Ricey

1500 grit and pref a flat block. Obviously be very careful because if you strike you're gonna be painting again. G3 and a rotary would be best to polish back in. Spray the panel and polisher head with some water and start slow to break the compound down. If you go near the edge anywhere try and ensure the rotational direction of your polisher is going away from the panel and not up the panel (more likely to strike if you don't)

Seems a recent thing but the guy who sorts our glass in the garage told us the same thing. His private work is rocketing

That poor TTRS! Wrapping is such a hard skill. I do a bit but I make sure I'm well and truly in my depth!

But if they ask, you do have to tell them, you can't lie. And here in lies the problem. Insurance companies have no moral right to ask but they CAN ask almost anything they like. Answer untruthfully and you've committed fraud.

Why anyone declares them is beyond me. Not a conviction and not available in any way to an insurance company through the databases. Personally I think they're being proper out of order asking about it as the point of the course is that is specifically aims to educate rather than penalise you. Insurance companies suck balls.

Ideally you want that flexible plastic filler. Even that can experience some shrinkage though.

Very impressive job mate

Stunning mate. Simply stunning

Possibly a buckled cell or something. Guess you'll find out if it cures itself!

Nothing wrong with using filler but rust is a bugger to cure in all honesty. You'll think it's all out but it can worm it's way back in. The guy is quite right though welding could very likely distort the panel. Really speaking (and this is extreme) to totally cure it and not risk distortion you want a new quarter putting in but that's far far to expensive for what you're trying to remedy.

That bud will make your life a lot easier and you get some experience working with the guns etc

To do GLRNET (Graham's) plenum we followed this process (however we are a bodyshop and use 2k paints through HVLP spray guns): - sandblast - etch - high build primer - wet flat - base - clear - flat/polish as required It's a bloody tricky job to do with cans. I'd be tempted to advise unless you're getting it done professionally use something like the VHT as recommended above. You'll be fighting reactions, incompatible paints, at least 4 different types of rattle can at about a tenner a chuck (etch, primer, base, clear) trying to do a 'normal' paint job.

Yes mate. If you're ever painting bare metal you need to etch prime it first so the paint will adhere. If you can bud try and avoid using 1k rattle cans..........if for no better reason than to protect me from the highly unlikely even that at one point in a decades time you might ask me to re-paint it and I'll be forced to kill you if it's got 1k paint on it!

If you've got the money bud (as you seem a little shy of the more obscure sockets!) get this from hellfrauds......covers most things that you'll need (aside from a torque wrench) and has a lifetime guarantee Especially if you fancy having a crack at other jobs. http://www.halfords.com/motoring-travel/tools-diy/socket-sets/halfords-advanced-professional-200-piece-socket-and-ratchet-spanner-set

If you want it chrome you might as well have it polished. Chrome paints unless you hydro chrome like DarrenB did look a bit naff. Also when you get your torque wrench make sure you test it first. I thankfully did when I did mine years back and it snapped the bolt when set to the correct torque. It was B&Q crap like but you never can be too careful!

This stinks of budget nagasakiditchfinder brand!

Linky broken?

Bacteria in the aircon system can make that smell. You need to run an aircon cleaning agent through it or better still have you friendly local vlaeter run an Aromatek machine through the system

We might be tempted to part with these.......no fading on these badgers (2k clearcoat)

Turning the ESP off via the switch believe it or not doesn't fully turn it off. Can't remember how you fully turn it off ABS will still be on regardless of the ESP button being pressed

^ this is the absolute easiest and quickest way to eradicate any chance of it being the ABS or traction pal. Is the speed sensor running off a toothed ring on the hub Keyser or is it one of those metal rings round the bearing?

Swirls are a cumulative effect. The untrained eye might not say 'ooo look at all those microscratches on your car' but they might say 'ooo your car is duller than hell.....what a nail it must be'

Kind of where I was going. Wonder if they've clipped the wheels speed sensor when doing the brakes.

Unfortunately they are not interchangeable. O2 sensors are a right barrel of laughs to change as well never mind 2 of them.....you can guarantee one of the buggers will strip just to make you regret that 'quick test'

Was it doing it before the disc and pad change?