Ricey

The Shell pump you used wasn't coloured black was it?

.......you are aware that your car has a MASSIVE quad zorst yes?

Great to see all the engine bits in situ mate. It looks very cool

She's looking properly mean mate. I love the wheels too. I think camera shots of the 350 after paint always show up shade differences worse that they are in the flesh to be fair. It is a bit of an odd one to have nigh on every panel sprayed apart from the doors though mate? I can understanding the roof as it's far more difficult to see the shade differences?

Good price mate. GLWTS I think the ex's car was nigh on identical in colour, age, spec and milage and sold for what you're asking for yours.

I'm trying to think of a good analogy but it's tough. Ultimately you are without doubt running a 'risk' by putting a single tank in because it simply isn't rated to deal with the heat created by combustion and compression. It's a cumulative effect though. Post combustion det is damaging but the engine usually can cope with an element of it hence the presence of a knock sensor to tweak things when it goes wrong. Can cause catastrophic mechanical failure in extreme conditions or just 'wear' that puts eroded (not sure that's really the right word in this context) particles into the oil which in turn cause further wear. In the end that will affect the longevity of the engine. More seriously it can just smash bits of the combustion chamber and piston to smithereens,......let's assume you need to be lapping on pretty hard and regularly for this to happen but it CAN happen. Thirdly you can cause pre-ignition as a result of post det.......that's where the affects of post combustion det cause pre combustion det (red hot carbon deposits, superheated spark plug etc). That's where you get the big snapola......your piston is hurtling towards an expanding flame front - el cruncho. So yes......long term post det will eventually murder the engine but it takes time for the effects to build up. That said a single tank of the wrong fuel can definitely cause some limited amount of damage or wear.

Lovely motor Only a smidge of constructive criticism but the test drive bit sounds a bit aggressive if I'm honest. Realistically who's going to give you a deposit prior to a test drive? Might just put a few bods off.

He could do with having a chat with his tool supplier as well because a £140 ratchet shouldn't really be breaking taking a fecking caliper bolt off! Full of kack. I do agree with Dan - it's an easy mistake to make but an unforgivable one when you're charging anyone any amount of money to do a professional job. Christ I left a spanner in an undertray the other day and I was mortified with myself! As said though she should have took the 500 and run.

Sandycroft just outside of Chester bud. Www.revolveautomotiveltd.com

Hand your notice in........see who he finds to replace you then.

Best Sales Technique Ever We hope to see you on the apprentice shortly

Yep, although not all knock sensors are created equal - the old 200SX one didnt work at all, the DE one is crap but the HR one seems to be decent. They work by retarding the ignition if it senses knock, if this doesnt happen then you run the risk of serious piston/valve/chamber/big end damage. The guy I bought my 135 from (mapped for V Power) said he was forced to use 95 RON for a week or so, after the 3rd tank the car just refused to rev past 6K at all - thats a PROPER knock sensor. So it's retarded meaning the spark happens later in the compression stroke meaning there's less time for hot gases to collect and the air/fuel is under less pressure for less time meaning less heat from both sources, therefore less chance of abnormally detonating? For me to write nearly 4 paragraphs about det and for Doc to give the nod of approval this is a good day all round!

Probably should mention that the knock (det) occurs then the unburned fuel and air th st is outside of the expanding flame front is met with hot gases and compression and therefore ignites abnormally causing an uneven combustion and pressure spikes. Higher Ron will withstand the heat created by the compression and hot gases better.

I am not an expert by any means but that is because the DE doesnt have the sensor to deal with lower grade fuel in a car set up for higher grade at high revs. The later engines do. Although I am not sure what that has to do with the quality of fuel across companies. Just because Shell might theoretically give better bhp than say Tesco I am not sure how that equates to Shell elongating the life of the engine? I use random places for fuel, wherever I happen to be when I need it. Shell is just 30 seconds drive from me so I usually fill up there but would have no qualms with using Tesco, BP etc. I think you mean the knock sensor and unless I'm mistaken practically all modern cars have them. The issue with 95 Ron in the DE is that it's tuned to run on the higher octane. Ignition timing, compression all that jazz. There's only so much the knock sensor can do to alter the timing to stop this from happening. The ron of the fuel simply means that it can withstand higher temperatures. Ie if you put 95 Ron in a car which is set up to use 98 then you risk detonation in the chamber (abnormal combustion outside of the flame front) which can damage the piston, cylinder, sparks etc. Detonation (which is always post combustion) can lead to preignition (pre combustion......ie piston on the upstroke) but it's far more catastrophic because the piston is then heading up towards combusting fuel/air. I stand to be corrected by a more learned creature but I've spent hours reading about this recently and it's bloody complicated!

This is very true. We are essentially all living in the nerve centre of 'zed land' someone has a problem or the engine shats out a piston through the block they end up here. We ultimately are subjected to the worst side of the zed. Put it this way I've seen several 'indestructible' derv Audi's slamming a rod through the block since I got into the trade. Only seen one zed and that was highly likely to have been run on low octane for a prolonged period of time.

Could this not be done with a boroscope if you take the plugs out. I know there is a company in Knutsford that offer this service on 911s that are prone to bore scoring? Aye come to think of it that'd be an idea. To be honest bud I just wouldn't worry......bottom line if this guy totally convinces you of his usage of the right motion lotion but hasn't owned the car for some considerable time you're never really going to have any certainty

A compression test would give some indication. Inspecting the pistons would show visual damage but your getting into stripping the engine. This is a good (albeit a bit long) article about det which is essentially all that you are interested in re the fuel. http://www.contactmagazine.com/Issue54/EngineBasics.html

Fair enough, maybe being a true dual helps with the flow? I get a bit of rasp with my Nismo, but nothing too bad once it heats up. The berks will also soot up after a few 1000 miles which will help with the rasp. You get nothing but the heavenly roar of all of heavens angels out of that thing

Perfect example.....first in the zed's for sale. Majors done, lower milage (just) and a few choice performance mods http://www.350z-uk.com/topic/94097-gunmetal-55plate-350z-gt-uprev-berks-dc-sports/

I get your point but maintenance is a separate issue altogether, there won't be a problem in this department. I know the requirements of the car and that's in the budget. So why not spend more money on a better car? Perhaps one that's already had the clutch and other bits done? For example you could prob pick a very good forum car up with all the major bits done and less milage for 7k.......chances are if it's a forum car at least you've got a chance of someone regularly running it on super for a period of time. Seriously he's not exaggerating when he says 50% of the value.

If running costs are a problem as the lads above have said you can almost guarantee it's been run on lower octane. In honesty ifs all very difficult to tell. If a car is more than 3 years old with more than one owner your always running a risk unfortunately.

Sorry guys I don't really know the lingo but I got an Aspire Nautilus Mini today with a carbon fibre doodad and an adjustable doohickey AND an adjustable phalange (which is obviously all bog standard for one of these badgers). Wow! Properly awesome vape. My last one was a home brand 25 quid job which served a purpose for a month but literally fell to bits. Tank fell apart and started leaking juice, battery karked it and I practically had to give myself a hernia to take a drag. This thing nearly blows your noggin off if you have everything cranked up to 11.

You've got/had nanolex sealant on yours which should be ready for a recoat about now

Agreed! Carbon is getting very over done. But then again it always was the mod of choice when the only option was a dash kit or wrapping. White carbon is a bit different but there's so much choice these days.

But that's just it......this one isn't because it looks like it was designed by an 8 year old and has a thumping V8 lump. It's so wrong it makes sense.