Ricey

And Welcome

you bumder

I think not baby puppy! It can be changed to 'The god of thunder' and nothing else!

I paid 25 quid off eBay. You can get oem ones for a bit more and updated for a lot more I guess the benefit to your car is the arb is attached properly with no play in it. Could eradicate some squeaking and might tighten up the handling The photos were taken on my phone ....one handed whilst trying not to to break anything, cover the phone in all manner it of dirt it cut through the brake lines!

Almost unbelievably I....Ricey.........King of the Spods........is writing a guide! In an attempt to cure the knocking noise from the back I replaced the droplinks - doesn't seem to have worked but the links themselves had loads of play in them so they were well worth replacing. A fair few people ask how to do this job and I've never found a really clear guide for the non-mechy types among us so I thought I'd write it up. This is a real spods guide so it even includes how to jack the car up! People will tell you in this is a 10 minute job because its only 4 bolts.........they lie. Its maybe a 30 min job on a brand new car......with a ramp. On a car thats covered 34k it took me around 1 1/2 hours and the following tools. - Breaker bar - 14mm socket - 17mm socket (but I think that might just be for the new links I bought - nissan replacements should remain 14ml) - 14mm spanner - preferably ratchet if you've got one - Hellfrauds are doing the pro range set for £39.99 at the mo (half price) http://www.halfords.com/webapp/wcs/stor ... e=shopping - Penetrating spray - Trolly jack - Axle stands (unless you fancy poking Death with a stick to see what he does) - Dremel with metal cutting disc or an angle grinder depending on the condition of the bolts (not as scary as it sounds) - Hammer So firstly you need to jack up the car - here are the jacking points. You'll see a little sort of bump thingy on the diff that the jacking point at the rear Uploaded with ImageShack.us Then stick your axle stand under something solid and safe if you can't get it under the actual stand points. Take the wheel off for better access. This is what the ARB link looks like in situ Its got quite a few obstructions in the way but its really important to get your breaker bar nice and square when trying to take the bolt off - otherwise you end up applying unbalanced pressure and can end up rounding the nut off. Once you've 'cracked' the nut loose you can move on to a normal ratchet to loosen the bolt whilst using a spanner to hold the other bolt on the other side of the bracket. Once removed it can be pulled out or tapped out with a hammer if loose enough If you end up with a ceased bolt or you end up rounding one off (they might be so rusted that this happens anyway) then your going to need a decent power Dremel preferably with a flexi head attachment (as its an awkward space to get at) or an angle grinder. Then grind the mother off! This is the first bolt I've ever ground/cut off so I was a little nervous......be especially careful not to catch the brake lines as your pulling the cutting implement back out! Made a bit of a pigs ear of it but ultimately the job got done! Then put the new one in place - I found I needed to put the top bolt in first then jam the breaker bar inbetween the ARB and something soild (not sure what its called but you'll work it out), then put my weight on it to pull it down to allow the link to fit the bottom bolt. Spanner to hold the inner nut again and socket to tighten up the outer nut on the other side of the bracket. New link in place Repeat on the other side (passenger side) - only difference is a little bracket with an arm coming off it (no idea what it is, does or is called!). Its very simple and looks like this And this when its in place - it really cases no bother though So there you have it - my first guide! Be gentle if I've detailed any bad practice in there - suggestions as to how it could be done better are always welcome.

Scooby and Evo both come with a pot of KY jelly to lubricate your orifice prior to penetration - they do 2 miles to the gallon, require servicing very 3 and a half minutes, eat tyres for breakfast and from what I've seen are not a particularly pleasant place to be. You might as well keep the Zed and buy a £300 run around if your going to do that (or get a 350GT Skyline for the 4 seats) If your going sensibleish your only option is the hot hatches I reckon. If your really looking to save money as well as having extra space then your prob looking at one of the diesel warm hatches - you really can save a fair old mint with them. I'm with Biscuit with the Alfa - not perhaps the one he's on about if you want to save some money but maybe the 2.4 JTD - supposed to be a very good car and Alfa reliability has improved loads in recent years.

I've seen it happen a few times - defective tyre on both occasions.

I'd hazard a guess that even if you found a beer importer you wouldn't be buying in a large enough quantity to make it worth their while. I had a good google searchy and didn't reveal a single bottle for sale.............perhaps you should find another beer and use it to toast the death of Blanc

Have you tried moving your polo's? That might free up the space you need

Hugh......you is one sick mo' fo'

About as aesthetically appealing as a tramps rotting,, unwashed c*@k

Its a very tastefully modded car. Spoilers are fairly easy to get hold of and not too expensive really.

Space doesn't weight anything though - its just fresh air There's no way the 8 engine is only 40kg lighter than the Zeds...........it weighs about as much as a hamsters sack, the pathetic, hateful little revvy piece of crap. Sometimes you can just feel that a car is more substantial - the Zed feels a much more substantial car than the 8 - its as if you wear the Zed and drive an 8.

A cheap cover can do more damage than leaving it open to the elements to be honest mate.

He was probably expecting the rest of the Green Street Elite to appear out of a side street and fill him in!

Me want one

you could attach an actual horse to the front of the car.....keeps insurance and emissions lower

Loads of pics of the forensics being released by the cops now - looks like he's a gonner..........I hope they saved his beard and are going to use it to develop new flame retardant technology if it survived that mess!

Isn't the rear strut brace just basically a box of steel? Even the strut brace in the engine weighs a tonne.

Its the only situation where the use of a broken glass to inflict injury is acceptable.......when some dirty evil thieving little scrote needs to be neutered to prevent him from spawning any offspring who will carry his cretinious genes.

In fairness I thought it was a load of bull when Carla told me that they identified him from his 'facial hair'.............after he was apparently burned to death What a cockspanner

I'm not too sure what to make of that.........according to your posts thus far you've been throwing your rear around in a wet ring that wasn't too hairy! ........I'm saying nothing!

This situation is exactly why public knobglassing's should be brought back (well if they ever existed in the first place)

Bowchikkawowow......here she blows - apparently Randomfry couldn't be arsed getting his camera out! viewtopic.php?f=56&t=39608&hilit=rota

That a forum car I'm sure of it..........hang fire a min and I'll do some scratching in the searchy