bar due to the plenum spacer but then i removed that and the noise was still there im really puzzled.

right here is the best i could get with my phone hopefully you can hear it clear enough. So if anyone has any ideas what it is or if it nothing please let me know

Although i have been a member for a few years now i mainly sat in the background and didnt comment to much although i am logged on for atleast 8 hours a day, only recently have i started posting more and becoming more active so although this topic has been covered before i dont believe i ever gave my opinion on the subject and have only done so now as the question was raised again. The thing with opinions is they change and someone who posted on an old topic that they think something is naff might now like said something so why not get fresh opinions.

A personalised plate is as it suggests personal so who cares if others can work it out i have one on my old car which i will transfer once its winter make over is complete and i doubt many people would be able to work out what it means but it means something to me and has more meaning to as was bought as a present for me by my dad, for the record my plate is R80DRL, and i dont care if people knows what it means

where are you based i have a 350z jdm dial in the garage or someone close to you may have similar if just to test if it the dials or some other problem

Not all Japs have the tilt and auto fold function mine doesn't the only way to fold the mirrors is the switch or using one of the kits available on the forums to install this function. As far as i am awar there is also no way to tell from looking at the switches if they are jap or uk spec the only way to tell i believe is if you passenger mirror can be one touch down from driver seat if it does then i believe that means jap switches as some people put jap switches in the uk cars to get this function i believe, Welcome to the forum where in Essex are you based?

Something you may find useful Below will be listed a few tricks they will not tell you. These tricks with the proper application will improve your sound without costing you anything and will usually take very little time to implement. All proceeding steps take into account that some people do not have access to a DMM or Oscilloscope which would allow for the most accurate adjustments. In order to do this you must be able to recognize the sound of clipping and distortion. If you do not, do not attempt this. You can damage your speakers! Amp Adjustment (Multiple Amps) 1. If you have multiple amps disconnect all the RCA’s except the ones connected to the amp that is powering your front speakers. 2. Set all of your controls on your radio flat (0 bass, 0 treble, etc.). Set the high-pass crossover on the amp (if variable) to around 100 Hz (120 Hz for small speakers 4†etc.). 3. Turn the gain all the way down on your amp, turn your stereo on at this point. Your speakers should be making very minimal sound. 4. Turn your stereo to it’s maximum volume, but avoid clipping/distorting your speakers. 5. Now back the stereo’s volume to just about 1/16 – 1/8 less than max. 6. Turn the gain on your amp up at this point until you start to hear clipping/distortion and then back it down just a little, like you did the volume on your radio. 7. Now you adjust your crossover (if variable) to a lower frequency, going lower than 60 Hz is not recommended for most speakers. Keep listening for the distortion when you start to hear it turn the crossover back up a little. 8. If you have an amp for your rear speakers repeat steps 1-7 on the rear amp. Once you do this make sure you reconnect the front amp listen to see how well the amp/speakers balance adjust the rear amp gain down until you can just barely hear that there are rear speakers, this will help provide a better sound stage. 9. Now if you have a sub amp you’ll need to repeat steps 2-6 keep the other amps connected, keep in mind this is a sub amp so replace high-pass with low-pass and the recommended range is 60-80 Hz (up to 120 Hz for 8â€), once you have completed steps 2-6 adjust the volume on your stereo and see if the sounds stay balanced from high to low volume in most cases you’ll have too much or too little sub adjust the gain accordingly and try again. 10. When you have all amps running listen for a loss of bass/midbass, from when it is one amp or the other. If so please check the section on phasing when you finish your adjustments. Phasing This is a critical part of sound quality that is rarely if ever touched on in any tech sheets or installation notes. In a vehicle there are multiple angles and materials in the interior. What does this mean, this means although your speakers may be electrically in phase they may not be acoustically in phase. Crossover’s will also affect phasing between speakers especially in component sets. You can buy an expensive time alignment device but unless you are a serious competitor this may not be needed. To do the next steps you’ll need to be in a fairly quiet area and you’ll need to have your radio adjusted to a good listening level, with a very dynamic song that you are familiar with. 1. Disconnect your sub-amp signal, play your front and rear speakers together and listen closely to the music. 2. Switch your rear speaker leads (not the power but the signal leads going from the amp to the speakers themselves) electrically out of phase, meaning + to – and – to +. Listen closely to your music again. 3. If you have more mid-bass leave the wires switched if you have less switch them back. 4. Reconnect your sub-amp signal, listen closely to your music again. 5. Unplug the wires going to your sub enclosure and plug them back in electrically out of phase. Listen closely to your music to see if you have more or less mid-bass. If you have more leave it, if you have less switch it back. The above steps are suggestions and not necessarily a cure for any problem but you may find that it can make a big difference. You can change the electrical phasing on any one speaker and notice a difference good or bad, but it is typically recommended to do in pairs. From my experience you’ll see the best results when switching the phase on tweeters in a set of components that are mounted more than 6 inches apart. More or Better Sound 1. Tweeters pointed to reflect off of glass will typically show a +3db gain (remember to wire out of phase). 2. Vehicles will typically rattle audibly around 125 Hz, set your crossovers accordingly. 3. An internally cross-braced sub enclosure will yield more output than a completely airtight enclosure, do both. An airtight enclosure is less likely to distort than a leaky box. 4. Multi-texture installs tend to create more predictable sound. If it’s metal cover it with a sound deadener, if it is wood cover it with carpet or vinyl. You’ll have fewer reflections that can cancel some frequencies. 5. A properly installed and adjusted system sounds better than a higher quantity of the same equipment. 6. Most amps are not capable of a 1 Ohm mono load, if you have two 4 ohm woofers wire them stereo or with the coils in series with the amp bridged.

Yeah thats the one i think they are linked in some way

Yeah i had mine out for a while whilst picking up alloys and a small driving holiday so when fitting it back thought i would show how the bare box looks and when i came on here i saw what seemed like the dawn of a new ice age this month so i wasn't the only one wanting some bass back in there life. i incorporated the spare wheel nut into it so it holds it all secure and the box cant be removed without taking the sub out inconvienant for a quick removal but safer from theiving scum. If you want any measurements or what just ask and i will provide. oh if money is no object (which looking at your build threads i guess not) and you want best sound from your box use marine ply not mdf

Fair play if he happy with it then dont change it, i would say though i give it a couple of months before it develops the issue of not sounding as good as it used to. Unfortunately 99% of the time it is the same and it will be all in your head as you get used to it and deafer from it

Little up date as found this picture which shows how i fitted the PG sub in due to its depth over a foot and weighing in at 41lb Had a hold up on getting my wheels refurbed as my mates new lathe/diamond cutter has been delayed due to hurricane sandy so six week wait now. the rest is my do to list for crossing off once back from my holiday. Remove Spoiler and find a buyer ( ) Fit 370 side repeaters fit front bumper + side skirts Fit refurbed wheels fit lowering springs spray the beast smile

Great install guys thats gonna be loud right behind your head.

Great work guys i would check to see if the box volume is correct for the sub though. I would imagine for a standard 12 like that its going to be around 1 cu ft with the sub installed but the manual should state the desired size.

Right i have recorded a video but need to test the sound quality, what do people use to upload video?. The noise is only present when moving and i can not get the noise to occur when stationary.

ok i will try record it on the way home tonight, if not i will get the camcorder out and try

No only the one top drivers side of the plenum. But as i can only get the noise to occur whilst driving i dont know how to replicate it on the drive. I will search for the other fuel regulator, is it easy to get at.

After searching the forums and online i cannot find anything that matches my symptoms. On tick over the engine sounds fine. However when accelerating at around 2500-3000 rpm there is a knocking noise that occurs after this it is not present from what i can hear, i cannot tell if it is something loose, something knocking against something else, engine knock, standard spark knock or just flywheel chatter. i have removed the strut bar air box engine cover to see if this stopped it but no joy i have felt the fuel pressure reg for pulsing and cant say i noticed it pulsing and i have checked oil. I have fitted a plenum spacer vs stack mod ultra lightweight flywheel Exeddy clutch Up rev and always run on premium any suggestions am i worrying over nothing, do others have this with anything i have fitted.

Lesson for the future disconnect battery when playing with electrics. Cant help as mine is jap but im sure it would be quicker to look at each fuse quickly than wait for someone to post a picture or tell u which one

lol trust me x won't be going to any meets, unless you go to superficial places where everyone loves themselves you will be fine not to cross her. Don't know what i was thinking I live in Essex there is no where more superficial than Essex